I haven't asked a stupid question in a while, so here goes. Are Chevy (negative ground) and GMC (positive ground) generators interchangable? In other words, if I needed a replacement 12v generator for my truck and found a GMC 12v generator, would it work in my truck? Oh and BTW Zig, before I'd stick a Jimmy gennie in my truck, I'd convert it to a 12v Chevy Alternator
There you go, brother! Funny you should ask this~ I have been putting my hands all OVER my G today. I was thinking "down the road". Down the road I want to turn it to twelve volts. (SOON). I'd like to keep the generator look, but don't they make 12 volt generators(?) that replace the 6 volt? (same look, different function(?)) In other words~ I want to get my truck tuned to 12 volts. I thought/think they make a 12 volt "thingy" that will work. (?) I had no idea that there was a difference in grounds! positive/negative??? I thought 6 was one way, 12 was another~ ? Help? The posts on jumping a 6 volt made me "jump" to changing to 12. BTW!!! BRIAN~ CHANGE ALL YOUR BRAKE LINES BEFORE YOU DO TOO MUCH CRUISING!!! I took all mine off my frame, and as I was holding the part that went under the radiator, a small fountain appeared. It seems as though the line had a pinhole leak that became noticeable in my hand. Thanks for any and all help~ and yes, I'll search the files to see about 6 to 12 conversions. My time tomorrow is spoken for. I'll be painting a frame and cab under!
I'm pretty sure you can convert from pos ground to neg. You have to 'flash' the field of the generator briefly to produce a residual magnetism of the desired polarity in the field. Of course, I don't know the details..... BTW, the later Chevys, circa 1955, came with 12 volt gens.
The 235 engines 55-62 should have a direct 12v bolt on, same with regulator. The pulleys narrow to wide or vice-versa are also interchangeable. In fact the generator and alternator pulleys interchange so it's no problem to put a wide belt pulley on an alternator for ones choosing to go that route.
generating MORE interest Hello all, Speaking of generators, strongly consider an electronic voltage regulator vs the points-type. Higher charging rate at idle, brighter headlights, etc. Some outfits will even replace the points-type innards in a period-correct donor regulator housing, for that stock look. I have a fellow here in town who does voltage regulator conversions, as well as converting points-type ignitions to electronic for those obscure marques that the big outfits (Pertronix) don't touch. Keep in mind though, the generators of the day were not capable of high-current output (my Hudson's delivers 28 whopping amps....) Dad converts many of his restorations to electronic ignition and voltage regulator, as it can't be seen, but it improves driveability. Mike, Wilton, NH
Converting Ground +To - Yes , the parts are all the same , remember to the swap the leads at the ignition coil , reverse the battery and then take a jumper wire from the posative battery post and barely touch it to the ganerator's armature terminal ~ just brush it , you'll see a spark . DON'T go arc welding ! that'll fry the contact points in the voltage regulator... Do this with the engine off , once in a blue moon it won't take (due to residual magnetism in the generator) and you'll have to polarize it with the engine running above idle . Some years back , I bought an old panel truck that the DPO (kid) had installed the battery backwards in and it got reverse polarity and didn't want to change back ~ I polarized it and a few days later , it reversed polarity all by itself , went throught this for a month or so before it settled down . An electronic voltage regulator would be good but I only know of them for 'A' circuit generators , not 'B' circuit like our trucks use.... Oh yeah ~ 'A' circuit is when you _ground_ the field to make it charge and 'B' circuit is when you _energize_ the field to make it charge....
Zig... I have got all my brake lines changed!!! Now I just am needing to look up some info on how the master cylinder hooks up to the brake pedal assembly. As well as how the brake line coming directly out of the master cylinder itself. My old system wasn't connected to the brake pedal, and the lines coming out of the master cylinder, well I don't think how they had it was correct.
I think it smart to upgrade all electronics including that which fires the engine. With gas so expensive a hot fire tends to be more fuel efficent and with the road crowding and road speeds today as large and bright brake lights as possible is needed.
This site has some "interesting GMC facts" specifically see note 9 http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/page0375.html try this link it usually helps if i actually post the link with the comment.
there we go try this link out http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/page0375.html i think i edited the other post, but here it is for sure now... hopefully
Oh dear I will have to keep going back to that site over next few days, keep nodding off after only a couple of mins when i start reading the 'interesting facts'
I know the feeling, brit! After achieving total bliss, I start nodding off too! In the old days, I'd probably smoke a cigarette first...
yeah its one of those. like the front of jim carters.... you can read it to put you to sleep, or filter through the info and find something worth while! definitly some interesting different info... but just don't read it all at once
THANX ! I just came back to look and LO ! the link is there in _both_ posts..... Anyways , he forgot to mention that those most wonderous L O N G motors were cast in high nickle content cast iron... Also , they were heavily pimped in the rust belt as having " rustless " frames yeah , right .
sounds like classic "long motor envy" as described in Interesting Fact #3, #6, and probably should have also been noted in #16 for good measuer (pun intended)...
