OK guys I need some advice again. I replaced my entire (Huck) brake system including new lines. I had a few leaks to attend to, I guess I hadn't read the "tight as you can and another 1/4 turn" string...Anyway I can't seem to get the 2 rear line connector blocks sealed tight to the back of the rear wheel cylinders. I have put them together twice, replacing the copper washers and the second time they held for a few days, but then started a very minor weep again. I intend to take them off (again), use new washers and reef as hard as I can, short of using a break bar. Any advice? Does anyone think that by doubling the washers it might seal any better? Thanks, Larry
Stop!!!!!!! DONT try and tighten those bolts with anything else other than a wrench/spanner, take them off and check all the surfaces that make the seal, bolts under the hex where they rub against the washer, check all is flat and no scratches, same with all the other surfaces, look for scratches as thats the easiest way for them to leak, if you overtighten the bolts they will stretch or crack and will never seal or even worse, fail when driving, they are a weak bolt anyway due to the centre bored out and cross axial holes so be cautious when tightening, make sure the head of the bolt is true to the thread too and the thread is not damaged. Brakes are THE most important part of any vehicle, dont do anything you are unsure of with them, and dont walk away from working on them with any doubts in your head. It aint worth it!
What Neil Said ! Many yeard ago I had an old Dodge B-1-B pickup and the banjo bolts holding the fittings to the rear wheels gave me fits with a tiny dribble... Everythings got to be just so or they won't seal 100 % . _some_ banjo fittings are directional and so if you install them 180° out , they'll leak .
Huck Brakes Larry ; Didja toss out the old brakes yet ? . I need the parking brake cables if they're any good....
Cables Nate - It looked like the DPO started to replace the rear end, and fortunately for me (and not Nate) all he got to was hack sawing both of the ebrake cables and disassembling one rear wheel assembly, leaving me one good road map to follow for the rebuild. Sorry. Larry
brake leak Sometimes copper washers leak if you tighten them to tight. Make sure everything is clean and use new washers. Tighten the bolts being careful not to spin the washers,when you think they are snug check for leaks. if it leaks tighten just a little more. Repeat this until no leak. This usually works. Good luck.
Brake Blocks Mine did the same thing the only thing that finally worked was new blocks from Jim Carter. I think the brass threads in the bottom of the block are the weak spot.
I used the old blocks and the old copper washers and they sealed just fine. The banjo bolt at the master is the one that's giving me fits. Can't seem to find a replacement. It's pretty rotten and weeps ever so little. The two extra ones I have don't look much better, either. Obsolete has one for a 3/4 and 1 ton. Tech help there not really any good so far. All sources I see show same master for 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton. Gonna order it anyway and see if it is the real deal or not. Andy
Finally Andy - I got the the one new 3 way block I needed from Obs Chevy and it worked great. I (brass) wire brushed the old rear blocks seats and installed new washers at the back plate and line connection fittings and tightened up very snug and am finally drip free. Thanks to all. Larry
