a 66 chevy c10 parts truck. my 64 (which ive had for almost 3 years) has tons of rust on the cab, doors, hood, fenders. basically the entire body except the bed. mine is a shortbed fleetside. has a sbc400, been converted to 5 lug, power brakes, front disc, power steering, 10 bolt rear, etc... runs and drives awesome. rust when you hit bumps your showered with rus from the roof and dash. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/williamb82/my_64_c10/ as you can see lots of rust. this truck is a long bed and has a stepside bed from a 69 which i wont use. gonna swap the cab, doors, fenders, hood, rad support etc... to my truck. all the gauges work, wipers work, heater box nd fan work but i may remove those. havent decided. prolly will though. heres pics. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/williamb82/my 66 c10/ when all is said and done and i can paint it i plan for it to look like this except the wheels. same color and all. ive been on this forum awhile and asked lots of questions. now that i found a cab to use im keeping my truck. so will be asking more questions. btw if anyone near central florida needs a 67-72 long fleetside bed lmk, or if you need a longwheelbase 60-66 rolling chassis lmk. ill be selling both. just have to get the parts i need off first.
btw, does anyone know how much a complete cab weighs with doors and windows? ill pull the seat, but didnt want to remove the doors as they are lined up perfect. just need to know so i know how many friends to get to come over to help swap it.
Looks like a Great Project William. Cant say as far as Weight other then Awkward as much as the Weight , Front Ussually seems to be heavier Depending on whats Removed. But Best bet IMO, 4 People , one for each corner. , It can be done With less, But Why take the risk of Someone getting hurt or Damage to the cab. Just My thoughts, Best of luck.
66 looks great Williamb82 good builder!! are you converting all 64 stuff to 66? that 69 bed looks good and straight .. well worth $300.00 easy.
well, im using the 64 cab and fenders and hood and cluster, steering column etc.. i need an auto column, or one with no shifter on it. im thinking of rigging the ebrake lever as my shifter with a b&m shifter cable. kinda make it stealth so harder to steal as they wont know how to shift it. lol. im keeping my front grill and the custom plates off the sides of the cab, and my fleetside bed and chassis. i noticed the vin tag is in a diff spot on he 66 cab. should i put my 64 vin tag in that spot or drill holes in the drivers side door sill and mount it like it is in my 64 cab? havent decided on that yet. i want to keep it titled and registered as a 64 since its a 64 frame and bed. front crossmember and suspension and brakes as far as i can tell are likely 74 parts like the 74 sbc 4 barrel 400. i think the guy got it all from the same parts truck. rear in my 64 is supposedly a 3.73 out of a suburban. all i know is its a 10 bolt. havent examined close enough to see if its a 8.2 or 8.5 10 bolt though. ill try to get all that checked out this weekend. prolly gonna get my camel hump heads back from my buddy and get the steam holes in them like planned for my 400. lots to do now that i can get it all done.
sounds like good plan good luck on everything, need any of our help here thats what I love this forum so much good helping people here ..some may be little crazybut thats ok too..
exactly, just like the celicasupra.com forum. we got a few crazy people but thats what makes things interesting. lol. im one of them. always breaking parts and dont care as long as i got what i need to fix it. im putting a lt1 t56 on the 7mgte i have in my 84(tired of breaking the stock 5 speed and want the double over drive as well). already made the adaptor plate and got a tilton 7.25in tripple disc clutch, quarter master internal slave, 1 piece ds, etc.. just waiting on my custom flywheel. lol. my supra is a mut. gm parts, ford parts. toyota 4x4 parts, mr2 parts, isuzu trooper shocks out back etc... btw, you guys might want to check out the ratrod im helping my friend brian build. 32 chevy pickup. lol. its been chopped 6in since the pics. ill try to get more pics this weekend when we start on the cage for it. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/williamb82/ratrod/
got the truck safely to my brothers where my 64 is. didnt get pics as ran into tons of traffic so it was dark by the time we got it there. anyhow, i checked under my 64, dont know how i thought i had a 10 bolt under there. its a 12 bolt. no i just need to find out the axels splines etc.. so i can try to get a posi for it. sometimes it spins both wheels and sometimes only one so im pretty sure its an open diff.
Look like this What color is that? It looks just like my Dad's '60 Impala. I want that color for my '58.
its a chevy light blue as far as i know. that truck was red, and badass that way, but i sent a pic of the truck, and this pic below to my friend and she photoshopped the truck this color blue for me. so as far as i can tell it is a genuine chevy color, and is the one i plan to use. edit: btw, does anyone have a link to the full specs of these trucks? im wondering what rear end gear is in the 66 rear end. both my trucks have a 12 bolt and from what i can tell are both 30 spline axels. so if the 66 has a better gear ratio for cruising, from wat i can tell i can take my 5 lug axels and drum setup and move it to that rear so i wont have to do the backlash and all changing the gears. my 64 is supposedly been swapped to 3.727, but i think 3.42 would be much better with my sbc 400
well guys, after day two of my cab swap the new one is sitting on the truck. not bolted on though. i want to buy new cab mounting bushings as mine were shot. the bolts seemed ok so gonna reuse the ones from the 66. while the cab was off i put my th375 trans in after changing the filter and front and rear seals. also put a new pan on it as the junkyards just punch a hole in the pan to drain the fluid. the shift linkage one of the previous owners somewhat rigged for the powerglide fit right on the th375. just need to get the right dipstick tube. also the old trans crossmemebr was cut to fit the powerglide that was in it. im gonna move the cab back and grind the rivents off to get the remiaing pieces out of the frame for a cleaner look. also, the power steering gear box is bolted to a plate they welded o the frame. later im gonna try to buy the proper mounting bracket and remove that plate but for now im gonna leave it. its very strong and aint goin anywhere. anyone know of a power booster that will fit easier then the 73+? id rather not dril the bolt holes int he firewal so far apart as they were on the 64. also noticed they only had nuts on the top 2 studs. lower 2 didnt come through far enough. any way to change the lower two studs to make them longer? id like to bolt it all in proper. can i take the booster apart and put it back without screwing it up? next big task is tryin to find a driveshaft he right length at the pick and pul yard. if not mine has to be shortened 3in, which is only $40 but id still rather leave it intact as is. new driveshaft at the junkyard is only $20. need it to be 50in from the outer part of the ujoint holder to outer of the other u joint holder. pics are here. http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/williamb82/my 66 c10/
Looks like your off to a good start; and the truck looks good . good luck on everything. Remember to check the balance on the drive shaft , even if it looks straight double check it . just my 2*
yup. i plan too. the driveshaft shop will check it for free. i get custom shafts from him for people alot. i know the exact measurements and stuff for putting a turbo 5 speed into a 2nd gen supra. lol. so lots of people just pay me to get the ds for them as i can usually get it cheaper then them including shipping anyway. i still got tons left to do. tryin to find a better passenger door. the drivers door has the dent from the door stop not working but thats it. the passenger door is pretty wrinkled, even though it has zero rust its prolly better to find a straighter one. the skin would prolly be a pita to change. also need outer fenders and maybe a staighter hood. mines got a lil dent on the rear of it on the pass side. then i also need the front piece of the fleetside bed up by the cab. the top roll piece has holes rusted through it. other then that my bed is great aside from bad wood we are ripping out. btw, the auto shift rod fit right in the manual column like it was meant for it. the part closest to the firewall is the one for the up donw on the column. itll work great till i can get a proper auto column.
well, went to the junkyard this weekend and grabbed a steering column from a 79 van. it is a 3 speed auto column non tilt with no key on it.van has it in the dash same as my truck. i think itll be perfect. plug is diff so i cut the one out of the van so i can wire it in. hopefully without cutting any wires. also grabbed a set of long runer headman headers from a 75 c10 with 350. i think they will fit my 400 and not hit the frame rails. pretty good shape. lil rusty but not all of the paint had come off them yet so prolly not that old honestly. gonna wire wheel them good and use some header paint until i can get them coated. also got another pic of the truck in the daylight as it sits for the moment. need to buy the cab bushings so i can bolt the cab in place then start connecting everything else up. also decided to go back to manual brakes. dont want to drill holes in the firewall and found a truck wit hthe right mater cylinder for disc up front and drum rear but manual. gonna buy that new since its only like $26. still need to go grab another proportioning valve though as mine is too rusty. heres the pics. and this is the header tag. says headman headers, made in usa. bad pic. ill get another one when i clean them up.
well, tonight i got a vintage edelbrock torker intake. it is dirty and really old but after trying a few spots with wenol polish i think itll shine up nice. going to use this instead of the performer. going to get a oil fill tube and use that with a breather on top. now i need to find the finned edelbrock valve covers i want. ill take more pics once i clean it all up and polish it.my friend got a old vintage holley strip dominator to use on his 32 chevy as well. these projects are coming together.
summit and jegs sell the vintage edelbrock v/covers that are finned. i bought the california something something (cant remember the brand name) from jegs that are the tall alluminum v/covers that are finned with no names on the top....like the ones you would see on the old 40's and 50's hotrods, there a bit cheaper.
sounds like you got cal customs. my friend bought a set for his 32. i want to find a used set as 1, they will be cheaper, and 2 they will have a somewhat weathered look to match my polished intake. even after i polish it youll still see the minor imperfections in the metal tiny divets etc.. i want that look. make it seem it was found in an old barn or something. lol.
