Hey guys, Checked the archive with no avail so I need a little advice / help. I'm installing a 54 front suspension in my 49 to get the bendix brakes and I find the steering arm has a tapered hole for the new style tie rod type ends. I have the old 53 drag link with the tapered ends on it which fits the steering arm. My dilema is I have a 49 pitman arm with a straight hole that is not tapered and undersized for the tapered type ends. So do I drill the pitman arm to size and ignore the taper or can I or should I get a 54 pitman arm. If so will it fit the 49 steering box? I haven't checked yet (one problem at a time) but I want to upgrade to the new type tie rod ends for the tie rod also and wonder if I will have the same taper to straight hole problem with the tie rod. I read a couple of tech articles on the upgrade but none mentioned the taper problem.
Craig, take it to your local machinist and have them ream it out. A good machinist can taper it just right for you!
Hold it... I have a 52 G that I am using a 54 C front end on. ...maybe... If I do, there won't be any problems because I took my 52 G arm off and stuck the 54 C arm _right_ on. So it's 54 from the steering box on. I like the 54's drag link better than the 52 G's anyway. Hope this gives you an option.
I now have tapered reams but for years I had the tapered ends of various sizes from old worn out tie rods and ball joints, just the end which was removed from the socket. You can then heat the area around the existing hole yellow hot to the metals "plastic stage" and drive in the correct size end in with a BFH. Take care not to drive in too far because it will make the hole too large; just till all the threads show. Make sure to drive in from the correct direction, have good support on the opposite side, and let cool slowly to prevent brittleness. This is a common practice in machine work known as "swageing".
To Machine or Not to Machine Thanks guys, three options - if only I could do that swaging thing I would but I'm not that skilled. I think I'll do as Kens50PU suggests and see if I can find a local machine shop. I should have thought of that in the first place but being a dunce I overlook the obvious. It will be easier than trying to find the later 54 pitman arm or melting my vise trying that swaging thing. Thnaks for the assist. I now have direction - off to the phone book to look for a machinist here in the hinterlands.
Swageing The cooling process is improved by slowing it down more , use a bucket of ashes from the BBQ or fireplace , push the hot part right on in and walk away , leave it for hours . The same when you've welded cast iron ~ the slower it cools , the better strength it'll have later .
Swageing Man I love this forum... I learn all kinds of neat and useful stuff. If I can't find a local machinist with a good reamer I'll try this. One technical question - is yellow hot just before cherry red?
Learning Curve Thanks Nate for the Red versus Yellow. At least I know the difference now. I found a local machinist yesterday - $60 an hour - ouch! He's supposed to be good with car stuff though. We'll see.
Lots of info guys but I do believe our Host has all the correct parts and the tech support to solve you problem. Might give them a call and see what they have to offer.
Oh Craig....... If you need one, I have an extra '54 Pitman arm in my garage. This one will be easy to find and get...it's still attached to the steering box. Sorry I didn't chime in sooner, but I have been on vacation (again). Andy
You're On Andy, only if you let me pay for the part and shipping this time! I assume it would be cheaper than the $60 minimum machinist charge. Let me now and I'll get the check in the mail asap.
Way to go Andy! Craig~ You'll be "Good to Go"! Glad you can save some $$$! Andy is a good guy~ Kinda like Ken and all the others!
Pitman arm Okay Craig, Been away on vacation. Just back. I will send you a PM with price and all. Andy
Swell Folks Chiro, Zig, Brit 50, Nate... you guys and the rest of the forum folks are just the greatest. Taking time time to help the newbies and being a source for parts and information is so helpful to me and others that there really aren't enough good things to say about the forum and you guys that make it all such a success. Of course kudos go to our host for sponsoring the forum to start with. I hope to be able to help along the way when I can from some of the things I've learned here. THANKS TO ALL
Gawrsh ~ Yes Craig ; You'll soon be telling others how to make it right.... If you're not doing that allready !
If I can Help Thanks Nate but I think I'll leave the heavy lifting to you experts. I only pass along the little stuff that I think will help out others like me that haven't been trucking as long as you folks. Speaking of little things I found that steering box seal at NAPA Online for $8.00 versus the $24 the GM ealer wanted. P/N NOS11055. I haven't got one yet to see if it's the real deal but soon I hope.
Steering Box Oil Seal Yes , it's the same and will fit *but* the GM seal isn't just any old seal in a cute box ~ it's actually better and worth the extra co$t IMO . Remember to use a socket or pipe to install the seal so it's doesn't flex or bend .
