I'am in the process of rebuilding a 1980 gmc short bed step side. I just installed a 1989 small block w/efi and 2 1/2 in exhaust and 700r4 in the truck. The only problem that I had was finding a good fuel tank for this CHEEP, but I decided to go with a poly tank in the bed because this will just a toy to with on the street. The other problem was the fuel pump, that was solved by installing a inline fuel pump from a (omg ford) truck, and it worked out great. The truck run good and is great on gas mileage as a side benfit.
I've been sick, so todays my first day back to the computer. It's cold here and I also found another problem while driving the truck, no rear brakes. So now I'am doing a rebuild on them. As soon as i can I take some pics of the truck to post. It does look real good right now what with the back on jack stands and no wheels and tires on it.
How CHEEP is the tank, what size what type & for what, where did it come from.?? Tank pic's would all ways be good. Oh love to see your truck pic's Pontiac1976
Ok! I'am back and I have a new problem, now I having problems with the rear brakes. T rear brakes don't seem to work so I tried to bleed them and got now where so I replaced the wheel cyclinders and still could get fluid to come thru. Now I think it may be the combination valve, does anyone know if this is a parts store part or if their is a rebuild kit for this part. Also the tank that I bought was a swapmeat part for $100.00 and I spent another 100.00 on a inline fuel pump and about 25.00 on line and clamps. I still havn't taken any pics of it because it is still on jackstands and pretty dirty because it outside in the cold and dirt, don't have garage to work in to keep her warm.
If the master cylinder runs dry while attempting to bleed the brakes, air gets in the proportioning valve on the upsteam side (master cylinder to pro valve). Usually this will give a brake warning light on the dash if it happens while the engine is running. When pumping the pedal to build up pressure your compressing air, not fluid. This air will not be released until the rubber button on the pro valve is pushed and held in. The button must be held in until the brakes are blead, and then can be released. All air will be blead from the master cylinder through the pro valve, brake lines and wheel cylinders or brake cali. There is an L shaped tool with a slot cut into it so it can be bolted down to hold the button in while bleeding, it can be fabricated. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/20/e8/0f/0900823d8020e80f/repairInfoPages.htm
