Hey all! I am planning on pulling my original 216 (52 Chevy 3100) for a 235 - have the motor, trans and rear end for the swap. I have seen several 235's done with a two single carb set up - I was wondering about doing a two 2 brl carb setup. Any thoughts on this?
Carb information You can do a search for "Upgrade Carby Thread" on here for some good past information. I'd link it for you, but I haven't figured out how yet. Bob
DO It ! Beacuse it increases the effiency of the world beating Blue Flame engine so much , you'll be able to splinter the rear end easily and burn out clutches rapidly too ~ just like a 283 V-ate only BETTER ! Some caveats : Take the time to source up two identical carbys , I highly recommend Carter YF's , there's scads of older posts in here about them , where to get , how to adjust etc. . If you want to stick with leaky old Rochester Series 'B' carbys (my personal favorite) , you'll have to take 'em apart and ensure both have exactly the same jets and power valve springs & balls , plus the floats must not only match but be set *perfectly* equally . Then , once they're on the engine and you've adjusted the valves , dwell and timing dead nuts , slack the linkages so each carby is loose from the other and the foot feed and adjust to perfect synchronization , this will turn your Dueling carbys into romping stomping DUAL carbys that'll give you more power , smoother runnng and better fuel economy too plus : when you pop the hood everyone will go : OOoooooo ! especially the guys who didn't bother to set 'em up by the numbers and took 'em back off again . You'll be wanting a seperate fuel filter for each carby along with seperate throttle return springs , use soft springs to avoid sticky throttle and rapid wear of the carbys , they're only pot meal . You can use the steel fuel lines off an old double pumper Holly carby to make the install look sano . Once it's done , the carbys DO NOT need further touching ! they DON'T go out of adjustment , just carry spare fuel filters in the glove box or under the seat and change 'em out the instant the paper inside 'em turns brown from the yellow they should be . My last dual carby setup went 40,000 + miles of hard daily driving , long road trips and Road Rallys without needing any touchng nor adjustments , the new owner is still driving them in Az. sans problems and loves it . Have fun and look for the detailed info you may need in the archives .
Obtw : The tranny and read end are the same and needn't be changed unless you want to.... The engine should be painted grey not blue (passenger cars) nor Chevy Orange (SB V-8's) Taking the time to paint it correctly makes your truck stand out and they guys who'll know , will know > Measure the clutch and flywheel from both engines , use the one with the larger diamter clutch and get a diaphragm typ clutch cover pressure plate) , it'll handle the increased power better , last longer and have a super soft & easy pedal to boot .
Nate is correct about taking time to go thru both carbs and make them the same. I was on the verge of removing my B Rochesters until I tore them down and methodicaly rebuilt them together. I am now driving a smooth running 235 with all the low end torque I had ever imagined. Yeah they still leak, but not as much. I like the Ideal of individual throttle return springs and will install one this weekend. I must have missed the memo about engine paint - mine is Chevy Blue. I have also installed period accessories like Fenton headers, Mallory dual point Distributor, Howard cam and polished valve cover (aka Tennessee gofasters). All in all, this truck could possibly be reversed back to stock. Thanks to all who helped and inspired me in this project. -Terry
the rear and tranny are of the open persuasion, and maybe the rear will be swapped with a modern rear with a higher gear.
