Help, Can anyone tell me what leaf spring rearend I can use to replace the old one that will bolt on, and I would like to replace the front end with a-arm disc brake front end. Thanks
Welcome, Jeff! We won't tell you diddly unless you post pictures! (just kidding, of course~) We have ALL KINDS of wonderful reading on just this subject! Do a "search" and you'll find the answers to just about any question that has to do with rear end swaps. Now, how 'bout those pictures?
It's tore down, but I will get them pictures posted. It's an "Old Navy" truck I just purchased and I will be doing a frame up rebuild. Thanks for your response.
Assuming this is a 1/2 ton truck, no later model rear end is a "bolt on" because your truck uses a torque tube drive shaft. If you change to a later model rear end (and there are many that will come close to bolting on - use the search function to find lots of discussion) you'll need to change your transmission to one with a splined shaft output and find/make a driveshaft to fit.
Old Navy??? Oh, ANNNNDY! Jeff, check in with Andy~ I believe he has a similar rig. (Couldn't find a G, so he settled for a C...) As Bill said, iffin you want to go with a more modern, "zoom-zoom" rear end, you'll need to adjust the tail shaft of whatever you have in the end of your tranny. (No big deal...) AND find/build a drive shaft. (It's done all the time...) Good Luck with it!
Hi Jeff, Yup. I have one of those Old Navy trucks. Be CAREFUL. Lots of stuff was cut off my frame and I wound up getting a parts truck and swapping the frame out. If you are talking about a rear end, is it because the torque tube was torched out like it was in my truck? The parts truck I bought had an intact rear, so I used that one. Ask me anything about Old Navy. I'll be glad to help you out. You are going to find lots of things they did to these trucks. They were NEVER intended to drive again, so they people who prepped them for the Old Navy mad them to be display pieces, not drivers. Is your transmission cross-member intact or torched out? Many times even the frames were cut in half, shortened and bolted together to make a short bed truck out of a long bed truck. Look carefully. Andy
Bolt in rear The only rear end that will bolt into your truck would be from a 55 first series,you will need the springs also. It has a open driveshaft also. Chris
if you do still have your original rear end. then i believe for the 1/2 ton's there are a replacement gears that you can drop in and keep the original torque tube. Jim carters may have it as well as our host. there maybe be more out there also
rear end swap Hey Jeff Iam getting ready to do the swap myself. i found a leaf spring 6 lug truck rear end 1969 and up. get new axle perches and maybe new u bolts. do you have a floor shift or column shift??? a 1955 and up trans. I will post after its done. Robert
patricks in casa grande az sells them 3.55 gear ratio for 1947-1953 everyone gets them from him. $450.00 for the ring & pinion gears only good luck. Robert
Hi Jeff, The 54 has a torque tube just like yours- the FIRST series 55 has an open drive line that should fit. Both years have a little better rear ratio--3.90 vs the 4.10 in your truck. I believe both the 54 & first55 have Bendix brakes and someone here can verify that for you-- Good luck. Glenn
Andy, You are soooooooo right on the frame, I think they were giving lessons that day on using a cutting torch, and they used my truck frame for the lesson. Some stuff in my opinion didn't need to come off. (all door hardware, door windows, brake pedal etc.)However, I have it now. Anyway, I have a chevy 350 motor and transmission I am going to drop in it. I will be replacing the rearend and driveshaft, along with the front end. I would like to go to IFS (1/2T) on the frontend, the truck is actually a 3/4T truck. I would like to use a 1/2T rearend as well. Any insight you can share would be greatly appreciated Andy. I am still trying to get pictures on the site. Thanks for replying.
Robert, What did the rearend come out of? Any concerns with width from hub to hub or the center point for the leaf springs. Is there anything I need to look for to make the swap as simple as it can be? It will be a automatic tranmission with a floor shift. Let me know how the progress on yours is going, I might just learn something from it. Thanks
Bill, I failed to mention that the truck is a 3/4T truck, I will be putting in a chevy 350 motor and transmission. And some type of a driveshaft. I have done a search on this and have found ALOT of good information on it. I appreciate any insight you may have. Thanks again
Zig, Thanks for replying, yes it is a "C" a "Old Navy" C, I have a 350 motor and tranny I will be putting in the truck, And I will need to find a driveshaft also to match up with the tranny and rearend. I will post my results later.
Glenn, I think I am going to rebuild and not restore, no motor, tranny or driveshaft in the truck, to much has been taken off or cut off, I will be putting a 350 motor and transmission and a rearend in the 1951 "Old Navy" 3/4T truck. I will keep it posted. Thanks Glenn
the rear end came out of a 72 full size blazer4x4 but i dont think its called a blazer a k5 or something like that its only about an inch or so wider than stock. gears my be 3.73s i have to check again but the new spring perches will have to be redrilled to line up center.keep us posted on your v8 transplant. Robert
You also asked about a front end. There are tons of choices out there and in the end you'll have to decide what's best for your ride. I have a 3600 also and I opted to use the front IFS from a '79. The entire process is quite simple because the subspension from the 73-87 trucks are bolt on. I took mine to a shop and had them to remove about an inch and a half from the middle of the crossmember and the center linkage. By doing this the cross member fits flush against the frame. Otherwise, you would have to use spacers on both sides of the frame. This also pulls in the tires in the fender well. I also installed a set of 3" drop spindles and cut off a coil & a half to bring it down in the front. I tried a set of drop coils but that made it way too low. By going this route you will not be able to use the stock engine mounts without some modifications because it will sit too low in the engine bay. I had a set custom built but you can also use a set of blocks to raise it up or the tube type universal mount. I attached some links to some photos below. Driver side Passenger side Front IFS [Sheet metal on Rear shot
Go get the rearend and driveshaft from where the car/truck motor & transmission came from. You got to have one and this way the speedometer will work and the splines will too.
