Brakes / lowering questions 3600

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by MentalClinic, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. MentalClinic

    MentalClinic Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Sweden
    Hello guys!

    Im getting ready to start the resto on my 1949 3600 truck for the first time. I have got the lights working and started it up and drove it in the garage. Cool!

    But I have no brakes (only handbrake). I want to lower it with a droppedaxle and lowering blocks in the rear and a newer axle (ratio), in the near future. Want to run orginal style steelrims with whitewalls.

    But now to the problem! Im going to change all the brake parts to new, but since I have a 3600 truck, it have bigger brakes and 8 lug wheels right? Is it possible to convert to 3100 brakes? So I can run 5 lug wheels in stead. Because the newer rear axle im going to put in is also 5 lug. It will look better with 5 lug wheels on all 4 corners. :) And it will be easier to find 5 lug steel wheels too!

    What should I do? (i dont want to put in a new front clip).
    Thanks for advice and help.

    /The Newbie
     
  2. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Why did you buy a 3600 if you wanted a 3100 in the first place?
     
  3. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2002
    Messages:
    2,744
    Location:
    Fredericksburg TX
    Why not replace your front axle with a 3100 front axle? I think spacing for the springs is the same. People on this forum that are a lot more AD savvy than I should be able to confirm.
     
  4. jhardy

    jhardy Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2009
    Messages:
    10
    The half ton front axle will bolt in to the 3/4 ton. You can then install the disk brake upgrade. When you get the front axle be sure to get the COMPLETE axle.

    I used a S10 4x4 rear axle but had to use spacer for the wheels to clear the bed sides. By moving the axle centerline to the rear 1.25 inches you will center the wheel in the fender and be able to use a conversion ujoint to hook the driveshaft to the new rearend.

    This is not a simple bolt in swap so be ready to run new brake lines fabricate brackets and spend a whole bunch of time under the truck.

    Jim
     
  5. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    Messages:
    3,164
    Location:
    Charlotte,NC
    I used to run a Ford 8.8 read from a 90 town car, the spacing works nicely and it has disc brakes. Cut off the factory brackets and weld on a set of new saddle brackets where it mounts to the springs. Factory ford steel wheels are what I run on mine now. Run new brake lines, have the factory half driveshaft changed over to the new u joint for the rear and you can use your stock trans. Order the front hubs drilled for a ford bolt pattern...5x4 1/2" and you are ready to go.
     
  6. coilover

    coilover Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2005
    Messages:
    2,564
    Location:
    Plano US
    You can use a 3100 axle with a disc set up that you can order with a bolt pattern that matches the rear end you choose. Most conversions use the mid-size GM rotor/caliper which have a factory 4.75" bolt pattern. A Camaro/Firebird has a 61" wide rear which is right for an AD and also have the 4.75 bolt pattern. One spare fits all.
     
  7. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    Messages:
    3,164
    Location:
    Charlotte,NC
    I believe that was the measurement for the Town Car axle. If you go with the ford bolt pattern, I believe it is the Granada hubs and rotors that are used.
     
  8. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    High, Mental~

    Your HANDBRAKE works??!!! :eek:
    Cool! No need to worry about the other brakes then! :cool:

    As mentioned, you can get yourself a dropped front axle for a half ton and bolt it in. (Or get dropped springs from Eaton like I did and save some bump steer issues?)
    The problem with thick trucks like ours is, the back end rides _under_ the springs making lowering blocks a fun idea. When I get to lowering the a$$ end, I'll check with mobileortho to see how he did his.
    You want 5 lug? Beyond what was already mentioned, there is still more to choose from.
    My best advice would be to check what will be making it go. A low 3 something will probably be good.
    (ONLY IF YOU ARE KEEPING THE 6) Some of those other rears actually are in the 4's which isn't changing much as far as highway driving goes.

    Just my 1 cent worth of ideas.

    I live in the past~ screw inflation. That's why they came up with Viagra! :D
     
  9. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2007
    Messages:
    3,164
    Location:
    Charlotte,NC
    When you swap in the new rear end, just mount it above the springs.....an instant 3" drop in the rear.
     
  10. MentalClinic

    MentalClinic Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Sweden
    Thanks for all replys guys! Great. Now I know in what direction I will go.
    I have located a complete front beam for a 3100 (with brakedrums, springs etc).
    Havent' picked it up yet, will next week!

    And I will try to find a Camaro/Firebird rearaxle too. Shouldnt be so hard to find.

    But first I will restore the orginal brakes so I can get it registerd in Sweden (it's from North Carolina) and do a safetyinspection. Then start the front beam and rearend swaps.

    Thanks for the help!
     

Share This Page