I mentioned in a previous thead that I needed to center the rear end of my truck. I was going to do this by reversing the springs. Although this seems pretty straight forward, I've found out that what sounds simple rarely is. Is there anything I need to be prepared for or is it as simple as it seems?
I wish you had a shorter name... mobileortho, Don't you have a 3/4? (springs on the outside of the frame with the axle _under_ the spring?) I don't have time to look at the photos. I have the same set up and am NOT looking forward to this swap. But if I have to... Dave's photo bucket has a slick idea on how he did his half ton without flipping the springs. I'm wondering if a similar approach would work for 3/4s? It'll just take some looking and figuring... Good luck!
Very usefull information on deve's web site heres the link http://speedprint.com/deves50/ Regards Gerald
What kind of drivetrain are you going to use? By reversing the springs, you should gain about 2"+/-, thus centering the rear wheel more in the center of the wheel well. However, you'll have to have 2"+/- more driveshaft. Something to think about.
These two threads will show you how I did it. It was much simpler than a swap and I have had zero problems. Rear tire to fender clearance https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=6277 A little too tight on rear fenders https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=6253 Gater
I have not installed a drive shaft yet because I've been waiting to move the rear. Someone suggested that I redrill the hole forward on the perch itself. That sounds much easier than dropping the springs.
I just stumbled across a kit that Brothers sells that will move the rear back 1 1/2". Retails for $50.00. I might give it a try.
perch block There are a couple things to consider when you reposition your diff to the rear to center the wheel in the wheel well. First of all, the cheapest, simplest way I'v found is to use a 6" chunk of 1/2X2" flat stock.....drill a hole large enough to go over the center bolt in the spring on one side we'll call the bottom of the block. I moved it off-center the amount I wanted to move the diff to the rear. On the top of the block drill another hole all the way through and tap the hole so you can install a 3/8" bolt. The head of this bolt will be trimmed down so it will fit into the position hole in the bottom of the perch. I originally wanted to move my wheels back 1-1/4" to center. However, I would have needed to make a major addition to my already shortened driveshaft....so I went back 3/4" to see if it would work. As you move the diff to the rear, you will effect the pinion angle so you're going to have to do some grinding on the plate to maintain the angle. Once you get the block trimmed on the spring mating surface it might be a good idea to tack it to the perch. Another thing to consider.....if you do use the block you may need to spring for some longer U-bolts. If you happen to be running an S-10 T5 with a Camaro diff, the stock shortbox S10 driveshaft is the perfect length to move the diff 1-1/2" to the rear, using this block. I have a picture of the block in my webshots album on page 6 of the "Shoebox." Save your $50.00 for new U-bolts!! Dave
Spring U-Bolts FWIW , take the time to shop around on these as the last time I did some it was (of course) on a Saturday so my regular supplier (means FREE) was closed ~ all the places I called wanted $12.00 + PER U-Bolt (takes 4) PLUS new nuts and bolts (DO NOT reuse the old nuts ! ) except the very last place I called , he said ' sure ! I'll bend 'em up while you wait for $6.00 each ! ' ~ and he did . Most places will try to give you longer U-Bolts than your samples , watch out for this and you don't want extra threads sticking out of the completed job .
U-bolts Autozone sells a lowering block kit with REALLY long U-bolts for about $30.00....the aluminum blocks make great paper weights. When you cut off the U-bolts, they make great studs for drawing in a harmonic balancer on a stovebolt engine that's been drilled for a SBC balancer bolt. So why do you tap the crank snout? So you can use a socket and flex bar to turn over your stovebolt engine and it might even secure a balancer on a crank snout that wasn't 100% for a press fit. Dave
We clamp the whole spring with center bolt in place into the vise on the bed of the hydrastatic drill press and drill a new center bolt hole any place it's needed to center the wheel. The whole trick to drilling spring steel is turning the drill the exact right speed. Once that speed is reached the drill zooms right through the spring. So far, knock on wood, the old center bolt hole has not caused the spring to break at that point. If a shop has a infinitely variable speed drill press, and that means one you can go up or down one RPM, then they should be able to do the job for ten or fifteen bucks a spring.
Andy Here you go, Andy. Dave __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/Fla54Chevy3100 Dave has the really slick (light blue or light grey~ can't tell) '54. He has a few posts on this thread, also. Check his site out. He went into great detail to explain what he did. It's really a good site for us "visual" learners. Kind of like _Roberts_ Thanks, Robert!
3/4 ton springs OK, Robert~ So I took the time to check your site again, and it is as I expected. You have a 3/4 ton, so the 1/2 ton stuff that's been mentioned won't work. Our back ends go _under_ the springs, not on top... Gater's set up is like what we have, so might want to take a look at what he did.
Robert, I had seen this method in a DIY somewhere and used the idea. I did all my measurements, make up some drawings and took them to a local fab shop and told them what I was doing. He made the plate to my specs. Notice that I had overload springs. I decided I didn't want them so I took them out then took the U bolts to a local spring shop and had them bend me some new ones that were the right length. I got new nuts (shut up Zig) and put everything back together. Didn't cost much and solved the problem. Bill
Thanks Bill for the info. I think I'll go ahead and order the Brothers kit. I'd probably end up spending that much or more hunting down the materials of having someone fab them for me. Do you recall how much it cost you? Chiro, I can't copy & paste the link to the site but it's on the page 99 of the catalog I downloaded from them.
