Hi All, I've owned a 1984 K20 for just shy of 3 years. The previous owner did an engine & transmission swap a year or two before pulling it off the road becuse of issues with the front outer U-joints. I've since dealt with the U-joints, rusted rocker panels and rear brakes. The engine, transmission and the rest of the driveline are in very good condition. I am seriously considering doing a complete teardown and rebuild of the truck after the snow is done for the season. I've been doing my own maintenance and repairs on my cars/trucks/tractors for almost 40 years. My plan is to upgrade the engine to TBI or multiport (depending on what's left of the budget when I get to that point). I also plan on 'sand'blating the frame and re-painting it. Any suggestions on what material to use on the cleaned up frame? Has anyone done a fuel injection conversion to an older truck? Any serious pitfalls to worry about? Is there a kit to move the fuel tank to BETWEEN the frame rails? My truck was from the series that got some really bad press. Especailly that video where they fired a model rocket motor just before the crash. I am a total newbie to this site. So, please give full answers. I've been checking the prices of these trucks along with what I want and what a newer truck comes equipped with. My beastie could bring as much as $2,000. (probably closer to $1,500) because it all pretty much works and the interior is is very good condition. I'm thinking of spending about $4,000 in major repairs and upgrades to make it EXACTLY the truck I want. When I'm done, I expect I should have a $10,000 truck. Or am I building a pipe dream? Thanks, Mike
YOUR Truck It's NO pipe dream Mike ! you can do this ! . Look into " megasquirt " FI , it's a simple system that works out well , easy to use , not terribly $pendy . These are the very last REAL trucks GM ever designed , too bad they cheaped out so much on the build quality but your truck is well worth rebuilding . Expect slow responses here but these guys really know the straight skinny so pay attention when you get a reply . Look through the older posts as much has been done and discussed in detail before . I highly recommend POR paint products for the frame (it doesn't fade as some claim) but BEWARE ! it also doesn't EVER come off so cover the driveway or face the wrath of SWMBO / landlord forevermore . IT WON'T COME OFF ! Period . get it ? .
What he said ^ and check out the 73-87 section on 67-72chevytrucks.com, there are a bunch of really nice restorations on there. Don't worry about the gas tank being on the outside of the frame, Ive never ever heard of one actually blowing up in a crash. That was the only way they could it to blow up was by shooting a rocket at it, seriously FLAMES + GAS what do you think its gonna do?
Rebuild Mike, This is a good hobby to get you out of your chair. If you enjoy working on the truck, to me that is not a waste of time & money. Take pictures and post them here to keep a record of your progress. Remember "Restore them don't crush them"
Hi Guys, Thanks for the advice/input. I checked on the Megasquirt product. This project calls for (and I budgeted) a whole lot more plug-and-play. Holly makes a complete TBI system for just over a grand. One of my objectives is to minimize downtime. I am planning on pulling the cab and box off to do a once-and-for-all job (5-7 years) on the frame. If I find an extra $700-$900, I'll send out the heads and do the rings and bearings. As of now, the engine is staying in the frame and staying sealed (other than valve cover gaskets). Along with the transmission, transfer case, driveshafts and axles. OK, belts and hoses are getting replaced too. My target start date is April 16, 2011. Hopefully, I'll have it back together before July. That means stockpiling the parts between now and April..... Pics and descriptions will be posted!
Phase 1/2 done. I went over the front end as part of a little task this past weekend. The truck needed new wheel bearings and brakes. I'm down to 1 ball joint needing replacement. (The bad bearings masked the bad ball joint.) After that, the whole front end (steering, suspension and brakes) will be solid.
Suspension Work Be smart (& SAFE !) as ball joints always wear in sets , replace all four , you won't believe how much better it'll ride & handle . Rock Auto has Moog's better quality ones super cheaply . Always remember to have the wheels off the ground when greasing so the grease goes where it needs to go , it can't until the suspension is unloaded .
