Valve Cover Gasket

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Wolf, Feb 27, 2009.

  1. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    I can get a new valve cover gasket for my 228 GMC Long long long motor......;) from Napa.


    I was wondering if there is any secret to replacing the valve cover gasket to get it not to leak. i did this once on my ol 80 chevy with 350 and i just sucked it up to say the least.
    Now this one is definitely more accessible. Should i also purchase any other like liquid gasket sealer to help or aid with the install? Is there any other inside information that anybody could help me with the leak?

    Also has anybody else had trouble with an aftermarket speedo? My original cable seems to not fit into the back of the reproduction speedo. Any thoughts on that before i purchase a new cable to see if that helps?


    Also just as an update... I will be dropping off my truck to have the door put back on and some body panels straightened out! Then its off to inspections and the open road:D:cool::D
     
  2. 51 HHR

    51 HHR Member

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    gasket sealing

    For what it is worth I did a valve job on mine back in Sept or so and put the gasket on with "Mold Release" yup the stuff you would spray on a mold when casting parts. It fills in nooks and crannies real well and it is pretty impervious to oils but yet it is water soluable and it makes taking a gasket off easy as it does not stick to the mating surfaces it jsut releases. I have maybe 200 miles on the truck since I did this and no leaks maybea bit of seepage at the coolant neck in the front where there is no real force to hold the valve cover in place. Im not sure where we got the stuff but I imagine it is available at craft stores. IM also sure you will get other suggestions but as funny as it sounds it works. I do recall the reason we have it around is to make seals around windows when the rubber sealant is no longer made or available we just paint it on one of the surfaces and then apply RTV silicone sealant to the other surface and then close the window so it pushes into the space and makes a custom gasket but allows the window so swing open almost like the cowl vent on our trucks open.
    good luck with whatever you use
    Bill
     
  3. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    Bill... thanks for the reply. I will have to check that out, I just didn't want to put a new valve cover gasket on that will leak more then the small seep that i have now.
     
  4. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    forgot to follow up on this thread. I replace my valve cover gasket with a new cork gasket from napa for the almighty 228!!! i used this copper sealant with the gasket. It seals up tight now!!! now leaks at all. i put this sealant on the valve cover and let it get tacky, then put the gasket on and put some more sealant on the gasket and let that get tacky and then put it on the head.

    must have done something right. its nice to win a battle every now and again:p
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Gasket Service

    Well yes but ; how are you going to take it back off again for the next routine valve adjustment ? .

    I am currently enamored of " The Right Stuff " by Permatex , it comes in both tubes and a (much better IMO) aerosol can too and it's amazing in it's ability to seal things .

    I suppose you know the edge lip of the rockerbox must be straight and true or you'll get seems as least and severe leaks most of the time .

    It can be tricky to straighten out the ripples & bends in the lip , as a laddie I used pieces of hardwood to support the underside of the lip then tapped from above with another bit of wood and / or a mallet , now I can use a Mechanic's hammer and not ruin the cover although I scared myself a few times before learning it well . :rolleyes:

    In general I don't like using sealants but occasionally I'll glue a gasket onto the rockerbox lip and let dry before installing , this way I can remove the rockerbox for routine service and not shred the gasket .

    I hope this helps .
     
  6. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    I have installed 2 repro speedos and never had a problem with the speedo cable. Make shure it wasn't cross threaded on the old speedo, ruining the threads. Be shure to lube the snot out of the cable itself to insure it runs smoothly.
     
  7. Kevin's 48

    Kevin's 48 Member

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    What?:confused:
     
  8. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    i ended up getting a rebuilt speedo from a member of this board thanks john;) and sent that repro back. it was pretty easy considering the new cable wouldn't even go into the repro one when i was at classic parts. so they took care of me!

    I will deal with the good seal of my valve cover im sure when i take it back off. prolly end up ruining the gasket, but at least i don't have any leaks.... well ok oil leaks. :rolleyes: I will be needing a new water pump shortly. mine is leaking and the bearings are really really loose:( any suggestions on how to change one for the 228
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Water Pump Service

    Um ;

    Remove the fanbelt , unscrew the pump and give it a yank , take it to NAPA and they'll re-build it for you , scrape off the old gasket and as the HBOL says " assembly is the reverse of disassembly "....... :rolleyes:
     
  10. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    thanks nate.. I will tackle this issue soon after i can figure out what in the world is wrong with my truck. I just wanted some advise, so i could do this without taking the radiator out!!
     
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Thread Drift : Fuel Pumps

    It's dead simple , no worries ! .

    Before you touch the fuel pump , disconnect the inlet fuel line and observe the fuel gushing out ~ it *MUST* be a stream the same diameter as the inside of the pipe and it must make a curving fall , not a 90° drop off dribble ~ in fact , it'll empty the tank pretty quick so be careful as this is GASOLINE and will catch fire easily if you cannot get the line re-connected or corked up PDQ ! :eek:

    This simple (if messy) job is called " Testing The Shiphon " and should always be done whenever the fuel delivery is suspect as crud can collect in the fuel tanks pickup , the AD series of trucks has an open , up facing tank inlet and I've found many to have long sticks , bits of hay , dead frogs , gravel etc. clogging up the tank outlet elbow . if you find poor fuel flow , drain the tank by siphon using a big diamter hose before remving that elbow as it'll GUSH out whatever crap is in there and you WILL NOT be able to staunch the flow before it's running down the driveway to where the mailman just flipped his lit ciggy out :eek: or it'll fill the garage with fuel and vapors just as your water heat kicks on......

    Remember : SAFETY KNOWS NO SEASON ! ;)

    Don't let anyone talk you into an electric pump .

    More on this topic if you wish .
     

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