Synthetic oil change

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by JW 54, Mar 31, 2010.

  1. JW 54

    JW 54 Member

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    I just changed my engine oil, transmission oil and differential oil. I used synthetic oil in the motor and synthetic gear oil in the trans and differential. Draining and refilling the motor oil was easy but the rear end was a bit time consuming. I drained part of it by removing the drain plug, then I used a turkey baister with a peice of tubing attached. This worked well but removing a couple ounces at a time is slow work. I noticed a change in shifting immediatly. Very smooth. Weather also awsome for a drive.
    JW
     
  2. Wolf

    Wolf Member

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    I also did my transmission, just with clean regular gear oil, and yeah it does make a huge difference in shifting. I bet synthetic would be even better. Mine was really nasty, so i am going to run this regular oil through it for a bit, then switch to synthetic. Glad to hear it worked out for ya.
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Synthetic Oils

    Just be aware that they seep more than do Dino oils so don't forget to check the level and top it up again as needed in two months regardless of how few miles you drive it .

    Not only will it shift better , the wear will stop pretty much dead wherever it is , ths is true for engines as well as rear ends and trannies .

    I have several old klunkers that are only still running because I switched them over to Synthetic oils years & miles ago .
     
  4. codyfox

    codyfox Member

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    Nate,
    So in my 53 (350 engine out of an 86 Blazer), I should try and switch to Synthetic? I didn't know if that would be worth it....

    Any input?

    Cody
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    I surely would , after doing all the basic tune up things to ensure it's a good running engine .
     
  6. JW 54

    JW 54 Member

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    Drip from drain plug

    I see a few drops off the tranny drain plug today. I'm not sure if it's from the plug or from above. I'll have to check it out further. I have the plug good and tight. I don't want to torque it to much.
    JW
     
  7. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    DON'T Over Torque It !

    The drip is to reassure you it still has some oil in it...... :rolleyes:
     
  8. LTurpin

    LTurpin Member

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    Changing Over

    I think all of this talk has convinced me to switch over to synthetic. I was told by my "father-in-law" that I need to flush my engine after draining the reg. oil. He says if you don't do this, the residual oil that did not drain out will not bind properly with the synthetic. I have never heard of this, and don't believe him, Anyone else ever heard this.

    Also I replaced my gear oil in the trans last summer with reg gear oil. Made a huge difference in how the old beast shifted. Think I might switch to Synthetic gear oil as well. I also add Motorcoat to my engine, trans and rear diff.
     
  9. Bobby 57

    Bobby 57 Member

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    Keep in mind if you have a slight oil leak (rear main seal) and may become a larger oil leak.If you have a leak and change to synthetic proceed with caution.Other than that synthetic oils are a great investment.
    Bobby
     
  10. Blueflame236

    Blueflame236 Member

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    Flushing engine and Motorcoat product

    Changing reg.oil when engine is at 180 F. open up bottem screw and let drip out engine oil a half an hour or so . Then change oil filter as well. Molycoat protective oil is not really needed as this normally is added in synthetic/halvsynthetic oil. Viscosety is much higher then reg. mineral oil and synthetic additions keeps the oil at normally use longer optimal. You can easely drive 15-20.000 km with an fully synthetic oil if not driving a tow truck or heavy loads daily.
    Use the old mecanic trick here to to dip some oil on your thumb to check its smoothyness/resistance and smell the oil to, look at the color to. Put an oil reminder sticker on the doorpole to.
    Flushing engines would be advicable if this whas an high performance or high compression/turbo engine , but not really whith the regulair 6 cyl. 216 or 235 /higher CI. Flushing engines is guite expensive to, but the results are good if properly done it gives an long lasting effect. Changing back to mineral from synthetic is not advisable as the oil clutters more easely inside the engine. Once using synthetic you have to continue to use it. Older 40-50 tees engines with bronce/yellow copper parts inside should not use synthetic oil as the oil eats its way in to it and warns it out.

    Good luck Martinius

     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2010
  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Urban Myths Mostly

    Synthetic oils are incredibly detergent so no flushing is needed , that " it won't " mix B.S. is just B.S. from a scared old person who is afarid of Synthetic oils .

    No troubles with bronze parts eiher , only a very few problems were ever encountered and that only with a formulation that's no longer made .

    Always hot change any oil ! this is very important .
     

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