I need to replace my master cly...I think. When I am at the traffic light holding my brake the pedal gets stuck and I have to pull it up. Is this a sign the master cly is not releasing? I replaced it about 15 years ago and the master cly in the truck is a year or so behind it's model year. I have a 1953 however I think the MS is a 50 or 51. I would like to go with one that bolts to the bottom of the truck. Question has anyone installed one that just bolts right in without modifications?
Mc Thanks for welcoming me to the forum Yes the return spring is in place the plunger in the MC is sticking it has happened before and I replaced the mc. I am looking for a nbetter mouse trap
Update to Dual MC ? Our host has an adapter bracket kit that will adapt for using a modern dual MC, which I did for safety reasons... If the budget will stand it it's a good idea. Mounts under floor like original. I used a Mustang II MC. BTW, welcome. I've been off line awhile, but am now retired and will try and look in once in a while.
Sticky Pedals This is usually caused by either the cab settling so the pedal rubs against the side of the hole it passes through in the Toe Board , -OR- The bushings inside the pedals (both) are worn out allowing them to rub and drag . Once in a while failure to grease the pedals (yes , they both have Zerk fittings hidden under all the old grease) will cause them to drag and bind down The master cylinder should not be able to hold the pedal down even in the rare case it's piston sticks in the bore . Pull the rubber boot away from the master at it's bottom edge , being careful of your eyes , if you see ANY wetness , the master is bad and needs replacing / rebuilding . Your '53 has a Bendix mater , will prolly say " Wagner " on the new box though . You local NAPA store should either have it or be able to get it in a day or so . Remember to buy a least one quart of new DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed each wheel until clean fluid comes out .
i just rebuilt my MS a couple weeks ago.. the rebuild kits are inexpensive, and the rebuild went easy.. and seems to be working well... while i had it out.. was able to clean it all up under there and get the old GLOBS OF STUFF off the pedal shaft and get it greased back up.. checked the pedal clearences, and repalced springs etc.. so for about 20 bucks and a saturday.. you should be able to get the one you have up and running again.
great posts I have not greased my pedal zerks, I will look into that and I did have a problem with the brake pedal stem was rubbing the floor. ( I have replaced the floor there) so that's possible.
Pedal Drag It only take a little bit of drag to hold the pedal down as the return springs are mild and rightly so ! .
I had an issue with the pedal dragging on the firewall hole. Adjusted the bolt holding the shaft on at the bend, all is well.
