Hey there, I am new to the Chevy Duty forum but have been on this site many times in the past. I have a few questions about my engine... It is a 216 and I am debating whether to keep it in the truck or swap it out with a 235. The vehicle is a 6400 Chevy flat bed 1.5-2 ton. and also, I heard through "the grape vine" is that the cylinder walls are thinner on the back cylinder. And if it overheats the block can crack. (just a rumor I heard a while back wondering if its true.) I will be asking more questions later on! and thanks in advanced!
One thing to remember about this forum is that you will get all kinds of advice, but that it is just that, advice. Almost all the time you will get pretty darn good advice. It has saved my bacon many times. I hope I can give back as good as I get. As far as the swap, the 216 in the larger trucks is good if you are trying to keep it as close to original as you can. It was a good engine, but through the years they improved the 235, making a major improvement in 1953 when they went to "full pressure oiling" instead of "splash oiling" of the mains. If you are going to put in a 235, try to go to the models at least 1955 or newer. Between 55 and 58 these engines should drop right in with no mods. They bolt up to your clutch housing and motor mounts. Models after '58 require some front motor mount mods and you can find info on this site and on Stovebolt about ways to make the changes. You also need to modify the water pump/fan assembly because the newer engines used a longer pump shaft that will interfere with the radiator. The "short shaft" mod is done by several companies for around $100.00 - $125.00. I have a 1949 4408 1 1/2 Ton flatbed. The truck originally came with a 216 but someone replaced it with a '52 235. When I bought it the engine was blown, so I replaced it with a '62 235. I left it at 6 Volts with a generator because I want the "old truck" feel. I had to change the coil and starter to keep it 6 volts, but everything else (except the front motor mount) dropped right in to my old clutch housing, tranny, etc. That's my advice, but I am sure you will find lots of others here willing to help out or correct anything I have incorrectly stated. Good luck with you project. I am having a blast with my project.
You'll crack the head long before the cylinder block goes away . Unless it's been bored to like .060" over then you're on borrowed time anyway so DON'T leave town in it ! . The 235 fits fairly easily , you'll need to swap the front engine mount plate off your old 216 onto the later model 235 (be smart like the man said and get a '55 or newer one as they have minor but _important_ enginerering changes). _You_ can hammer the water pump drive flange back and then simply cut off the excess shaft . NAPA and ORielly's aut parts sell the short shaft 235 water pump, look in thier " buyer's guide " with your old 235 pump in hand as there's two different designs for how it attaches to the engine . Read all this in excruciating detail over on the StoveBolt Page site then come on back here for the simple way to keep your truck running sweetly . Best place to find a good used 235 is over on the Task Force pages as the hot rodders pull them out and then they just sit ~ for years . you can look in the archives and find a three year old ad and prolly buy the entire engine for under $300.00 , I'd _never_ pay over $150.00 for a complete , fan to clutch , running when removed , 235 engine , maybe up to $500.00 if it had receipts for over $1,000.00 worth of rebuild work ~ they're that common and NO ONE wants them . BTW : if the 216 runs and you're not planning on any freeway jaunts , just service it to the Nth degree and it'll be fine for another 30 years... -Nate
Thank you for the information, this is going to help me out a lot. I do have another question, if I swap out the 216 with a 305 or 350 v8 i will have to change the bell housing right? Thanks in advanced
RE: V-ate swap Thanks once again! Would it be easier on the engine if I swap out the ring and pinion gear because of the "granny low" gears?
RE: V-ate & Compound Low Not unless you plan on using it a lot , typically low gear is only used for moving the truck along at a walking pace (like no driver in cab whilst you're tossing hay bales in the bed etc.) or pulling away from a loading dock ramp with a full load on . It's just to get the truck moving is all . It is _NEVER_ used in traffic unless you're in San Fransico . -Nate
RE: V-ate & Compound Low [updated:LAST EDITED ON Mar-29-06 AT 02:27 PM (CST)]thank you nate, and what ratio should I go with for a 1.5-2 ton?? 'Andrew'
RE: Final [updated:LAST EDITED ON Mar-30-06 AT 01:25 PM (CST) by Robert (admin)]It depends on your use , I have and like , 3.55 . Lots of folks use the 3.72 from a later model ('67 ~ '72) G-3500 series van with automatic as the pumpkin is a bolt up deal . CHECK the bolt pattern and axle splines BEFORE you pay your $$ ! . -Nate
RE: Final Not that I necessarily recommend it, or know where you might get one, but my 1.5 Ton 4408 has a Browny in it. That gives me an additional .83 ratio on the bottom (called Under), a 1.00 in the middle (called Direct), and a 1.26 on top (called Over). That's an auxillary tranny that combines with the factory 4-speed. It is great for big loads or if you need a bit more highway speed. The Browny is a Spicer M-41.
RE:Brownie Box ! HOLY CRAP ! a three speed Brownie ?! wow , that's great . Do you have a " Twin Stick " setup to then ? . or is the Brownie Box vacuum operated ? . -Nate
RE:Brownie Box ! It's a twin stick. The Browny Model 41 M-1 is mounted about 4 feet behind the main box with a modified propeller shaft arrangement. The rear end is a single speed duals, of course. The second shifter sits to the left of the main stick and back almost to the seat. The shifter mounts to the left side of the main box and there are two shift control rods that run about 5 feet back to the Browny. When I first got the truck the shift linkage was corroded tight but the Browny was in Direct. I uncoupled everything and hit it real good with Liquid Wrench and used a ball peen hammer to gently work the slides free, then cleaned it up and lubed it. It turns out both the main box and the Browny are in real good condition and shift nicely. I, on the other hand, will need some more practice once I get the truck running on the road. Under normal use I can just leave it in Direct and use the main box. I am curious to see how much I really see in 4th-Over compared to 4th-Direct. By the way, I did get some archival info from the historial at Transmission Technologies Corp. on this series of Browny boxes. He was even able to supply me with the "factory" instructions for mounting the Browny as well as parts list and maintenance literature. It is interesting to see all the references to companies that had a hand in this unit... Watson Transmissions, Spicer Corp, Dana.. all part of how one company bought out another and another, etc. Evidently the install was a whole kit because I have instructions on installing the mounting crossmembers, the control/shift unit, etc. I can burn a copy if somebody else has this setup.
Overdrive Auxiliary I'm doing some research on these auxiliary overdrive units, have you got any photos ?!?
I have a 49 - 3100 that was bought as a service station truck. About 30 years ago, Ralph ( prev owner) had bad freeze plug troubles with the engine. He put a 261 from a 57 one ton in it. Works beautiful and will pull the whole house behind it. Jim
