I'm replacing all the freeze plugs while I have the engine out & the flywheel off. I am wondering what is the recommended way of installing them is. I'm thinking a thin film of Permatex #2 around the edge before installation,or, should they maybe go in dry? Just want to do it right, I don't want to have to deal with the rear one any time soon. Terry
What Russ Said ! And of course , use BRASS ones only ! . I agree , Permatex is a good idea . if you're a poor Farm Boy , use us a big socket that snugly fits inside the cup plug , beat on it instead of the plug , it'll slip right in and not bend nor distort . Or , go to Harbor Freight and buy the uber cool " Freeze Plug Installation Tool " ~ I've always wanted one... , they prolly make the job easy .
but not TOO snugly. I'd leave a little slop. When you bang it in you'll find that the cup size will reduce slightly and pinch the socket if it was snug to start with. You'll have to call Nate to learn new words to use while trying to remove the socket.
Plugs For me the only way is to find a donor block, cut out a section of block and get it turned down until its 1 thou oversized for the freeze plug hole, then place your block in a furnace until its cherry red and pull it out then carefully whack in your cast iron plug you've made, then using dissimilar welding rods run a bead of weld round the plug, allow to cool naturally by placing it outside, in a desert preferably, then as it cools gradually bring it into your workshop, grind down the weld so that it's flush, then make a bar out of some 1/4" stock about 1" wide just long enough to go 1/2" either side of plug, drill a couple of 1/8" holes in ends of bar and then place over plug and mark holes onto block, they should be 1/4" away from welds ideally, drill and tap the block where you marked it with your favourite thread and drill the bar to fit snug for your bolts, drill through the head of the bolts with a small drill bit big enough for some fine wire, get some locking washers with the little tabs on the side and fit them over the bolts, bolt the bar over the welded plug using thread lock then bend up the tabs to lock the bolts, thread some wire through the drilled heads of the bolts, from one to the other then twist wire to tighten, if you want complete peace of mind you can re heat the block and run some braize around the whole bar/plug area, but that's a little bit over the top for me. I've done this to all my motors and never had a problem with leaking plugs, and it's a quick fix to boot.
And, Neal, has agreed to help with the next cattle drive just down the road from my shop. The counters chair is set up close to the cattle pen gate so as the cow herders drive them past he can count their legs and divide by four; only accurate way to get a tally.
I repaired a flathead F**d block in a similar fashion back in 1968. As far as I know it is still running to this day.
Sorry I'm sorry Evan, as much as I'd like to help with the cattle drive my speciality lies in male bovine excreta, I'm honoured by your offer though
By the Way, You probably don't need to change the one in the back of the engine that covers the Camshaft. Also, I flushed out a lot of crud from my engine with a pressure washer while the plugs were all removed.
