I have a 53, 1/2 ton, with 215 85R (specs say 30.3" tall, 8.4" wide) 6 ply 1/2 used tires. But I cannot get the road wander out, even set in front-end toe in a fraction, per mechanic suggestions. Front-end man says all is ok. I suppose it could be the steering box. I like the look of a taller tire, but maybe the 6 ply is the problem on the narrow and rough 2-lane Farm-Market roads around here (it does not wander much on 4 lane roads). What about a 4 ply, like a 265 75R (31.6" tall, 10.5" wide), that being 1.5 inches taller, 2" wider per specs. My 215 actuals are only 6" wide at tread, 29" tall. Again, my objective - to stop road wander. Yes I know it should not do it, but it does. Thoughts on different tires, please.
Spin them on the balancer machine and look for run out. I have wide tires and look for wheel bearing trouble. The wider tires can put more pressure on the small outer bearing. I have been told that if the shortest spring on the bottom has been removed that it will make it wander. A lot of them are removed to make the truck lower. I have the 265s and no lower spring and it dont wander at all.
Shorter spring is there. But the pickup sat in the elements of west Texas since 1961, pulled it out of a sand dune, and I think the springs were submerged in dirt, blow sand up to the fenders anyway. I replaced the king pins (quite a challange beating them out), but I have always been sort of concerned about the springs, and have never changed the bushings where they tie into the frame, but they do not feel loose when I jack it up and shake the wheels. The wheel bearings are ok. Like I said, I had a front-end man check it all out, he said it was ok. When I hit a pot hole, it goes "wham" like an old truck. New shocks too. I do not expect it to ride like a modern car, but the road wander does bother me, feels unsafe. There is some play in the steering box down to where it connects to the steering rods, but I am unsure what is normal. When I had put 14" rims and tires (radials) on the front, right after getting it running years ago (using a quart every 50 miles back then), I do not remember the amount of road wander then, and they were 4 ply too. Smaller tires less wander? Kent
You aren't running bias ply tires are you? A good LT tire shouldn't wander. Check your tire pressure and maybe runn a little higher pressure to shore up the sidewalls.
Road Wanderer I had the same issue when I first rebuilt my truck. Redid the whole front end with new kingpins (same deal, lots of heat and beatings!), rebuilt the springs with all new bushings and polyride and redid the front bearings. It still was a wanderer It changed a lot when I put on new tires. Got rid of the old 8" ones and put on new LT 215 75R's. (they're on 16" rims and about 6" wide) Not sure if it was the age of the tires, size or type but that made a huge difference. I then went through the "Nate Special" steering box adjustment procedure and that fixed it almost completely. I recently added a front anti sway bar and now the truck feels like it is new. Nate's steering box adjustment procedure is in the archives. I would say that will give you the most bang for the buck (it's free!). If your tires are old, I would replace them anyway for safety reasons. (I believe side walls are shot after about 10 years irregardless of milage) Good luck!
Forgot to add I forgot to add I also redid the tie rod ends and the balls and springs on the drag link which removed 100% of the play before I started with the tires and steering box. (Same deal, even with the new tie rod ends and rebuilt drag link I still had the sway)
Yes I replaced the tie rod ends from the start, plastic looking half-moon things as I remember. The tires were given to me and are probably old, but they look ok and they are not whitewall's. I would like tires that ride easier than LT tires, they only make 8 and 10 ply now, in a 215. I am pretty mechanical for a non-pro, but I have looked at the steering box and said to myself - what the hey. Actually the way it wanders, is not so much a wander, but a sort of jerk, like something worn - but then again, the front end man (about age 60) said all was ok. It is possible it just bounces around on rough roads, because of old springs, and the stiff tires make it bounce. I will look at the steering box how-to anyway. And I suppose I need to replace the spring bushings too. I can drive it ok, but do not feel comfortable letting someone else. Kent
Bump Steer Looking at the archives, Bump-Steer is what I have, hit a flaw in the road and the vehicle sort of jumps a little to the side, expecially around curves in the road. And yes, I adjusted my pittman arm to match my steering wheel years ago, but have not gone into the steering box any, which is worn some, but how much is normal I do not know. Jacking up the front end, there is some play in the side-to-side tire movement, what is normal I do not know (but front-end man said all was ok).
Steering box adjustment I'd go for box adjustment if I was you. Nate's step by step is in the archives and it will only take an hour to do it right. I was shocked at how much adjustment I had to make on the two screws and how much it changed the handleing.
im no tire expert by any means but don't no radial tires have a tendency to wonder and not ride like today's radials?? just a though
I used the steering box adjustment that is directly out of the factory service manual. The manual says to use a spring scale to test for lbs. tension when turning the wheel after adjusting the two adjusters. I figured a spring scale was very innacurate and used my digital Bass fishing scale instead. It worked like a charm and when done, nearly all the play was gone from the steering. I didn't even get to rebuilding the drag link yet, although I have the parts to do it. I too was really concerned about the play in the wheel when driving and the bump steer that the improperly adjusted steering box gave the truck. After making the adjustments and filling the box with gear oil (not grease), the bump steer went away and the truck no longer wandered at all. I suggest you read the steering box adjustment procedure in the manual, invest in a digital fishing scale (real cheap), follow the procedure to the letter and see what happens. Andy
Reading this post makes me think iI should just go out and read the Manual and set it up, even though I dont think I have any trouble with my steering. I read an earlier post about "Bump Steer" and it frightens me though I have not experienced it.
Bump Steer Ok, I have printed Nate's instructions and will do that. I appreciate the other suggestions too, including the tension scale. My gear box leaks like a scieve too, bought some 750 wt oil, still leaks - with a new seal. Maybe the STP will work, it is thicker than the 750 stuff, I think. Maybe the synthetic grease is worth a try too, as mentioned in the archives - 5 years, 50,000 miles of use with that method. My 70 year old mechanic said he used to use grease in leaky boxes back when. Nate says absolutely do not do this, will ruin a box due to lack of lubrication to intricate parts. If I were to name the malady I have been experiencing, it would be bump jerk, describing the aforementioned problem, not a pimple faced boy with an attitude. Thank you all. KentC
Wandering Age in front end men means _nothing_ I am sad to report . If you grab the front wheels @ 9:00 & 3:00 and can feel any play , it's going to wander and follow pavement cracks and ridges to ~ this can be *extremely* dangerous Use only the DEALER seal in the steering box ! . STP or other thick , EP lube but never , EVER grease unless you have a death wish . You have described drag link play , the heavy springs inside it often break , I used a second hand one in my '49s original drag link and it's cherry again . I don't like to put 10 # load on a 50 + year old worn steering box , you might , I think that's unwise ~ pay close attention to my warnings about tight spots as too much preload on a box with tight spots causes catastrophic steering failure always a bad thing . Any small looseness in the spring bushings makes BIG steering changes going over bumps . There should be two tiny caster wedges , one on each side , between the front axle and the spring , they go in from _behind_ ONLY ! 1/16" toe in maximum . Beware of wider tires , they wear out everything and make it " steer like a truck " and AD's were SOLD on steering like cars... I hope this helped .
Steering box I did per Nate's instructions for tightening steering box slop. I can tell a difference. I did notice I need to replace the wheel bearings too, too much play for me. Suggestions on purchase from Naap or Autozone, or other? The front end does appear pretty tight now. I used STP and will see how that works on my leaking steering box problem (with a new seal). Also I noticed a section in the manual on the large bolt coming from the front of the steering box. Do I need to adjust this one too? I do appreciate the help and comments. Kent C
Steering Box & Wheel Bearings If you decide to adjust the lower big steering box adjuster , you'll need to make up a tool out of a nut that fits in it then weld a bit of metal to that for a handle as holding the adjuster aganst movement whilst you snug up the locknut is as always , critical . You'll also need to loosen the other adjustment 1/4 turn or so then use the fishing scale to adjust the drag.... I prefer the original typ ball bearings in the front wheels , kinda $pendy these days tho' , make sure they're bad before replacing them as they're often fine , just dirty and loose . Replace the grease seals in any case . I've written comprehensive wheel bearing service notes before , the main thing is to NOT leave them tight ! use the torque spec. to set the bearing then adjust to zero play....
Wheel bearings Not dirty, I cleaned them when I saved it from a sand dune. Loose, yes, but I tighten and they still have some play, not a safety hazard immediatley, but too loose for me. Yes, each wheel is about $60, outside, inside bearings, inside race, and inside seal. But I want to check around, Naap is often high. After you comment, I think I will loosen off one notch, probably tightened it too much - until I get the bearings replaced. Any suggestions on other leaf springs besides C.D. Thank you. KentC
Front Wheel Bearings O.K. wait a minute , you have a problem there as ' too tight ' and ' some play ' CANNOT go to-gether ! I bet the play is in the king pin bushings , check it out . I assume you know you adjust the bearing play by snugging up the locknut whilst spinning the brake drum..... once it's set to zero play , back the nut just enough to insert the cotter pin and ALWAYS use a new cotter pin unless you want to learn what " tits up in the ditch " means..... If it's correct there will be no discernable play on the brake drum although the entire brake plate and spindle often has a few thousands of movement... I realize the original castle typ locknuts didn't have sufficient slots for the cotter pin so sometimes you must needs leave a skosh too much play , I'd bet taking the old nut to a trailer supply place or the HELP ! aisle @ Pep Boys , Kragen / Shucks etc. would result in a new castle nut with more cutouts but watch the thread pitch ! . As far as leaf springs , try Eaton or Didamond , last thing I knew , JC Whitless was selling Diamond springs pretty cheaply... If this is the 90,000 mile truck , I'd take the old springs apart beginning with the passenger side front one to see if really worn out or what before Spending my Lolly for new ones .
