hello agin. Sorry but if i drive with the truck i have trouble I can start the cold engine without trouble. I don't need the choke because the weather is very good. If i drove 10 mi and the engine is warm and i try to start the engine she starts very bad. After a while (engine is cold) she starts again without trouble. Whats the problem ? the Carb ? I read the manual right now but i can't find my mistake. Volker
Check out the exhaust heater. It is the little weight that sticks out under the intake. It heats up the intake mixture to get a better running engine....alledgedly. These things tend to rust and sometimes stick open or partially open...like on the 53 I am building. Caused some serious vapor lock. Oil the hell out of it if it is not swinging easily, and make sure the spring is working.
exhaust heater Hi ol'chebby, this parts works fine. i rebuild that and you are right it was a lot of rust on it. Another ideas?.
windshield frame and instrument panel enclosed new pics. the windshield frame chromed and on it without cracks
Wow ! That looks really nice Volker ! my old '46 never looked that good when I had it . have you checked the valve gaps with the engine hot ? they tend to close up a little bit as the engine reaches operating temperature . Also , the battery cables *MUST* be 1 gauge or thicker and the ground cable must be attached to the tranny or engine , not the frame . I assume you've done a hot spark test ? old coils sometimes get weak yellow sparks when they get hot . check the primary resistance across the small terminals , it should be 1.6 Ohms . if it's more , use an old VW Bosch coil . No resistor typ sparkplugs nor wires (I use two sets of VW Kafer wires) , spark plugs must be gapped to .035" and timing dead nuts @ ball on pointer in the little window above the starter . Once in a while the points will get excessive resistance , file them or replace them , gap to .016" or set to 33° dwell if you can find a dwell meter .
Hot Coil I have been having a similar trouble with my 51 I fixed the horn the other day and stopped on the way home to pick up some Milk when went back to the truck it would not start? after putzing around fora bit i thought i had just flooded it so i gave it soe time to rest had teh wife pick me up and wnet home to do the chores she had for me. We went back an hour later and tried again nothing happened would not start I then noticed that the coil even aftersitting for some time was hot to the touch? I took it off and brought it back home stuck it in teh freezer for about ten minutes and went back to teh truch put it on and it started? Now maybe I got lucky or maybe the stars were aligned properly Im not sure but i got it home and then checked spark which was pretty weak and yellow I ordered two new coils from Napa though they are not in stock(6volt). I saw here on teh list something about Pertronics so I went to thier website and I am pretty sure I want to buy the "ignitor" and put it in but teh closest place that carries it is 50 miles away so I need to find someone who will ship. oh i should also mention that the system does not ahve a Capacitor Bill
Hey 51 HHR. Watch the pertronic unit. I put one on my 55 1st , and it ran great but ran into a couple of problems. The one I bought was for a second series 55 because they didn't list one for six volt. If you read the directions it specifies an internally resisted coil or a ballast resistor to bring your voltage down below 8 volts ( This is all spelled out in the instructions) I used the internally resisted coil and have 7.5 volts. The second probrem was that the unit that went onto the distributor and snapped down over the point cam didn't fit. This was on my 6 volt distributor. On a hunch, I went out back to where I had a 62 Chevy P/U ( which was 12 volt ) and tried that distributor and the unit fit perfectly. A quick swap and problem solved. Apparently when they switched to 12 volt they changed the size of the point cam so if you decide to use it keep that in mind. I've had mine in for 4 years now without a problem.
Wont start when warm 38 years ago I had a 62 chevy that would not start when engine was warm. I found that I could retard the timing and it would start. It seemed to have more power when the timing was advanced but would only start when the timing was less advanced. Is easy to turn the distributor back a little. Dont cost anything to try.
thanks Thanks for all information. I have a date with an old mechanic (German Bosch Man ) tomorrow and i will take all advices with me. I told him about my problem and he said he knows what's is. I will see tomorrow and come back with the resolution.
Attn : Bill Of course the coil is hot ! I'm amazed the contact points didn't fry to a crisp ~ the condensor (capacitor) is critical to the proper operation of the ignition ~ I'd get a condensor ASAP , replace the points and mmeasure the primary resistance of the coil too as it should never be hot ~ warm yes but hot means it could explode and strand you , not to mention the mess the PCB laced oil inside it wil make... -Nate Bil Wrote :
Attn Nate My Mistake it does have a condensor inside the the distributor under the Cap what I meant to convey is that teh coil says "no external resistor needed" though the Coil after a 30 or 40 minute drives and then sitting for perhap an hour was warmer then i thought it should be when i took it off and i would say it was definately warmer then the engine block by this time Napa delivered teh new coils today but i forgot them at work so I will monkey with it this weekend I also bought new points and even though im sure the gap and procedure is in the maintenance manual as to how to do it and what the gap is I am also sure that you ahve a faster and better way of doing it Thanks Bill
Tune Up Hi Bill ; measure the coil across the little connectors wires OFF , it should be about 1.6 Ohms . New points? wipe the contact faces with a clean rag dipped in alcohol , NO , beer won't work Points gap to .016" , if you have acess to a dwell meter , remove all the spark plugs & the # 1 cylinder plug wire , connect the red terminal of the dwell meter to the coil to points wire , set to the 6 cylinder dwell setting . remove dizzy cap and rotor , turn ignition on , crank engine , watching the dwell meter and adjust points as it cranks to 33° dwell , snug up the points screw and re-check as they might drift when you're snugging up the screw , gap new NON RESISTOR spark plugs (I use NGK's) to .035" and re-install , start engine and drive to store for beer to warm it up , when it's idling , set idles peed to 600 RPM's and use the timing light to set the timing to ball on pointer as veiwed through the silly little window above the starter ~ there's a pinch clamp on the dizzy base , loosen it but be aware that the spring loaded advance mechanism makes it tricky to properly adjust the timing as is holding the timing light so you can actually SEE the timing marks whilst they're illuminated . If you have long hair , TIE IT UP AND WEAR A CAP ! you're working around rotating machinery that'll yank your ENTIRE SCALP OFF and never even notice (although you will) . I hope this helps . You really should perform a HOT valve adjust before touching the ingtion system , even if you just did it last spring . Oh yes ~ the' remove the # 1plug wire from the dizzy cap ' thing ? when you're trying to put it all back to-gether and realize the dizzy cap has loose plug wires flopping around , you always start with the missing # 1 plug wire , go _clockwise_ in the following order : 1 , 5 , 3 , 6 , 2 , 4 this works like a charm every time , once you get in the habit of removing that # 1 plug wire anytime your under the hood.... have a happy holiday ! .
Thanks Nate Thanks I now know one of the things im going to be doing this weekend besides closing the pool and cutting the grass oh anda picnic and a 7am scuba dive Bill
Closing the pool!!!! Say it isn't so. It can't be that time of year already. I still haven't had any fun this summer! Oh well, I had better get in one last BBQ this weekend then. And then, start thinking about Xmas. Just kidding. BTW, Nate is the dwell meter the thing next to that funny gun looking light at the bottom of my Mac toolbox. The one I haven't used since 1982? Guess I need to pull it out for my truck if I ever get it going again. Take care all....Mike
Dwell Tachometer Yes , Mike , that's prolly what it is and it is used to adjust breaker point ignition systems for maximum output .
don't stat when hot My German Bosch Man is the best. The coil had a hole, the resistor and the capacitor wasn't locked. Now she sounds like a cat and all for $20. It's a good guy.
thing to consider about carb question I am not a mechanic but it seems like i remember my dad telling me that at higher altitudes the carb acts different. You might need to reajust it to your alltiude. Just a thought.
