Hi guys,has anyone tried PRO-15 paint on their chassis , is it easy to work with? what kind prep work? or if there is some other product you guys like , let me know. Your skills mean alot to me, I've already learned alot from reading your threads. as you can see in my photos not real rusty. thanks
Haven't used pro-15 before, but I did my chassis with dupli-color satin black rattle cans. I know this will bring a tear to zig's eye. I etch primed the frame first, then about five coats of satin black and after this weekend it will get another. This stuff is pretty scratch resistant and blends very well. Cannot tell it was a rattle can whatsoever.
It is a very good product. clean off all that is loose and scaly, then wire brush everything else as much as possible. Brush or spray the por15 on. It is a rust encapsulator, and fills small pits and such.
Por-15 warning !!!!! Be aware this stuff is *ermanent* so you *must* lay out drop sheets much larger than the truck unless you're working in the dirt . Any little droplets you get on yourself , will be there until the skin exfoliates (fancy word meaning naturally wears out and is replaced by new skin) so if you work in an office or are the Deacon @ Church you're going to look funny for three weeks at least . Next : if one drop lands on the garage floor or new cement driveway , SWMBO will get PO'd and your sex life wil change in ways you won't like All you needs do is : wire brush the frame until there's NO rust left upon it , so it'll pass the paper towel test , then wipe it clean with clean rags/towels & ether , allow to dry and paint on the POR-15 in gloss black , some will say it'll fade but it won't ~ that was 25 years ago . Once the can is open , you must not close the lid again unless you've lain a sheet of saran wrap over it else the lid will self cement into place , you'll never get it off again . Brushes & rollers likewise , can be used untl they're stiff then must be bagged up and tossed , failure to do so will have a permanent mess on your hands . Wear rubber gloves and old clothes you don't care about, they'll be ruined . All this sounds negative I know but taking the time to follow all the steps and precautions and having the rusty , dented , pitted welded up old frame hospital clean , will result in a nice shiny black job that'll look GREAT and outlast you and any of your grandkids . NOTHING is as good as POR-15 ! . Nor as tricky to use
THANKS . Good advice, I'll be sure to have gloves & drop cloth . I'm sure i;ll have to order it. If anyone's been following I order original parts for my brakes, couldn't find any 5 or 6 lug axles . Thanks again and you all have a good week.
These are real tears here! Now that you see the glory of the "rattle", are you going to paint your cab that way? I guess not~ You've gone beyond that! I did forget... What color will your truck be?
I have been giving Eastwood system a try. Eastwood satin flat system Here is the Eastwood gloss black system Seems to work fairly simple. The rust encapsulator turns the rust matte black finish and fills holes in, then you can paint. I first did the wire brush. I also use a 3.5" wire brush on my small hand held grinder for large areas. Need to hold tight, wear long sleeve shirt & pants. Safety glasses are a must. Some wires tend to fly or break off from grinder rotation. Watch where you point her. But works like a dream on cleaning none fancy painted areas. The both rust encap. & chassis black comes in spray cans, but are very sticky. So use in open area or drop cloth area. Looks and works good! ... no problems so far. Hell the chassis black is so shiny I will be doing the front wheel wells. Extereme chassis gloss black. They do offer a flat black chassis also. A little of this paint goes along way. I bought one extra can of paint for other extras. rattle, rattle ...lol
Eastwood's Rust Encapsualtor Isn't very good , rust will come back in a few years if you live in a humid area .
Hey gang. POR15 is great stuff! I'm using it to protect my 48ER. I used silver for the chassis, cab, and under my fenders. Sorry, Nate, but It is UV sensitive and will fade. The instructions tell you not to expose it to direct sunlight or it will lighten in color. The silver has anyway. That's the prevalent color I'm using so far. However, the color change will not effect its protecting properties. I figured since my truck was inside a garage bay it wouldn't suffer the ills of UV, but light shining through door windows was strong enough to fade the color. I can tell the difference from each coating session. It doesn't look bad, just different. If prepared first, they say you can top coat it with color. They even sell the top coat paint for it. As Nate says, This stuff was made to stick! Make sure you wear gloves and preferably long sleeves. Don't try to hasten the skin wear off time. It only causes rub burns (note to self). Anywho, applied at the right thickness, you will easily see why this stuff is rusts worst enemy. I know, I know, sorry I don't have pictures yet. Applying it on thick through layers does a great job of helping to smooth out pitting.
Please remember This is one tough coating. It doesn't stop rust, so make sure to remove and treat it first. All the above is wise advice.
How about HAMMERITE My guy uses a product called Hammerite that I ordered from Merit Supply in Spartansburg, SC. He used it to coat the frame and all underbody parts. Has anyone else had any experience with this? I assumed it was similar to the POR-15 mentioned here.
