If I install the dual webber carter carb set up do I have to move the LH fender brace because it interfers I have seen a picture of the set up that suggest this. What other options do I have short of rebuilding my rochesters that I have now. Looking for direction, thanks. Dave
I had to remove that fender brace. The PS brace is all by itself. I have thought recently of returning to a single carb set-up (only one leaking carb instead of 2), so I may yet install the DS fender Brace. I also had to cut and remove a 1" section of the shifter bracket (due to interference) and re-weld it. My truck is a column shift - if you have a floor shift this mod is obviously not required. GL
Dr. side brace All it takes is a little creative bending and a threaded collar to reconfigure the rod and add a piece to it to clear the carbs and provide support to the fender. The modified rod clears the rear carb with room to spare. I've got some pictures of the modified rod in my webshgots albums(pg 13-15 in the Shoebox album). I picked up the threaded collar at Tractor supply and threaded a short piece of round stock to cover the extra distance to the fender. Dave
dual Carbs Thanks for the help all. Sorry for the questions but was it worth the upgrade before I go that directions? What other suggestions might you have. Dave I have been looking at your pictures carefully, how necessary is the fender brace? I'm assuming it is there for a reason. ( great pictures by the way) What are the risk in leaving it off. Also why did you go from a single holly to a dual Webber Carter if I might ask? GL, PS brace and DS fender brace? I know when you tell me I going to feel stupid.
We lwft it off of the 50 I built for clearance issues. As long as all the other bolts are tight, it doesn't seem to have any effect.
Carter YF'S ! Are the carbys to use , there's a recent thread with the correct model numbers , if you decide to go with auto chokes , you'll ony need one with an operating choke . be sure to adjust the metering rods in both carbys identically . Th fender brace rod helps prevent body flex and future cracks in sheet metal , most simply delete it but I have seen a few with a longer bit of rod slightly 'S' bent to clear the carby then threaded on the end to fit like original. You'll find the added expense of Carter YF carbys well worth the $ and time but , like the Rochester 'B' series carby , EVERY PART must match or it'll never run right , watch out for mis matched jets etc. The Carter's won't seep and wet up with fuel like the Rochesters do . Sorry for my poor response to your earlier note , my pain meds were off and the car had died in Everett Wa. at night in 42* F temperature , I wasn't on the ball .
Dr. Side fender brace I've seen a lot of trucks without the fender brace and their fenders weren't flapping.....however, I had the original brace.....a vise to make a couple simple bends, the female all-thread couplers were available and I figured why not? It took less time to make the little bends and bolt it up than it would to explain why I left it off! As for the Carter/Webers......I wasn't about to pour a bunch of time and money into getting the engine all tweaked and hang on worn out rebuilt carb (s) that needed constant tinkering. The C/W's and H/W's are new, ready to roll right out of the box; basically bolt on, sync and drive. I built the engine and geared for a cruiser. The matched dual carb setups from Langdon are simple, efficient, work okay with blended (E10) fuel, have auto chokes, which work correctly and the setup is reasonably priced. I'd run a single H/W on a 235 so popping for the dual C/W's on my new engine build was just a natural progression. The C/W's come with an electric choke on each carb and they both need to be connected to a "key on" hot wire. A dual pigtail is included and if one of the chokes is without power the choke circuit will not fully open after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. This results in a rough idle and reduced fuel economy. Just a word about adding duals carbs.....if you're expecting a "kick-in-the-pants" improvement with the progressive 2bbls, you might be disappointed. It just isn't going to happen with a 235. However, if you're after acceleration without hesitation, good fuel economy, reasonable cost, a great idle, not leaking carbs and gas smells in the cab, then the H/W or C/W's are a great option. Dave
Dual Carbys THANX Dave ! . Any chance of a link to these <magic> new carbys ? . FWIW , new or used , if you have popping throug the carbys , they're not properly synchronized . I like to set 'emup @ idle and then synchronize the linkage @ 3,000 RPM's or so (the sweet spot) for maximum power , economy and throttle response . If this is done ' Just So ' , you'll find driveline destroying power you simlpy cannot fully use out of any dual carby setup , they're good and fun but easy on the leadfoot or you'll be fixing tranny , U-Joint and splintered ring & pinions forevermore . About the choke , I have yet to see a carby that the choke heater element isn't adjustable on , some of the modern ones have rivets holding the element into factory adjustment , easy to drill out then tap for some screws to facilitate proper cold weather adjustment as God and the dead dinosaurs intended . I too am missing the left side support rod and no discernable differance , I just think I need to get off my duff and find one , paint & install it . The fenders won't flap no matter what , 2 out of every 3 fender bolts were gone missing when I purchased y poor old shop truck , apparently only I cared or even noticed , these AD's have very solid design behind them .
here are the carbs http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=97 and here is a little thread on them http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81546
Dual Carbs Dave, Nate, and GL many thanks for your feedback. You have convinced me so I will make the plunge and order the carbs from Tom. My wife finally gave me some mad money for xmas so I'm using it before it goes away. I wanted to make sure I was going in the right direction. It will be awhile before I get them installed and will try to let you know what my reaction is. Next on the list per the guidance on this forum is the pertronixs ignition system. Any feed back on this let me know. Again thanks for the help. Dave
Carter/Webber 2V Carby Well ; Now you know why Dave was dissapointed with the added performance ~ those are WAY too much for the stock , three intake port 216/235 & 261 heads...... Even if you jetted them way down they're still too much IMO . Will prolly be terriffic in racing application where street tractability off the line isn't important but you want full tilt boogie over 2,600 RPM's . Stick with two (or three) single venturi carbys and you'll love a multi carby setup on Chevy's world beating Stove Bolt mill . Or , slap one of these babies onto the stock intake manifold and see what happens . I'm not wild about the hokey make-do monkey motion linkages shown either , I bet it all wears out in 30,000 miles max. . THANK YOU for the links Greg ! . -Nate
Ignition Upgrades Dave ; I cannot say enough good things about the Pertronix Ignitor system , it's simple and nearly foolproof , it extracts the maximum spark out of the stock ignition system with out forcing rapid wear of the plugs wires , cap and rotor like all the ' !!MEGASPARK !! ' systems do . Read all the older posts on this BEFORE you order up the wrong system ! . -Nate
