I am strategically putting together a future build for my 50 3100. I am probably going to go with a sm350, and a TH350 or TH400. Just wondering what is the proper width rear end and what machines have these? Thanks
You'll also want to decide if you'd like to stay 6 lug or go 5. (Not that you couldn't change things, but if you can get one the way you want it, why not?)
Absolutely.........I did a search and found a lot of people are using early Camaro rear ends. Which I am sure are 5 lug. And you have the option of putting disc's on the rear. I guess I could scrounge up a set for the fronts too. Not sure if they will bolt up to the stock front assembly though, either way I would have to change out the front brakes to 5 lug. Thanks
I am using a 10 bolt from a 1980 Camaro. 3.43:1 gears, and 5 lugs. It is almost an exact width matchup. Most are drum brakes. I am using rear discs from a late model Camaro that are a bolt on. They are complete overkill, and more work to fit, but I wanted them, and they were cheap. In the front I have the stock axle, with disc brake kit from our vendor. It uses 1970's camaro front discs, and I have added an under vehicle power brake booster. It bolts up to the stock pedal setup. There are a bunch of rear diffs that will work. You need to decide on gear ratio, lug nut setup, rear suspension setup, rear brake setup, and how you will use the truck. Then let us know, and we can give you a lot more info to help out.....Mike
Thanks Mike, your set up is probably what I am going to do. Not sure about the disc's though. So the bolt pattern is the same front and rear with the 70 Camaro set up? Is that front brake assembly a straight bolt on, or are there other mods which need to be addressed?
rear diff Yes, the lug nut pattern will be the same front and rear. The front disc kit is a basically bolt on setup. It comes complete with instructions, and is not bad if you have decent mechanical skills. The power booster kit is a bolt on also. If I remember correctly, you do need to modify the brake lines a little bit, as it is a dual master cylinder (much safer). You do not have to use a power booster, however I chose to. Check out www.classicperform.com , for some good technical articles on the brake setup. Mine is also a 1950, and if you keep the stock tranny, you will need to find a later transmission rear cover, and yolk. You will also need to make a driveshaft to fit, and it needs a slip yoke built into it. They also make a stock diff gear kit for these trucks, and 6 lug disc brake setups too, if you prefer to keep stock type wheels......Mike
I am also using an 80 Camaro rear with 3:73 gears and a 700R4 tranny. My rear discs are from a 2000 Firebird and are also a bolt on.
I was running a ford 8.8 from a 90 towncar....these are easy to find, had disc brakes, and fill the fenderwell nicely with a stock steel wheel. I now have an 8.8 independant from a 95 t bird....wow, what difference.
Thanks for the help Mike. I will probably go with a TH400 or 350, and I have a 69 camaro rear end for it. So it looks like a new drive shaft is in order for the switch out. I would like to keep the stock front end, so the conversion you are refering to, looks like a good set up. I especially like the power dual master cylinder set up. I had a 66 Jeep p/U that had a single master, and I lost a rear axle, it took out my brake line in the process.........that equaled zero brakes! Going down hill, I had to ram the truck into the side of the hill to stop it. Don't ever want to do that again! Ron
Does anyone know the width of your diff, axle plate to axle plate? I'm trying to determine l how wide to have a moser built to put a 10 inch wide rim in the rear fenders. I will also be mini tubbing the inside of the bed. I figure a 4.5 offset rim will give me the effect I am looking for.
62" plate to plate. Of course if your truck is a 3/4 ton your frame is 11" more narrow than the 1/2 ton. That way you can have some monster slicks back there.
Why not try to get the rear end, transmission and engine from the same car/truck? The speedometer is geared to the rearend. You can get the whole car cheaper seperate pieces. The neat thing abont chevy is almost all of the bell housing/automatic fit almost any engine at least in the 70s from the Vega 4-cyl, inline 6 and all V8s. You used to get a nice Vega for $75; but ask for the 4 speed transmission and it cost more than the hole car. If you want a sleeper put in a 292-ci chevy inline 6 most will think its the original engine.
This would be a great way to go, which I am looking into now. I already have the proper width rear end, but if I can find a smokin deal on a complete car, I will defintely go that route. I think the 350sm will be the way to go, just because of parts availability, and $$$$. Unless that elusive 327 shows up at my doorstep sme how.
If you're looking for a 327, search your local combine salvage yard. The Massey-Ferguson model 510 had 350's and 327's. I picked up a 350 and a 327 from a local yard-$50 ea. One had a 350 and the other had a factory balanced 327 with large journal $teel crank. Look for a thin, small (6" dia balancer) with holes drilled all over it.
The rear is out of a 1 ton '78 342/1 was shortened to our wheel base, the drive shaft needs shortened about an inch and the brake cables fixed. Hoopers Rear End Exchange in Sun Valley818-897-0952, did the work. Just be sure if you use them and you leave your truck, that their damn F n Cat/s stays out of the cab!!!! I'm still getting a cat piss smell in my truck, must have been a dozen of em using it as a toilet
Thanks Charles! I don't think I'll be taking my truck to Cali any time, but thanks for the warning. Mine presently smells like mothballs, a minor setback considering all the mice that would be in it without them. I've narrowed and welded metric body mounts on dozens of 9" ferd rears for racing, not a big deal with the right jigs, etc. I'd rather pick out an 8 lug rear at the right width if possible though, don't know what kind of a challenge it would be to find the right length axles after narrowing. Certainly don't want to spend $450 for a new ring and pinion plus 250 for installation kit! Just searching for better options..........
