I got the 235 to swap but i don't know which carb is on the engine. Enclosed a picture from the carb. Which type is it? I can't find it on the carb. The plate on the carb says it's a Rochester. Volker
Genuine! If it works good enjoy it if not take it off and soak in carburetor cleaner and tou will find more ID. Looks like an automatic choke may have came from a car engine. It looks great how does it run?
Yes it came from a car, but i want to rebuild the carb and need information concerning the gasket set what i need. And i dont hear the engine for that reason i don't know how runs
You Found it ! Volker , this is the Rochester series'B carby as fitten to all 1955 ~ 1962 Chevrolet passenger cars , now you know what to ask for in a kit . The tube leading over to the intake manifold it the " Choke Stove" and is very important for the proper operation of the auto choke ~ it passes a metered amount of hot air into the chamber where the bi-metallic spring is , be gentle with it as you'll need it on your truck's intake manifold too . Personally I like manual choke better as it comes off quicker and thereby avoide sooted spark plugs ans wasted fuel . To adjust the choke after you've cleaned it , open the throttle a little bit , loosen the screws on the black disc and , whilst holding the throttle 20MM off idle , roate the black disc whilst observing the choke flapper , stop turning the disc as soon as the flapper _barely_ closes , hold the disc as you snug up the three screws . BE GENTLE ! that disc is getting hard to find (TOMCO used to make them) and once you've chipped off an edge it won't heat up proprley so the choke stays on too long... Of course you know to only adjust the choke closure when it's cold , like early in the morning after the engine is 100 % cold . I hope this helps , if it doesn't make the engine spring into life on one turn of the starter , you may not be following the correct cold starting drill , ask and I'll detail it for you .
Oh Yeah ~ I hope you grabbed that entire 235 What's the cylinder head casting # ? it is obscured by the fuel line in your picture .
235 Yes i grabbed the engine complete with bellhousing, starter and other things. I bought in Denmark and the engine came yesterday with my shipper. Now i will rebuild complete and think about double Fenton intake. oooh, i rebuild and will start with the original carby and if its run then i can think about improve the engine. The head # 3835913 but i'm looking for a head with unleaded valves. I will see what's the price because in Germany it's very expensive. Change/Rebuild the valves cost's about $100 per valve Volker
You're In Luck ! Volker , this is your happy day all these engines are made to run on unleaded fuel when new as GM sold many of them to third world hell holes where they didn't have leaded gasoline...... so no need to replace the valve seats , that's what is done to convert to unleaded fuels . You really should replace all the valves with new stainless steel ones (cheap) and also have all the cast iron valve guides replaced , this should be $30.00 per cylinder maximum or you need to find a more honest Machinist. Silicone bronze valve guides are about $9.00 each of you shop around , a good machine shop will have them in bulk and will machine up a set to suit , not a difficult job , just a little time consuming . DO NOT even think about using cast iron valve guides ! Be aware this engine is best overhauled rather than " rebuilt " as usually the crankshaft journals will not need turning , maybe some polishing with Crocus Cloth , and the cylinders will work well with up to .016" taper , voiding the need to re-bore them . New cam bearings of course (this ensures good top end oiling) along with 6 new forged pistons that you'll take the time to balance to ZERO grams so it'll run smooth as silk . When the connecting rods are re-worked , be sure they're all balanced to zero grams too then YOU must check them , usze the free scale at the Bundespost as 90 % of the time the ' machinist ' will charge you $100.00 to balance them then do nothing and lie about it ~ I have done this dance many times over . balanced connecting rods and pistons makes the engine smooth like a V-12 Lincoln and this smoothness pays BIG dividends in tractible power , rapid accelleration , improved fuel economy and last but surely not least , longer engine life . If you drop $1,800.00 into the cylinder head (have the combustion chambers polished & CC matched too) you'll have an engine you cannot believe was designed in 1927.... There ! I've bored you to tears with shop talk , sorry , I got sent home from work for suffering a bad cheast cold for two weeks now and a toothache on top of that My poor suffering nitwid boss must be scared of me by now...
Rochester BC Carburator (automatic choke) Hey Volker A litle bit late answering on your tread but maybe this could be some new information to you if you need to overhaul the BC carburator. The parts you need are easy to get from the carburtor doctor in Canada. Regards Martinius Berg/Norway http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Rochester/B/index.htm http://www.carburetor.ca/ http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/5020mts00.htm
