I have a strong interest in purchasing a 5-window-cab chevy with a side spare tire mount AD with it already restored--or purchase to have restored by someone else, as I am not a mechanic. Does anyone have a reputable restoration shop or person who could advise me as to what to look out for in getting a truck, etc. I have been watching the different classified ads and have a budget of around $10,000 after the first of the year. Is this realistic for a daily driver truck that looks good. By no means a show truck wanted. Just a head turner. __________________ --Sandy Sexton Kansas City, MO Want to be a classic truck owner
Welcome back! There are bargains out there and there are rip-offs. Sounds like you've got specific criteria! Problem with that is that you'll find just what you want but it will be priced out of "wanna-have" range. Ebay and Craig's list are good starts, but be very careful, as they can be very risky! Check forums like this in the "trucks for sale" sections. As far as reputable resto shops, ask follow member "Coilover" about the costs associated with taking any vehicle from rust heap to a gem. He's been there, done that and worn out the T-shirt! The neat part about these trucks is? If you can turn a wrench, you can get one of these trucks purring like a kitten or roaring like a lion. You think Mr. Goodwrench knows his sh*t? He ain't nothing compared to the wealth of info you'll get from the guys on this forum! Ask and they will deliver!
Hi Sandy. If you are looking for reputable restorer, I'd call Herb Force who has a restoration shop near Riverside, Missouri. He's very honest and very knowledgeable. If you're interested, send me a private message and I'll give you Herb's cell no. He's done two AD trucks in the last couple of years, and we have my original 53 5 window truck down there now waiting for restoration. Best, Tony in Parkville, MO
Welcome, Sandy Another KC connection~ I'm loving it! Good luck with your search. You need to check with John's Auto down here in Pittsburg, Kansas. (Straight South on Metcalf) He has a panel that is roadworthy and ready for paint that goes zoom-zoom and might be had for that amount. Phone # 620-231-1240. He's built a bunch of these. I'd buy one from him if I didn't feel the need to do it all myself. As Ken said, the help on here is the best, and the main reason I decided to do it "myself!"
For 10k, you should look for driver, then tinker as needed. You will spend 20-30k and up, depending on how nice you want it. Autofair in Charlotte is in April, that is where I found the 53 that I just finished restoring, to the tune of $35-40k.
Thank you for all of your advice I appreciate your responses. At least it is a starting point. Anyone have any experience of shops in South KC?
check out your local cruise in there is bound to be a local hot spot where people with old cars and trucks gather on a Friday night or such - maybe a root beer stand or something. Start asking around who does what kind of work. I would imagine you will start hearing the same names repeated and that might help you decide. Good luck and welcome!
Time To Buy ! If you have the $ , right now is the time to buy as sales from now until late January , will be dead . Go to Show & Shines , Cruise In's etc. and ask every one who has a truck you like , if it's for sale or do they know of one . You'll be amazed at how fast you get a note pad full of names & 'phone numbers . Take the time to test drive any and all of them before talking turkey and don't be askeert to offer your $10K for a $20K truck as folks always ask more than they expect and often think that what they've put into it , is what they'll get back out and that simply never happens . It's sad but true . When I was selling used cars , I always began buying up inventory in the fall and sat on it until the Spring when I'd have them all tuned up and waxed , repaired as necessary and ready to go , they'd fly out the door and I made mucho $ . Now , the economy is in the dumper so it's your time to score . don't waste time , prices will drop until Christmas . You've gotta strike while the iron is hot ~ don't buy some beater and fritter away your $ having it redone . buy some else's labors and time , whine & complain about every scratch and ding , oil leak etc.
Write in 235 chevy engine on craigs list with different cities and see what comes up on the if you look at some of my net surfing posts you will see what I mean by what comes up. There are a number of them out there now. Good luck
After reading all of your wise advice, I think it is time that I drop back and instead of purchasing a AD truck and have it done, I have my grandparents 1965 C-10 Chevy Truck that my cousin has replaced the engine with a 350 and have it restored. It is in good shape except for a dent on the hood, cracked windshield--and pack rats making their nest on the air filter. I think this would be a better option, as it has always been in the family too. So I guess I will be monitoring the 1965 forum.
Restoring anything is an expensive prospect. How expensive is determined by how nice or how correct it is. Fixing up, however, doesn't have to be expensive. You aren't locked into exact pieces needed for large amounts of $$$$$. If the newer truck only needs a few things, it may be the way to go. Figure out an amount on things you know it needs, then add at least 50% to the budget, probably closer to 100% by the time you are done with it.
What I don't have any experience in is how much for the body work and paint job. Just like the following description. What would it take to get this truck primed and painted? ($1,500....$5,000...$10,000) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230551044207&viewitem=#v4-37
Depends on what you are looking for. Private body man, quicki slick up filler job, good paint.....maybe around $2500. If you just want to have a nice looking driver/ work truck, hit up MAACO. Experienced bodyman, patch panels in corners (where they all need it), complete dissasembly, paint and re assembly.......I paid $6800 for the 53 for body and paint and assembled myself. That ain't a bad deal if the truck is all it is supposed to be. Usually they need floors, cab corners, kick panels, inner to outer fillers, bed front.
Flea-Bay MADNESS Easy does it there ! much worse than the cab corners are the toe boards and cab mounts that ALL AD's tend to have rust issues with ~ this truck has the rolled lip on the front of the bed rusted completely away and that can be a big red flag . DO NOT buy any AD truck until you've crawled underneath and lookd for rust damage ! . I'd think the guys here can now kindly provide photos of typical rust holes you can expect to find . If you have $10,000 to invest in body work , you can buy a $20,000 truck for $10,000 right now as there's plenty of them out there that someone put too much $$ into and now they want a caddy or whatever the media tells them is ' cool ' now....
Nate's right, patience will pay off in getting a truck that is good starting material. Find a place that will let you raise it on a rack and then really check it over. Have an awl or Phillips screwdriver to probe questionable spots. Look closely at all mounting areas and around the emergency brake area. Also where the fenders bolt to the cab and the core support area. Check the frame for rust, damage or repaired damage, and where the bed mounts to the frame. If the bed has been loose for a long time it will wear it's way through the top flange or make it so thin it's cracked. There are some very good trucks to be had right now at give away prices so make lots of contacts and go slow.
The frames like to rust out on top where the bed meets the cab. Crap falls down there and rarely gets cleaned off, then water sits and rots it out.
Thank you for your advice! Especially what to watch out for. I have found this one on Craigslist that has been there since October about 150 mi away. Give me your thoughts? The owner has said that it needs bed wood and rails and it has no tailgate. It is licensed and tagged in the state of Missouri. http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/1994812425.html
That's NICE! Looks like it might be an 8 lugger, however. No big deal, you just will need to swap the front axle for a half ton and replace the back axle with a lower geared newer axle. (Colorado, if you want to stay six lug~ anything else if you want 5 lug.) Looks like a keeper if it's still available.
You're NOT Listening ! I wish I had the pix of the rusty POS Mercedes I bought off Flea-Bay , it looked better than this and the seller assured me it only had a rust hole in the trunk Computer pictures are WORTHLESS ! .