I am getting ready to install my rear parallel 4 link system and was wondering where you get your materials for boxing the frame? Is there a place to order the pieces already cut to size, or do i just need to make them myself? Thanks ________ Smoke weed every day
i made my boxing plates with 4 mm plate steel cut out on a plasma cutter then cleaned up with a soft pad , yu could mark em out on cardboard then transfer that to steel and cut them out with a thin plasma disc and do the same clean up wit a soft pad , that way is just as easy but a bit more time consuming ,
We do the same as ASH. His 4mm is equal to about 0.157 inch. I like 1/8" cold rolled because it is very close to the original frame thickness. It is best to not leave the boxing plate square at the ends. The factory "C" channel frame is designed to flex and the boxed section is rigid so stress cracks can happen where they join. The easiest way to relieve this is to cut the boxing plate at a 45 degree or greater angle so there is a transition area from the boxed to unboxed frame. On the S10 where the front box frame joins the rear "C" channel frame GM used a plate with a parabolic shaped end---kind of like the Nike "swoosh".
Box Plates I would suggest something a bit thicker than 1/8" if your going to mount the 4-link brackets to it. I used 3/16" "pickled and oiled" plate on mine when I put in the triangulated 4-link from air ride technologies. Just make some templates out of poster board, cut out and transfer to the steel (don't think it will be perfect the first time like on TV ie. "Monster Garage") (I wish I would have kept the templates) Give yourself a nice bevel on the edge so you can get a good weld bead to the frame. I have pictures of my job if you want to see how it's done. Send me a note with your e-mail.
Look around locally and you will find a steel company that sells metals that they cut to size. They can pre-cut the pieces you need at usually no cost.
I'm doing this to mine right now installing a IRS from a 95 t bird. Trace the frame onto cardboard, then transfer it to steel. A welding shop can cut it out for you. Grind a 45 Degree bevel on the edge for weld penetration, and to leave some meat when you grind it smooth. Make shure all edges are ground clean. Clamp it tightly in several places and move clamps down as you weld. I am going to weld in the riveted crossmembers and probably make some X braces closer to the cab to counter some of the flex.
i have a guy that does welding for me, i am terrible. i know of a local place for the metal so ill just buy the metal and trace templates. Thanks for everyone's help. ________ Herbal vaporizers
While my truck is not a 47-54, the process I used can be applied. I traced my patterns onto paper then had them laser cut out of steel plate. Most of the sheetmetal businesses will have some sort of cutting service (water jet, laser, etc.). I used 3/16 steel for my plates. Photos below:
