I am in the process of installing the grill. I didn't take the grill out so I have no reference on the screw sizes that hold it in. I ordered a new grill that was suppose to come with hardware, but none was there. I know the bolt sizes because of the weld nuts on the grill, but it's the screw sizes I don't know. It looks like one uses clip nuts on the grill. Are they all the same size or are some of them lags, like 1/4 size. I searched the forums both here and stovebolt but can't find the info. Sure would appreciate some help! I've got this week off to try and finish the truck (wishful thinking), or I would order a kit from our host. Thanks guys. Maybe someone has a kit and could look at it and let me know the sizes and quantities. If it uses different sizes I need to know where the sizes go too! I know, I should have checked and made sure the hardware was there, SHAME ON ME!!!!!!!!!!! JESSE
The majority are sheet metal screws, not bolts. Most are 1/4 x 1" long with a 7/16 hex head. The ones around the sides and bottom screw straight into the metal while the ones where the hood striker panel bolts to the grill/fender have clips. They also use screws with the exception of the bolts that go through the panel into the core support/fender brace are 5/16 course thread with 1/2" hex heads. I'd go to a fastener place like Fastenall and get a hand full of the above bolts and try them in several holes. Leave a couple in to position it and then try the remaining holes. Make a list of holes that are either too large or too small for the 1/4 x 1 metal screws and buy exactly what you need on the second trip. We discard the factory screws and replace them with plated screws to cut down on rusting.
Thanks for the advice. That is exactly what I suspected and that is exactly what I will do. I guess, knowing that you guys throw the factory ones away, they did it for me!! When I get the grill in I'll post some progress pics, if that's cool?
We love pix !!!!! ' Cool ' ? more like MANDATORY ! (note clever use of Chevrolet Blue there Remember to leave all those mryad bolts & screws loose until you get a screw or bolt is every hole , then you can shake , giggle , force , curse it all into proper alignment... My poor old '49 was missing 4 out of every 5 fasteners in the entire front end from the DPO's painter , it was quite a job to get them all back in , like Evan says I just grabbed handfulls of 1/4" screws and had at it . don't forget: every screw wants a nice flat washer underneath it's head to retard cracking .
Well, it's like you said, 5/16 bolts on the sides and a couple on the bottom and top. Followed by some 1/4 hex head screws filling the rest of the holes in the top and bottom. If that wasn't enough of a monumental effort to get them all started without cross threading, I got to do it twice. I forgot to put the front lower baffle to rad core bars in the first time. And no the second time wasn't easier. After all that, I started the hood alignment. That's another fun job! I studied the procedure decribed in the service manual and the ones here and on stovebolt. Reading it is like trying to interupet the hyragliphs. I started out by doing just what Nate said not to do, Catch the hood spring on the upper baffle hole and spend 30 minutes getting the hood open again. I took the spring thingy off for the first part of the alignment. The book says 1/8 to 1/4 gap at the back at the cowl. Mine is still fighting me, I finally stopped, popped the top on a cool one and sat and just looked at the truck. After finishing several Adult beverages It dawned on me that I need to make the hood fit it's hole exactly like I want it to and then bring the rest of the front end to the hood. Last night I made the holes at the rear of front fenders a little larger ( a bi_ch with the fenders on). This AM I am elongating the hood hinge holes at the cowl to get the hood back a little more. Then I'll play with the core support height with a jack until I get it all dialed in. Hopefully by this afternoon, I'll post pics of the hood fitting like I want it, or me consuming more Adult beverages sitting and thinking again! Thanks for the comments so far, that battle goes on! Jesse
Ok, I've worked on this thing all day and don't feel like I'm too much better off than when I started. Tomorrow when I get off I'll hit it again. I'm posting some pics to show what's not good yet. Advice will gladly be accepted. The hood on the pass side needs go down and back for the corner too look good, but the gap on the top cowl is good now. The Driver's side fender needs to come forward some to make the front smooth to the hood. Both of the fenders need to come up in the rear to close the horizontal hood to fender gap, but the part of the fender that wraps under the truck is already touching. Time for another adult beverage. Help!!
The best cure is...walk away! Get your head straight. Look at each component and figure out what needs to be shifted forward, what needs to be shifted back, "do I need a body washer here, could I flatten it there?" Remember that the entire front end alignment depends on the placement of the radiator support and a slight tweat here and a major twist there will get it done. Don't expect perfection because it won't happen! The difference between 1/4" on the left side and a fat 1/8" on the right side won't be noticible to anyone but you, and that is what will make your truck yours!! Chill and it will come!! Been there, done that! Ken
If you get really good at this please contact me, we would find someway to put you on the payroll. It is a trying job (pun intended) that consumes hours of effort. Having been to a rodeo or two and seeing the monkey in the cowboy suit ride on the big dog we have become a little smarter (emphasis on "little"). BEFORE we install the engine we have the smallest guy in the shop jump in the engine bay to watch from the inside. We take everything off the hood---hinges, latch & plate, striker plate with the female part of the latch, firewall to fender brace rods; EVERYTHING. We then set the hood in it's position and adjust the core support, both at it's bottom mount and where the fender brace bolts on. The fender to firewall brace rods are installed. The upper and lower hood plates/latches are in stalled and lastly the hinges. At each step of the way the hood is tested for fit and if any misalignment occurs then it is the LAST step you did that caused it. Much easier to know exactly when it happens and what caused it. After all fits decent we use a very small drill bit to drill a hole through the adjoining pieces so the same drill can be inserted through the hole on final assembly and thus position things exactly as before. This can be done next to existing holes so the pilot hole is covered by a bolt head and/or washer. Lastly GM DID NOT CARE about panel fit so crooked gaps are almost necessary to qualify as original factory condition. Here is one that has been "gapped" at every panel: hood, doors, side air vent, bed to running board filler panel to fender, etc. It is very expensive to have done and I like the idea that the hoods job is to keep the ignition from getting wet.
Well Jesse ; The simple fact of the matter is : your truck looks about like 9/10ths of every AD ever made as Chevy really didn't care about panel fittment when every truck they made was sold a few MONTHS before they made it ~ your ability to get it this close means the jig work when the welding was done way back when , was pretty close and few were . Me , I'd leave it , I'm impressed you didn't chip that beautiful paint.
Thanks for the reply's. I woke up this am about 4 am and just thought about the stuff tht makes it all come together. When I get home from work today I'll attack again. More later!!
Beautiful truck! I can't wait 'til I'm at that spot in the assembly~ That is a beautiful truck you're putting together!
If you are that anal about gaps.....you shouldn't mess with these trucks. If everything closed and latched it passed inspection. If you look closely, you will usually notice that the curve at the bottom of the hood doesn't actually match the curve at the top of the fenders. The passenger door usually hangs out at the bottom just a little, and getting a perfect gap around the doors takes a lot of grinding and welding. It can be done, but is labor and $$$$ intensive.
Watch that antenna Jesse - Beautiful paint job and great looking truck. Be cautious raising the hood to full up...Don't ask me why. I put a piece of rubber gas line on the antenna at the contact point.
Listen to what Russ (Ol' Chebby) said. He told it like it is.When these trucks were built,close was good enough. It looks bettet than 95% the ones that I have seen.If you get it perfect you will be afraid to use it.Looks good,finish it and have fun.
Those hood gaps look great. I'd call it a day before more fiddlin' causes scratches and chips. Make shure the leading front corners don't touch the fenders, or the typical chips will occur.
The drivers side looks perfect. Looks as if the radiator support is shifted to the right may close the gap in the cowl. If the radiator support is not right nothing else will be. When every thing is just perfect the hood will bang off the paint when closed hard. Chips at the corner of the hood and fender fronts are the gold star and mark of perfection for drivers. Save some of your paint for touch up in finger nail polish bottles. I bet the engine is already in! Try some cheeper beer cause a 6 pack wont doit, try the large economy 30 packs and call some friends for help.
I like the beer bottle photo also! Then there is always that box wine... That has helped me get over a few things also... Like the front of my GMC!
Thanks again for all the comments, including me being Anal. I know I am somewhat anal but I've learned to live with it, and so have my friends. My contention is that I love these ol trucks and they deserve to be as good as I can make them with the skills I have and with what I have to work with. They may not have been perfect from the factory, but there is a lot of tweeken' that can be done with out going over the top. I'm not throwing a lot of money at it, just my time and effort. It's gettin' closer to something I'll live with, it may be there today. I'll post pics if I get it. By the way, this is to be my daily driver, I'll sell my rice burner PU when this is done. Thanks for postin' Jesse
