Did I make a $170 goof-up here? I bought some custom 235 ci stainless headers for my motor. I also got the Fenton dual carb intake. The bottom of the intake is machined for the square bolted mount to the exhaust manifold. I guess this is like a warm air riser for the intake? Are these pieces compatible? What's the downside of not using a stock exhaust that mounts correctly? I don't think I can send them back...did I just cost myself $170? I hate it when I make these mistakes Flashlight
I'd Say You bought some expe$ive scrap metal there , if they won;t take 'em back , try to sel on Flea-Bay , tlk them up , say how hard it is to find Hot Rod parts for Stovebolts etc. .... The cast iro exhaust manifold with an added outlet is still the very best , that's why Chevy used in on the '54'Vettes . I KNOW there's a thread about this in here with pictures....
Dual manofolds Take it to your local votech machine shop class get a blank plate made student gets grade you get cheap machine work
Think FORD. You don't have to have the manifolds joined to heat the carb although I think it is the best method because the heat is tranfered down the runners and helps keep the fuel/air mixture vaporized for better cold start driving. What Ford did and what we have done on several inline six with headers situation is to get the water heated spacer plate that was used under the carb on both the Ford sixes and V8's in the 60's and 70's. The heater hose from the head on a six (not the waterpump) is run first to the plate(s) under the carb(s) and then on to the heater. To keep heat out of the cab in the summer use a "Y" with a shut off valve in the hose going on in to the heater while the other leg of the "Y" lets the water circulate through the plate under the carb. You may have to fab an adaptor between the manifold and plate and then between the plate and Chevy carb but with a one barrel carb that's just a 30 minute job (X 2 in your case). You can use a home made gasket or RTV on the manifold surface but be sure to use the regular base gasket under the carb so vacuum can get to the port in the base.
Relax, the bottom of the intake can be sealed one of 2 ways. A simple piece of metal bolted up with sealer, or go to Patricks web site, and get the heat plate, if the headers have a threaded port to attach the line to. I have seen it both ways. The heat plate is supposed to be the beter way to go......Mike
Thanks for all the info and tough love I did call Patrick and got the heat plate/kit for the fenton intake and then got the fenton exhaust mainfold as well. Will take Nate's advice and sell these to someone wanting a racing look.....Volker where are you? Flashlight
