Mounting Cab 'Gotchas'?

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by GLRnTX, Sep 17, 2008.

  1. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    I am getting ready to mount the cab back on the chassis. Is there an informal checklist for things to do before mounting the cab? I have decided to leave the steering column attached. Is this a bad idea? I removed the gear shift lever so the column will pass through the hole in the firewall. Would it make more sense to remove the column and remount it once the cab is mounted?

    I am going to rebuild the brake master cylinder before mounting the cab, but is there anything else I should be thinking about? :confused: Most of the seals in the firewall are mounted inside the cab, so that should not be a problem. I have also removed the starter, brake and clutch pedals.

    I have already painted the bottom (and undercoated) and the firewall with basecoat. The rear shackles have been rebuilt with new bushings and are mounted on the frame.
     
  2. Zig

    Zig Member

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    My 2.8999 cents worth?

    And the pictures of all of this are where???:rolleyes:

    I took my column out before I rolled my cab onto its back. I'll put the column back in after I have done all I can do to the engine. (new gaskets, hook everything back up including exhaust, grommets in the firewall where things pass through, new water lines for the heater, etc. That way I won't have to drape myself over the fender or work around the steering box as I do all this.

    But then again, that's just how I am doing it. You know me~ I own a G, so my thoughts aren't always right... :D
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Cab Installation

    It's been a long time since I dismounted a cab (1976) but I do recall that removing the steering gear complete (DO NOT take it apart ! :eek:) really eases things a lot .

    If you read Evan's (' coilover ') older posts he's addressed this in detail many times , I highly suggest following anything he says for this job .
     
  4. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Somehow I knew someone was going to ask for pictures. I will post pics before the end of the day.

    I wasn't going to put the fenders back on just yet.
     
  5. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Photos

    Here are some pictures of my '51 frame and cab.
     

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  6. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Nice

    Just out of interest, what tyres are you running on?
     
  7. Larrys 48

    Larrys 48 Member

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    Nice job

    Very nice. I like the color :D it looks very close to the original Forest Green.
     
  8. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Way to GO!!!

    GRLnTX~ Great job on your truck!!! I don't like your name, (cause I can't remember it if I don't see it- like for this post) but I love what you've done with your ride! (I noticed all the primed pieces in the background. You're going to beat me!) As I said, I think it'll be easier to disconnect the whole thing from the frame, put the cab back on, then feed the column back up inside and reattach it. BUT~ if you have a lot of manpower, who knows?:cool:

    Great truck!
     
  9. coilover

    coilover Member

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    First, very nice work. It appears you are working at your home garage which could be a problem to get the cab high enough with steering column in place. You will need to have the chassis where it will roll easily because as you start down, and since the column is at almost a 45 degree angle, for each inch you come down with the cab the chassis will need to roll back an inch. The column WILL get scratched up so it's better to paint later. Any masking is just something to hang on the toe board. The balance point is at the very front of the door opening where the pillar starts to curve down (you know that, you took it off) but a more stable way is to have your beam through the doors where the opening is flat and put enough weight on the back of the floor where the gas tank sets to balance the cab. Have your lifting beam long enough so the strap/chain fastened to the ends of it doesn't crush the drip rails--a common occurence. It looks as though you have everything spanking clean so it should be easy to run the steering gear mounting bolts in and out a couple times on the steering box to frame which means you could run them up by hand if you installed the column after the cab was on. The front of the frame will need to be about 3 1/2 feet up to stab the column up through the hole in the toe board from underneath but this will let you, with the help of a friend, guide the column with a finish paint job into place. With the fenders still off the steering box bolts are easy to install.
     
  10. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Zig-
    Sorry my name is Greg. I have been reading this site for years, but have only started posting recently. Still learning...

    Brit-
    The Tires (tyres for you) are Highliner 650-16LTs. They were on the truck when I bought it and have zero miles on them [not counting rolling it on and off my trailer several times] I will probably replace them with whitewalls when the truck is done.

    Larry-
    The paint is a PPG (DBC system $$$) mix to match the Forester Green (original).

    Evan-
    I think I have been talked into removing the steering column? I will check your earlier posts, but are there any other things (beside the master cylinder) that will be more difficult to work on once the cab is installed?


    Greg
     
  11. BIG CHEVY 3600

    BIG CHEVY 3600 Member

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    How in the dickens did you get the cab off with the steering column there? I would say that you should return the cab like you took it off.
     
  12. Zig

    Zig Member

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    No lie!

    I bet that was a F#@d to get off!:D (I'd use other words, but that's as bad as it gets!)
    I found that marking the pitman arm's location as it relates to the post you'll pull it off of and then pulling it, to be a breeze. Once that's off, remove the bolts Evan is talking about and set the whole works aside. Put your cab back, slide the column carefully back in, (rotate as needed...) and you'll be good as new. I'm almost where you are with your project. Check my "More Pictures" post. (I think that was the name...:()
    At any rate~ Good Luck! You'll have a dandy when you're done!:cool:
     
  13. rix 48

    rix 48 Member

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    Nice work Greg. Wanna trade?:D:D

    Really like the motor work!!

    Rick
     
  14. Chiro

    Chiro Member

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    Ah Jeez,

    Take the darn box off, for crying out loud. It's EASY, there's nothing ELSE in the way...you have the whole rest of the nose off already. Leave the pitman arm attached to the box. It is a bugger to get off even with a pitman arm puller. Better to use a pickle fork (ball joint fork) at the other end of the pitman arm where the steering connecting rod is. Two good hits with the BFH and it's off easy as pie. coupla bolts and the steering box is off and you don't have to worry about whether or not you have the pitman arm in the right spot because it's still connected to the steering box.

    This will make dropping the cab into place a MILLION times easier and enjoyable. In fact, I think it is folly to try to lower the cab onto the steering column. Really, removing the steering box/column is so easy you should not even entertain the idea of dropping the cab with it still in place.

    Andy
     
  15. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    The steering box and column came off this morning. It took a little encouragement and a pickle fork, but it's done.

    I also rebuilt the master cylinder this morning and remounted it. I don't know how anyone could ever replace this from the underside. :eek: I double-checked all of the brake line clips and all is done on that.

    The last thing is to finish the exhaust system (just because it will be easier from above) and lay down the plastic sheeting to protect the frame from future painting. The cab should be on by tomorrow afternoon.
     
  16. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Greg :

    NOW is the time to center the steering box ! DO NOT assume it was done correctly when the truck was new , nor that it's never been apart in the intervening years....

    It's easy ~ get a degree wheel (I use a paper one from a Vespa Scooter site)
    and tape it to the steering wheel , gently turn the staeering wheel from full lock left to tight and count the total number of degrees , begin at one end of it's travel or the other (left or right makes no differance) and turn it 1/2 the number of degrees , now the steering box is centered , install the pitman arm so it's hanging straight down , then re-position the steering wheels as needed so the spokes are correctly positioned ~ you'll usually find the pitman arm is at least one spline off and yes , this makes a HUGE differance in how nicely the finished truck drives ~ remembeing Chevy's sales sloagan when your truck was new :

    " If It Steers Like A Truck , It's not A CHEVROLET ! " .
     
  17. GLRnTX

    GLRnTX Member

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    Thanks Nate. The cab is back on so the steering box will be tomorrow's project.


    Greg
     
  18. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Thanks, Nate!

    Great instructions! I need to get all the gaskets for intake/exhaust back on that side, but as soon as that's done, I'll be following your steps for this! Thanks!:cool:
     
  19. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Manifold Installation

    O.K. , please look up my older post about proper installation of InLine manifold combos , if not done correctly , they can crack or break .

    Whew ! I'm bushed .
     
  20. Thunder54

    Thunder54 Member

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    Very Nice job Glen

    The truck looks great.

    I don't think i could have ever mounted my cab on my frame with my column in place, but reinstalling the column was easier than taking it off.

    Another beautiful AD truck in Texas.

    Jim:cool:
     

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