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Discussion in '1960-1966' started by 1964 ugly truck, Dec 30, 2010.

  1. 1964 ugly truck

    1964 ugly truck Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2010
    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Huntington Beach
    Where is the cab grounded to the frame?
    I was told that might be the root of my electrical problems.... hmmmm????
     
  2. markeb01

    markeb01 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Messages:
    168
    Location:
    Spokane, WA
    I’m not familiar with the pure stock restoration method of grounding on these trucks, but most vehicles from this period had a braided ground strap from the engine to the firewall. Additionally, much of the wiring in these trucks was under size when new, and many of the lights depended on sheet metal parts for a return path to the battery. For example on the 1960 trucks the factory had 14 gauge wire for high beams, 18 gauge for low beams, and 20 gauge for grounds! All of these wires should be 14 gauge. These trucks are also notorious for having random ground problems, particularly in the tail/parking/turn lights. I got so tired of chasing electrical gremlins in my last car I went overkill on my truck.

    I went with two basic rules.

    1. Everything should have a wired ground back to the battery.
    2. Each ground wire should be the same size as the power wire.

    This is what I did with mine:

    1. The battery is grounded to the engine block with a 1 gauge cable.
    2. A 4 gauge battery cable connects the engine block to the frame.
    3. From the bolt connecting the battery cable to the frame, another 10 gauge wire runs to a common grounding bolt on the radiator support under the passenger side air deflector. All forward lighting and the electric fan ground to this bolt.
    4. A similar wire runs to the rear, and all rear lighting grounds to this wire where it's bolted to the frame rail.
    5. Again from the engine block where the battery cable connects, another 10 gauge wire runs into the cab and is bolted to the pedal support. All dash lighting and gauge grounds connect to this bolt.

    You don’t have to take it this far, but more is better than less. You can’t have too many grounds. It’s worth the couple of extra dollars in wire and the time it takes to string it, in exchange for never having to deal with random electrical problems again.
     
  3. johan

    johan Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Messages:
    92
    Location:
    Varney Ontario
    I rewired me truck and used a EZ wiring kit. the kit is easy to use but doesnt have any ground wiring . I did what Markeb01 did ,Am still working on me truck to get it on the road this spring ,but I test the wiring and it works great.
     
  4. dcsi5919

    dcsi5919 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2005
    Messages:
    231
    Location:
    Kansas City United States
    Good stuff, Markeb01 and thanks for sharing.
     
  5. kieth

    kieth Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Gang Grounding Blocks

    I do motorcycle electrical systems and one company makes a gang ground strip, I will look for it.................AHHHH found it it is from a company called the electrical connection

    http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/02207.htm

    they sell retail for 29.95 I have 6-8 of them in stock would take $25.00 each for them........

    A comment about grounding the trucks electrical system, do it, the HD 1# welding wire from body to frame is a great idea, but be sure and ground from the engine to the frame with just as heavy a wire........If you have some heavy DC loads on the battery, a faulty ground can cause electrolysis in the engine, transmission, and rear end.....causing pitting of all bearings and lead to early failure of components. Kieth 918-446-2245
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2011

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