Is it normal for the cylinder head on a 235 engine to weep/leak oil? It is not leaking bad just notice it around the head in a couple of areas after running the truck for a while. Truck runs fine. I run synthetic 10/30 in the truck. Thanks, Robert
Synthetic oil? Hello Robert, synthetic oil in an old engine, thats dangerous. Because as the engine was build there was no synthetic oil in use. This oil is to watery. All seals will sooner or later leak. Your are driving a classic car! Use mineral oil 10 W 40 or better 15 W 40. Wolfgang
Head Leaks _where_ (be specific) is the leak ? . Is it leaking or is it seeping ? . You must always remember that your 235 is 1940's technology ~ it's the very BEST of it but still and all.... It leaked the day it was installed into the truck and always will . Synthetic oils seep & creep moreso than do Dino oils but they're the very best thing for your engine as they stop the wear cycle pretty much dead wherever it is . Unless you're rich or foolish , this is to your advantage .
Good place for the annual discussion on different lubes. I am comming up on a Oil change. I thought I had made a decision to use Valvoline VR-1 (Zinc Rich). I got this from Patrick as I don't have many original thoughts. He says that the EPA has made the suppliers remove so much Zinc that it can damage the engine and fairly quickly. He recommends the VR-1 because it is one of the few Oils to retain the Zinc at high levels. Anyone want to chime in on this because I'm no expert on Zinc and its protective properties. I do respect Pat's opinions however. Flashlight
Re: Zinc content You might check out this article. I have always put a lot of faith in the editors of Hot Rod magazine. http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/index.html
Good Oil O.K.,the deal is : Zinc fouls catalytic converters so the Feds mandated it's removal or reduction. If you learn the alpha code for _diesel_ rated oils and simply buy that , you'll be fine . Shell Rotella , Chevron Delo 400 etcetera . Just read the label . Zinc is necessary to prevent the cam lobes from getting scuffed and wearing flat , like 1970's vintage Chevy 350 CID V-ate engines did when new because GM was too cheap to properly harden them . You want thin oils in these oldies so it gets up and out of the pan quickly . I seem to have misplaced my flame suit but no worries , let the oil thread flame wars begin !
It seems to just be seeping out slowly along the edges of the gasket not everywhere just in a couple of areas. The front left side facing the engine and a little along the middle left side of the head. I have attached some pics. I just didnt know if this was normal. As I said the truck runs fine and does not lose much oil. Thought about re- torqing the head bolts to factory specs. Thanks for the replys. BTW didnt mean to start up an oil discussion!!!! Robert
Nate, Not only did you misplace your flame suit, but are fanning the flame as well. Do you have an alibi for when those LA Fires broke out? I think I can use my John Deere Diesel oil in the truck then, its a beautiful life! Nate when you say thin...how thin, 20w-50w?
Never change a runing system Hello, we had the same discussion in a German classic car forum. My English isn't good enough to be a full member in this discussion, but I'll try. Synthetic oil in old engines it is good or even bad. If you think about when is your engine build, than realise that the clearance of all bearings in the engine are much larger than in modern motors. That have consequences. Thin oil comes better to the parts but it creeps also quick away. In a article of a German classic car magazine they a specialist of an oil company. He said, that sysnthetic oil washes your old engine clean. It solves particels of old oil residues in the block. These particles can be destroy your engine as they come to rest in the bearings. They work there as emery. These specialst said use oil that was in use as the engine was constructed. I think he is right, not always modern things are better than old ones. Your engine has run for several years and it has to work hard, why change a running system?
Synthetic In Older Engines This is pretty much a red herring ~ it's only a problem in ancient engines that are fully sludged up by parrafin based oils , not many of those left . the way to handle it is : as I always remind you , only change the oil when it is BLISTERING HOT ~ not just warm , fully heated up so it'll burn your hands if you're not careful , then re-fill it with synthetic oils and drive it 50 miles or so and HOT change it again ~ if there was any sludge (yes, synthetics are incredibly detergent) , it'll go roaring out in the oil you just drained . The _only_ engine failures I was able to track down were elderly Porsche and VW air cooled engines that some retarded owner had not changed the Dino oil in for years and years as they were " Hobby Cars " and since there's no real milage put on them , why wa$te $$ changing the oil , right ? dumba$$es deserved a blown engine , I'm just sorry it was a good one . So : to recap : DO use synthetic oils but pay attention to the detals and do it right , never have to rebuild it again..... To answer Wolf's question WHY ? : so it'll last forever , that's why . No disrespect to the slide rule guys but we have to deal with reality , not the laboratory .
Oil Leaks Well ; it's not clear from those pix that it's leaking out between the cylinder head and the block , a very rare occurranc in 5's and it won't be stopped by re - torquing the head in any case . I's clean it hospital clean then puff some talc on it , run it and watch to see where the talc darkens , that'll be the oil leak . Remember too : oil will often travel a long ways before making a serious stain so it can be really tricky finding the true leak . I hope this helps .
Not sure were else it could be leaking but I will clean it up and take another look. Dont think it was seeping until I switched to synthetic. Thanks for the replys that had anything to do with the question.
