I was wondering how many of you have used POR15? I have some areas where I want to use POR15 on my truck where some hammer and dolly work has left it less than smooth. The question I have is which order do you put these items on the truck (example 1,2 or 3 below)? 1. POR15 - body filler - primer 2. Body filler - POR15 - primer 3. Primer - POR15 - body filler? Thanks! Duane
I thought that is what I might have to do. When I emailed the POR15 folks and inquired they said to put POR15 down first but I have heard that once that stuff dries it's hard to get anything to stick to it and that you should primer just after it becomes dry to the touch or the primer may have a hard time adhering to it. That scenario makes it tough to do any body filler work though so I think I'll try option 2 and keep my fingers crossed that it works okay and doesn't rust more underneath it. Anybody else out there who has used this stuff successfully? Thanks, Duane
Hey Duane ! you should check out a co. called Magnet paints. They have a similar paint called Chassis Saver. It's a pretty informative site. If you want to do some tests find a piece of sheet metal and lay down various layers. Once everything is dry take the piece and flex a little...see what happens...Ed
Ed, Thanks for the tip. I'll check out the site. There was another site and I can't remember where it was at, but the guy was doing a comparison with competing products to POR15 and he said that they seemed to do a pretty good job, but that he personally would probably stick with POR15 because of their reputation for the product lasting a long time and being effective. I did go to POR15's website awhile back and they do have a primer that will stick to a panel with the POR15 fully cured and they also have a body filler that can stick to POR15. The problem is that the POR15 products aren't cheap -- but then doing the truck a second time again due to rust isn't too cool either! I am considering maybe buying their body fillers and POR15 and primer and using the primer for the first coat of primer and then using another brand to finish it off and to block sand with. I just need to make sure that everything sticks together properly and won't peel or bubble off later on. Duane
Larry, You can get more information at http://www.por15.com, but basically it is a "paint" that you put on rusted metal which seals the metal from oxygen so that the metal doesn't rust anymore. For areas such as in wheel wells, chassis, and other areas where water, salt, and dirt collect its a good preventitive measure against future rust. Duane
You want to hear something weird...I used a rust converter by Plasti-cote...covered the whole piece...when i went to sandblast some ruff spots on the same piece the rust came off unbelievably easy. I had started to blast it first but decided to try the converter, then go back to the ruff spots I didnt think the converter would penetrate enough......weird...Ed
I have a similar situation going on right now. I used naval jelly to convert the rust and I was amazed at how well it took some of that off but I have some rough, pitted areas I wanted to sand blast. Just waiting for a good sunny saturday where it isn't raining or snowing to do it outside. I was watching a metal shrinking video and the guy has a website and he talks about a product called "The Must for Rust." It's a rust converter where you can primer right over the top of it without even having to rinse it off. He also says that it you left the metal to sit for a year that you wouldn't even get surface rust. He has tried POR15 metal prep and had some problems with it and he was surprised because of the good reputation that the POR folks have. He's been in the metalworking business for quite some time. You ought to maybe check out his site: http://www.tinmantech.com and check under the FAQ's link for rust remover. Duane
o.k, i am new here but this just stuck a nerve, i believe that the body filler should be on bare metal as i have tried all other combos. also por 15 and rust bullet (now anyway) suggest that you scuff the surface when applying body filler, as this tip was not on thier websites earlier. it makes sense that you would have to scuff up any way due to the hardness of the product and the smoothness in witch it dries. i did on the bed of my 59 glass bead everything, do my initial fill with fibrestrand(tigerhair) and than smoothed with a cheap filler. than as an experiment sprayed rust bullet over the entire outside of the bedsides. the primer had a real, real, real bad time holding to the r.b so i scuffed with 100 scuffpad and have not had any problems. everyone you talk to on this subject has a different view. if you do not have access to a media blaster and you just want to cover the area with por, be sure to add 1 more coat than specified and you will have some room for scuffing for your filler, as it needs the roughness to adhere to. please understand, that i am not trying at all to tell you what to do but rather save you some fustration in this area that i have been through and am really still experimenting with diff. methods and thus far this has been the best. i live in a saly infested area in the winter and do most of my testing that way.
Thanks for the info! A guy I work with has used POR15 before and what he recommended was that you spray your part with POR15 and then let it sit until it just barely dries. At that point you can spray the primer right over the top of it without having to scuff and because it hasn't fully set up yet the two compounds will bond together. I have tried this on the inside of my fenders and it appears to work pretty good. I want to try this on an area where I put the body filler down and get it ready for primer. Then spray it with POR15 and then the primer. My concern is that body filler and POR15 won't bond together and I get separation later on. That would be a disaster if it happens after putting all that hard work into the truck and a nice paint job only to have it fall apart later on.
