Hey guys I noticed that our host sells an complete manuel power steering conversion kit without any hydr.pump. Does any of you guys have mounted this setup on the truck. I `ll apreceate feedback on user experiences and funcionallity. Martinius.
I put a similar kit on my '57 GMC. Even though I mounted it correctly (sent pictures to the company I bought it from with rulers showing the mounting dimensions) it has a bump steer problem. I feel that this problem is mostly caused by the extremely short drag link used in this kit, which is about 1/2 the length of the stock drag link. If I had it to do again and I was staying with the stock front axle I would use the kit that uses the '80s Toyota 4x4 steering box and mounts in the stock position. Look at post # 8 here for more of my ranting about bump steer. https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=9114 Another thing that might interest you is skipping the power steering, but updating your spindles to use Torrington bearings between the spindle and the axle. This requires a small amount of machine work, but would be much less expensive than the power steering solution. More info on this solution can be found here: http://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/633004236/m/776109227?r=855103897#855103897
The Toyota set up is the way to go. The Toyota power steering box is actually smaller than the factory manual box and mounts with just one very simple bracket. I am also going to do something using one of the new electric power steering columns. No pump or fluid lines and it could be mounted with the electric motor (about the size of a WSW motor) facing up and out of sight. I don't like the bulkiness of having a bunch of extra crap incorporated into the column but when I get one to play with I'll see if I can put it on a diet.
Short draglink cause fore bump steering effect? Bill , thanks fore the excellent explination and the links. I wonder if lowering the truck is one of the mean reasons combined with this conversion that the fenomen "bump steering" exposers ? Will the change in the truck basic geometry influince negativ towards the steering stabillety and wheel contact with the surface ? Then i ask if the same negativ effect comes if you do not lower the truck and keep it standard ? I mean when installing the conversion kit aswell. If this is the case why do vendors sell this conversion kit that is dangerous and should not be installed in the first place ? Maybe this question could be answered by Classic Parts of America tech. people ? Does someone have direct connections with them and could present this issue ? Is the draglink different in CPP conversion kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1947-54-CHEVY-TRUCK-POWER-STEERING-CONVERSION-KIT-/380215866377?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5886a1b409 Martinius-
I bought mine from Brothers, but all the GM 800 series kits are pretty much the same. All have a very short drag link. My truck is not lowered in the front (or back), but ended up working better with the "lowered" pitman arm than the "non-lowered" arm. Only real difference between the two arms is which direction (from the top or bottom) the drag link attaches to the arm. If you are going to go to power steering and keep the solid front axle use the Toyota kit like Evan says. Much easier and cleaner installation. Looks better too.
Bump Steer Most of the time , when you lower a vehicle with a drag link , it winds up no longer level and this is why you get bump steer . It is *very* dangerous . Lowering is , IMO stupid as it re-engineers the entire suspension and most folks just drop it then no longer like the way it drives and so sell it , one step closer to the junkyard . The drag link must be parallel to the ground or you'll have bump steer , changine it's length is do-able but needs done by professionals . I'm sure Russ and Evan know how to do this safely and have older posts commenting on it .
bump steer Bump steer is usually caused by a caster problem. You can change the caster by shimming the front of the axel. This should help with the bump steer problem...Big Tim
hyd pump just bear in mind that you will need a box, a pump and bracket, hoses too, the complete kit may actually be cheaper.
