my starter when out on my 74 so i ran to auto zone and got a new 1 but now it got a hard start like the timing is off got my timing light and time is good but new starter came with shim never had this prob with a starter change any 1 know how to fix this
Baad, did Auto Zone test your old starter or just sell you a new one? The shim is to get the correct gear fitment between the starter and flexplate/ flywheel and is not always needed.
hay e1 got a ? my 74 has a 350/350 with a rear end out of a 79 now the ? is my 73 has less power with the same engine and Tran i think i know the Tran is the same and i keep buying 350 parts 4 it the whole top in i just put on was 4 a 350 could it be a 305 ?
It could be 305, 350, just from looking at it in a motor bay you can,t tell them apart. You will have to run the numbers on the back left side as it sit's in the truck( driver side back) that will tell you if the block is a 305 or a 350 casting. http://www.mortec.com/location.htm http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm hope this helps id your motor
The 305 came along around 1975. Most of the engine parts on the top are the same as the 350. Same: Air cleaner carb thermostat water neck intake manifold exhaust manifold valve covers distributor timing chain/ cover oil pan oil pump Different: 305 heads/ max valve without mach work: 1.84" 1.94" and up will hit block camshaft grind piston diameter rod thickness crankshaft block bore diameter flexplate/ flywheel starter bolt pattern harmonic balancer
few people tell me look at the timing gear and see where it at because i cant find the numbers on it they are in different place the 1 on my 74 i have to look throw the water pump the 1 on the 73 is in view of the drive side fist 1 is 73 and i know i need a water pump the second 1 is my 74 it hard to see but i could not get a good zoom pic bit it on the back side of pump funny thing is when i bought this truck guy said it was a 327 but i know better i hope and far as i know 327 parts r different but i guess that what i get 4 buying with out look at it first
The most accurate place to find engine size is behind the drivers head, on the block, where the transmission bolts up. The number on the back of my block is 14094766, looking at the following link, it's a 305, made from 88-94. The engine is suppose to be 1986. But someone else has been into this engine before me. May not be the original engine to the truck. http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/sbcid2.htm Another location would be on the front passenger side of the block deck. This location has more info, like engine serial #, vehicle engine went into and assembly plant.
305 cylinder heads also are in lightened in the lower bolt holes thats an easy way to tell if you have a 305 or 350 since 350s didnt have lightened cyl heads
well looks like i got some work ahead of me finding thos numbers lol but then ill know what it is the fun part is finding them this was an old school truck and a lot has been chandge out on it
well I've tried every thing i know of with this starter and still a hard start this truck has a 350 pair and that dam new starter is what is doing it stole buddy stater off his vett and no hard start 4 now hes is letting me use it but that only till this weekend so i got to figure this out any 1 got any ideas
Make sure the starter and block are free from paint and grime where the starter bolts up. There can be nothing breaking the ground. Make sure your engine has a ground between the engine and the firewall and the ground from the battery to the engine is clean also. If the starter from the vette works and your doesn't work very well, take it back and exchange it.
Make sure good ground from the frame to the body too. Check wire make sure it's clean where it hooks up. VERY GOOD WORDS. [/QUOTE]If the starter from the vette works and your doesn't work very well, take it back and exchange it. [/QUOTE] This might be a good idea see it it was a bad starter.
OK i returned the starter and got a new 1 also why i was there i got replacement wire to battery and cleaned all the wires that connect to starter still the same thing any new ideas
A Lot Of the Rebuilt Starters Have the Old Used Starter Heads on Them ( Aluminum on Most ) Sometimes the Bolt Holes Are Wollered out a Bit. Allways Buy new Starter Bolts When Installing a Rebuilt . It Will Make It fit Much Better Because the Old Bolts Most Likelly Have The Swedges Wore off of Them. I Have NEVER Used a Shim on Any Chevy Small Block to Correct a Problem. Only On the Other GM models or Big Blocks . The Other Posability is That Your Flywheel Might Have been Replaced with a Aftermaket Flywheel instead of GM. & That can Caues the Same Problem. But allmost Imposable to tell the Difference Without Taking it out. I Doubt this Helps Any . Just What I,ve found out & I,ve installed 100,s of chevy starters . Found Its Best to Buy Delco Starters NEW with new bolts & GM Flywheel Plates . Best of Luck . Bob
i never buy use or rebuild i always buy new been workin on this prob all morning getting to be a pain but i got it to start clean 2 time thin the starter jammed on flywheel on the 3rd try i lossen the starter and it let go the starter wants to shift over evey time i tightin down on it i tryed the shims but they went back to the hard start again dam i know better than buy from auto zone
OK guy o got the starter to work wright but now it works right the ignition don't it start but will not turn off had to use the old fashioned Chevy kill switch any idea why that would happen
OK guy o got the starter to work wright but now it works right the ignition don't it start but will not turn off had to use the old fashioned Chevy kill switch any idea why that would happen
Baad, you have too many wrong things going on here, somethings don't sound right. The vette starter worked, started and shut off fine. (right) The new starters are dragging and now you have to wire in a kill switch?? Put the vette starter back on and see what happens. Are you trying to put a 305 starter on a 350 or vise versa. The starter shouldn't kick side ways when attempting to engage it. The wire that goes to the (S) switch post on the solenoid should be purple.
no my 74 has a 350/350 daily driver my 73 has 305/350 this is the 1 I'm rebuilding tried the vett starter still no kill on the ignition just start buddy put a brace on the back of the starter to keep it from shifting an that is how we got it to work right he owns a 1970 and that how the shop fix his starter prob btw lol not wired kill switch just messing up my breaks high rpm then break hard kill any old chevy in a pinch