I was wondering how to reduce the play on my steering. I have a 64 Chevy, and have a good inch or two of play at the wheel. How can I fix this? Also, has anyone bought a drop kit from Chevy Duty or b r o t h e r s ? Any recommendations? Thanks. Regards, Arizona64 }>
Hi Arizona, That is a tough call given it could be a lot of things causing the play. Sloppy gear box to worn out suspension components such as tie-rod ends, idlerarm, control arm bushings etc. Pick up a factory service manual, you will need the 63 and the 64 supplement. there is a whole section on steering diagnosis and corrective actions. The service manual saves a lot of time and therefore- MONEY ! Regards, dvalentine
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Feb-15-02 AT 10:01 PM (CST)]Chevyduty has reprints of the 63 plus the sup. need. You may also try ebay. I found an original 65 suppliment for $11.00 but I have not found the 63 yet for a realistic price.
I don't know if a 64 model is the same as a 60 model, but on the 60 there is a slotted shaft with a lock nut on it that is used to adjust the play in the steering sector.Its a trial and error type thing, if you over adjust, the steering wheel will return to nuetral as if its connected to a rubber band. Also if you over tighten, you will cause the steering sector to wear out quicker, sort of like when you over tighten a rocker arm, it wears out the cam lobe. The way I got the results I was looking for in my case was to adjust the shaft to where I thought it was right and then I backed it off a little. Butch60stp
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Feb-21-02 AT 03:38 PM (CST)]Hey Arizona... There are typically two adjustments on the box, "worm bearing adjustment" and the "pitman shaft". Most of the boxes I've seen are the Saginaw type (a raised "S" cast into the side of the box), so the info below should help. I don't find the '63 factory service manual or the '64 supplement much help when it comes to the 4x4 trucks though! Like Dave and others have stated... looks like you may have some worn parts that need to be replaced. Some adjustments may help but it won't fix it. I would recommend that before you make any adjustments that you mark (scribe) the current position of your pitman arm and pitman shaft so you have a reference. Also have your front wheels straight, jack up the front and put jack stands under the alxe. Remove the left tire for easier access. 1)Remove the pitman arm from the steering box. Make sure the steering box bolts are tight. 2)Turn the steering wheel slowly from one side to the other. DON'T BANG IT OR FORCE IT, CAUSE YOU CAN DAMAGE THE BOX!!! 3)If it feels rough when turning the steering wheel, that usually means the parts in the box are worn or faulty. If it's hard to turn or binding it's probably excessive worm bearing adjustment or the steering shaft (column) is mis-aligned. 4)Turn the wheel gently all the way to the left (or right). This takes the box off the "high point load". 5)With a spring scale (I've used a light, 0-25Lbs, fishing spring scale, also useful when setting up the pre-load on the steering knuckles)measure the pull required to keep the wheel in motion. Light duty boxes should be in a range of about 1/2 to 3/4 lbs. Heavy duty boxes about 1-1/2 to 2 lbs. Note: adjustments made with the correct lube installed. 6)Loosen the worn bearing adjuster lock nut and turn the adjuster until you get within the limits. 7)Tighten lock nut and recheck pre-load. Adjust the pitman shaft pre-load next. 1)Loosen the lock nut and turn the lash adjuster screw in. Go in small steps here, like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut and rotate the steering wheel back and forth through the entire range. Go easy and don't "Bang" it from side to side! If the lash can't be reduced (or eliminated) or if the gear load feels rough it's probably time to replace some internal parts. 2)Center the steering wheel, equal number of turns left to right. 3)Attach the pitman arm back up to the box and tighten the lock nut. Hope this helps,
