way too cool, thanks again for the pics and details I agree about the sticky thing, this is nice additional information for anyone. Plus its just lots of fun to look at and dream for our own trucks
The doors are hung, front fenders are undercoated, glass is in, seat is in. I will post a new chapter soon.
Here we go. Rear window install: MOST IMPORTANT! Tape all surfaces throughout reassembly. This will help stop enevitable scratches. To decrease the tackiness of tape and the potential to pull fresh paint off, first put it on your shirt. this will pick up dust from the cloth and make the tape easier to get off. Start by taping up around window. Now run the rubber around the opening. Start at the top. DO NOT stretch the rubber, in fact, I try to trim about 1/8 inch long, then cram it into the joint. Rubber will shrink a little over time, if it is cut long, the shrinkage will not pull the joint apart. This is the tool to put the lock strip in. Get the tool started, then insert the lock strip. Start the lock strip at the bottom. I found that the Counter Part rubber was just too hard. I switched to a rubber kit I found at Dave's Truck Parts in Clairemont, NC (828)695-8144, and it was so much easier. I found that window cleaner makes a good lubricant, without leaving residue. After running the length of the window, NOT STRETCHING the lock strip, cut it a little long, Then cram it in... Pull the tape, and enjoy. Put a little weatherstrip cement in the rubber joint to seal it. Now do the rest. This took me about 45 minutes.
Wiper bezels.....Stick the wiper head through the hole.. Grab it and put on the rubber gasket, Now put on the bezel, Keeping tension on these parts while starting the bezel nuts is the trick. Get the nut started, then tighten down until snug to the cowl and won't move. Usually the nut is level with the flat surface on the arm.
I put in a repro gas tank, the old one had all kind of crud in it. Be shure to put the fiber or rubber pads under the straps to prevent wear. Use a little anarobic sealer on the gasket surfaces to help prevent the nice gas smell in the cab.
Windshield Rubbers & Wiper Transmissions Using Steele Rubber Co's products means you'll get American made , endless grommets that FIT , I cannot stress enough how much easier tha job is with good quality rubber grommets... When you re-install the wiper transmissions as above , be _sure_ to have the exterior clean & dry , no dush , then smear both sides of the tiny rubber with clear RTV else it's gauranteed to leak . These how to pictorials are priceless .
Outstanding! I see you used the cheapo tool to install the lock strip. My arms REALLY ached the next day after I did mine. Great job and GREAT photos! Thank you.
Yes, the tool does tend to enduce swearing. I wish I could find one of the ones shown in the shop manual.
This is really helpful and I've bookmarked this discussion for frther reference... hope you keep the pictures coming. You did ask for comments and the only thing I might question is putting the seam for the quarter windows at the top. It may sound like a nit but I would have put it at the bottom. If you do get a leak at the seam you are more likely to get water inside via gravity if the seam is at the top. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's the way I would approach it.
The assembly manual from chevy says to do it at the top. Actually, at the bottom, water sits on the glass at the rubber, then has time to leak in....I guess it could do the same at the top. Oh, well, these things weren't exactly water tight to begin with....otherwise we wouldn't have to replace all these floors, would we? I have more updates, but no time to post them. Hopefully soon.
Always default to the manual. No one knows their product better than the manufacturer. Learn something new every day Great work on your truck... is that Seacrest Green? BTW, ol Chebby brilliant Trompe l'oeil work and I see you're in Charlotte.
Nice to see another nc man. You should come down to the run to the sun in Myrtle Beach march 19 weekend. Come find me.
Lets get back to this.... A hint for installing the running boards..put the bolts through the holes in the mounts.... Then put the running boards on top, insert the bolt heads into the grooves under the running board, swear at the hardware, then tighten down. Assemble headlight bucket. Buckets have been blasted, primed and painted. First pull the grommet through the hole in the back. Now pull the new plug wires through... Install bulb with ring, Install rubber gasket around bezel. and screw into fender. Inner fenderwell anti rattle strip. I put some weatherstrip cement on to hold it into place. This is the cardboard strip. This is the foam strip.Glue on.. Have someone hold the panel for you and bolt together. Now install the fender support. I also put the cloth weatherstrip over the headlight wires. And here is the finished product....do it again for the other side.
Russ, Thanks again. You are a few steps ahead of me and I appreciate the trail blazing. I noticed the rubberized undercoat. Did you apply this over the primer, or did you bother to put the basecoat on first? It seems silly to me to put the expensive topcoat on only to cover it all up with undercoat. My original plan was to put two coats of PPG DBC basecoat on the body parts, assemble them and apply one more basecoat before the clearcoat. When I notice the fender welting, I have to rethink this. It looks like you did all basecoats and the clearcoat before you started the assembly. Is this correct? My working space is so limited, I am really concerned about scratching and denting the fenders before can hand them. How soon after the clearcoat can you put the masking tape on without damaging the surface? Greg
Door assembly. Tape all surfaces to prevent scratches. This is where the rubber window wiper goes. It is usually dried and hard as a rock and broken off. I find that you have to bend up the tab in the middle, then with a flat blade screwdriver, break the rubber into pieces, then feed it out of the channel. Cleaned out. now lube the track. Feed one end, Then the other.. And lock the tab by bending down. I find that the hinges often need some extra adjustment room. I use a die grinder to elongate the holes. Then install in the door. Have someone hold the door and run in the bolts, just snug them up. The bolts in the cowl panel are for the up and down adjustment, the holes in the door are for the front to back adjustment. Give the door a gentle swing to see where it lines up, then make small adjustments till she lines up. The driver's door closed with only 2 adjustments, the passenger door required LOTS of swearing. Now install the latch... And the striker. The striker has up and down adjustment and some front to back. Get it to the best position to get the door to close and latch easily.
Install the door handles from the backside, remember to use rubber gaskets. And install the handle protector. And here we are for the time being.
The green is just a shade off of Juniper Green, the origional color of the truck. It is by Speis Heckler. The semi gloss black on the inner fenders and frame is reduced rustoleum, then the undercoating was applied. I put at least 2 layers of rubberized undercoating for noise control and to help eliminate rock dings into the fender tops.
Give the clear a good day at least to cure before really handling it. If it is warm, set the parts in the sun after the clear has set up and isn't soft. When it is cured, you can tape and handle it. Before you apply the tape, put it on your t shirt to reduce the tackiness and make it easier to pull off.
