I would like to find a shop manual for the truck in the title. I have rebuilt the engine and added a RV cam, Edelbrock manifold, Speed Demon Carb, Headers, dual exhaust with a cross over pipe, MSD distributor, and a Digital 6A Multiple Spark Discharge with the matching coil. Now, I need to turn my attention to some drive line issues. I would like to know how to replace the rear brakes and rebuild the entire system as well as add a Lock-Right to the 14 bolt differential but can't seem to find any helpful information. All the books I have seen omit the C30 --- Can any one help? (I have this posted in the general discussion forum as well)
I would like to know how to replace the rear brakes and rebuild the entire system. to do the rear brakes you have to pull the wheel hubs off by removeing the axle shafts then the locking nuts. you will find it is just like any other drum brake just bigger. as well as add a Lock-Right to the 14 bolt differential but can't seem to find any helpful information. you dont have a 14b, duallies came with d70 unless it is a c&c truck with a flat bed or utility box from the factory. lock rights are super simple, pull the axle shafts, open the diff cover, pull the cross pin and all the spiders and side gears, install lockrite, seal and fill.
Friend--- you are the first to respond to me on this forum, thanks. Please let me clarify some things, I , unfortunately, have no experience pulling brakes on a big truck, so , any advice would be helpful (how do I pull the rear hubs) Do you have any pictures of the process? The truck is a long bed camper special it isn't a flat bed or any other configuration. Help if you can please. Thank you....
the steps are all the same as in your single wheel 1t and 3/4t chevy books. go outside and pick up a wrench, use it you will under stand when you actualy start working on it.
I have never had to pull the axles on any of my previous trucks to change the brakes. Should I expect C clips? Or will they be attached by some other means. I'm just trying to understand and be prepared for the job -- I have no problem using a wrench.
To remove the axle shafts, you unbolt them from the end of the hub and slide them out. They should be torqued to about 115 ft*lbs, so leave some of the truck's weight on the tire as you take these out, then remove the tire. It should look something like the first picture, with the end of the spindle and the spindle nut showing. You will need a hub socket to remove the spindle nuts and lock ring. The hub and drum should slide off together. Installation should be the reverse, torque the spindle nut to 50 ft*lbs, then back it off to align with the lock washer. These pictures were taken from BillaVista's 14 Bolt Bible. If your axle looks like the 3rd picture, then it is a D70. I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure the D70 has the same torque specs.
Thanks Nerfherder78, the information is great. Is the axle removal and install for the D70 and the 14b the same? "2tons of a attitude" was correct, the differential is a D70.
i may have "additude" but not only did i tell you how to do it, but i told you the right way, and tried to make it as simple for you to understand. sweet jesus there are some stupid fucking people on this site.
Um , That's why you're here ~ to give advice and help out the folks who don't know.... Remember : there's stupid (pretty much hopeless) and then there's ignorant , those are needing your sage advice . I didn't notice any ' attitude ' until your last post . You should see some of the nimrods where I work .
This was very helpful, thank you. I now realize what diff I have under the truck - it has also provoked more questions about the ten bolt but I'm sure someone has an answer to my simple questions. But when it comes to real help performing the task -- and my innuendo about attitude look at these quotes and judge for yourself who was offering help and who was being a turd. My initial request was for a shop manual to help me with the work I wasn't playing the ignorant ticket and I'm not stupid. The real help offered on these forums is priceless and valuable learning. I appreciate it very much - but - when someone comes forward using butchered vocabulary words mixing Jesus with there own character traits/flaws, it is a little more difficult to pick through the help and the trash. 2 Tons of fun I obviously offended you but based on your reply I can't offer any apology. I am still searching for info on the 10 bolt under the truck, if anyone has info it would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
?! 6 miles the gallon ?! Wow ! and here I thought my old '49 3100 with 235 I-6 was thirsty as it rarely gets better than 12 MPG's . Anyways , I just found a guy in Bloomington , Ca. who sells all manner of books on Flea-Bay ~ ping me off line and I'll see if I can hook you up with him. Although I'm a Journeyman mechanic , I don't often remember the detail stuff you need to tweak a 10 bolt back to health , sorry . I too , like/need books to do the level of work I like to do , yes once you're into the job it oftenbecomes clear but I like to have a good idea of what's up before ripping into a job too . I know the guys here really know this stuff and in due time ,will come forward with more info , it's just slower on this forum than it is on the older truck forums , I don't know why as reading the old posts indicates some really good collected knowledge here . At times I too post up angry messages because I'm bugged @ work or not had my morning coffee or whatever ~ the deal with computer writing is this : you cannot see the all important facial messages that can change a comment from hateful to lighthearted fun, remember that and try not to be upset .
Thanks, I think you have given me some good advice -- although I'm not sure you were talking to me. I haven't been on this forum very long (and have already been cursed at) I don't know how to "ping you"..please help me understand? Thanks again for your advise. By the way, what type of expression do you think think this punk moron had on his face when he said this: I called him friend and he said this to me......Doesn't sound like he needs coffee to me - sounds like he needs a stinkin padded room and rubber suit! He can be easily described in one word, "FREAK'.....
Pings & Responses O.K. , a ' ping ' means an off list reply , there's an " PM " (Private Message) feature here , most forums also have private E-Mail capability , sometimes you have to click on the avatar of the person you want to respond to , I'd a _total_ computer dummy so I can't be of more help than that , sorry . As far as getting rude / inapropriate responses , one must remember that when reading messages , you're not able to fully gauge the other persons intent for lack of facial ques (! SP !) I do this occasionally , write a terse response before I've had my coffee or am PO'd at a Vendor or Customer , I've read many helpful replies from Two Tons O' Fun so I don't really understand his outburst but I'd not worry about it nor hold it against him , these things just happen sometimes . I stopped working on newer rigs many years ago so my help & advice is sorley outdated but it's free for what that's worth . Give me an off list holler and I'll try to hook you up with ' David ' , the guy who sold me my shop manuals , some one (? here ? I forget) was able to find him on Flea-Bay easily after I'd had no luck . the person who connected me to David , was also a bit miffed that I couldn't do it alone but so what ? I don't yell at the Newbies who don't understand why shimming the cluster gears in vintage trannys is so important , just get on with it , knowwhutImean ? .
fjrmitch, I have the exact same truck. Camper Special and all. I am very sad to hear that you also get 6mpg. I was hoping we just needed to switch the carb and make some other changes to get better gas mileage. We were getting 8 for a while but switched the carb and are now back to 6-7. Clearly, we are going to make another switch to at least get it back up to 8mpg. Anyway, if you are looking for parts there is a great catalog from truckandcarshop.com. They also have service manuals. It is a very complete catalog with items that local parts houses are not going to have, like the complete weatherstripping for all the doors and windows.
The Truck Shop Is located on Batavia Av in Orange , Ca. and is really helpful for parts , they have loads of old N.O.S. parts you have to dig through to discover that hard to find item as well as good prices on new and repop parts . I've had mixed ,mostly poor results with the window grommets from there , Chinese junk that's not made right and rots in about one year . For top quality rubber , go to Steele Rubber Co . , they have a web sire with catalog and have many oddball items you'll find nowhere else . best of all , Steele Rubber Co. make EVERYTHING right here in the good old U.S. of A. ! . They have ALL the shop manuals and owner's books , etc. , etc. at good prices , BRAND NEW ! .
Absolutely excellent information, thank you guys very much. This is what the forums are all about and it is priceless.... https://secure.steelerubber.com/homeframes.html http://truckandcarshop.com/
" One Hand......" "....washes the other " so the old saying goes . The guys here know a lot but seem reticent about sharing thier knowledge . What's the point of knowing if you don't want to share and enjoy it ? . I don't get it . Keep asking though as so far I've gained incredible knowledge from the folks here .
Nate, are you referring to Ebay, or is there an actual Flea-Bay (it may be a stupid question but an answer would be most excellent) Thank you sir......
