I need to replace my 1983 K30 heater core. Most replacements are now aluminum. They are physically smaller and you need to pack foam around the outside to fill the voids in the heater box. I'm not sure the factory clamps will properly work either. I'd rather not use the aluminum. Does anyone know of a copper/brass OEM replacement non-A/C heater core currently available, manufacturer, p/n? Thanks!
The brass/ copper heater core can still be found at all the auto part vendors (Napa, Auto Zone, Advance), but you'll have to ask to see, open everyone they have to get lucky and find one. Most have totally gone to aluminum. I went through the same thing a couple of months ago. Most heater cores and radiators are made of aluminum because they last alot longer than their brass/ copper counter parts. On another note, all three vendors carried the same heater core with the exact part number. Napa... about $40.00 Advance...about $22.00 Autozone...about $21.00
Thanks and I think you hit it on the head on every point. There are three GM numbers through supercession. All are discontinued although there is some availabilty from GM throughout the country. All should be copper brass. The story starts with a slight leak on my radiator about December of 2008. The radiator may have had less than 5k on it and was new in 2001!? I guess mileage doesn't matter much, it's age. The leak was small and fairly high, so, I didn't sweat it. Come May, I had to tow and didn't want any issues so I ordered a new radiator. I would have initially prefered a copper brass, but, there was no stock. Upon ordering, I specified that I wanted a 5 plate cooler which should have been default for the radiator specified. Upon arrival, it was a 3 plate. So, we sent it back and got a 5 plate. It was a plastic aluminum. The shop explained to me that the life expectancy of a copper/brass is seven years. Gee, I got almost exactly that out of my old one! The aluminum/plastic is rated at 10 years. Personally, I've had two 1989 built S10's that still had original aluminum/plastic radiators in 2008 and 2009 respectively! As the aluminum/plastic radiator fit perfect, should cool better and should last longer, I'm good! At the time I installed the radiator, I pulled block plugs, drained and purged the coolant and proceeded to fill with global anti-freeze that is $7 per gallon at 50/50 mix. Less than three weeks later, my heater core let go! I just bypassed the core with an inline nipple as the heater and defroster were not terribly important at this time. I ordered a heater core from the same shop. It came in and guess what. It's aluminum. Well, it is physically smaller. I'm not sure that the factory clamps can be used as original to hold it in the box because of the smaller size. Additionally, the core is not as wide nor will sit flush on the back of the box. Because of the gaps, the blower motor will blow air around the core as much as it will blow through it. Although there were no instructions included, I concluded that the sticky back foam included in the packaging was to pack around the core to fill the voids. Well I guess that's all fine and good and sounds good on paper and good enough for a customers car. As this is my truck that I plan to own forever and personally build and maintain my own vehicles from the ground up, I have an true hands on understanding of how these redesigned replacement parts really work. I'm going to pass on this aluminum heater core because it does not fit properly, and will not work properly without the foam. The foam will temporarily seal the core and it will initially work well. I assume the foam supplied will deteriorate like any other foam (like headliners). That is, if it lasts that long. As I live in the country, I constantly have mice looking for nice homes. One of their favorite places it the heater box, especially the winter. I actually found a dead mouse in the heater box when I pulled it. I think I trapped him in one of the doors leading to his demise, accidental trap. The foam included with the aluminum heater core will provide a very convenient material for the mouse to shred up and make a home with. So, can you see why I will not use it. Do you think the engineers who design the replacement solutions consider these realities. Engineers who work for independent companies not part of OEMs that sell to OEMs but not governed by them, American Axle, Visteon, soon AC/Delco Delphi! Thanks, I'll take the OEM part. I have my local GM dealer getting me one from Arkansas. I also won one on ebay that was cheap, a Four Seasons product that is Supposedly Copper/Brass (probably old stock). Wish me luck!
Jeff, Excellent suggestion. The shop I actually go to can do this but it is usually not cost effective. Although, I didn't ask and they didn't offer! We'll see how it works with the two I ordered. Gregg
Just a warning don't mix copper and aluminum. Make sure they are the same material otherwise the galvanic corrosion will eat the aluminum. It will act like a battery.
Good point but I am led to believe that this is more of an issue with use of water versus antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors. Furthermore, two 1989 manufactured S10's I had/have still had/have OEM aluminum radiators twenty years later, one at 166K and the other at 267K. Both had/have copper heater cores OEM, the 166K core was changed in 2007, the 267K was original, so far as I know. I actually ran a steady diet of junkyard antifreeze from 2001 to 2008 on the 267K S10 beacause of a leaking newly rebuilt water pump. At time of disassembly, I found one weeping block expansion plug and the aluminum heater nipple was corroded nearly all the way through at the threads.
