I have a 6 volt pedal starter running off of a 12 volt battery. I dont have any of the trucks wiring hooked up at this point. It used to have a solenoid starter but I replaced it with the pedal starter because the solenoid one was broken. Also, when I crank it, smoke will come from the valve cover vents. I dont know if its from the oil I had put in the cylinders or if its something else.
Sounds familiar~ I tried bringing my 228 back to life via the 12 volt battery and 6 volt starter. I now have a 12 volt starter if that tells you what short, but repeated attempts to just get the thing started does to a 6 volt starter. I can now crank the snot out of it without it showing any signs of fading. Hang in there! At least you're not at the mercy of a wiring nightmare with multiple sensors and CRAP! Drift back to the good old days of shade tree mechanic(ing)!
Haha, I love working on older engines. They are so much more simple. I tried using a bigger battery today to get a faster cranking speed and still nothing It still seems like its such a weak spark at the plugs, very small and orange-ish colored. The arc between the points is a bright white-blue. I have replaced everything that has to do with ignition/spark. Unless I just have my distributor off wildly, I should be getting better spark I think. Is there anything else related to spark besides whats in the distributor and coil, wires and plugs?
Stop ! Go get a Multi - Meter , it is time to begin serious testing . (bet you alls never expected me to suggest a meter didja ? )
Testing First battery charge between the posts . Then move on ~ full voltage to the hot lead on the starter , same with the frame ~ didja get 1 gauge battery cables yet ? you need them regardless of 6 or 12 volts . then , operate the starter and see how much voltage is across the battery's terminals as it's groaning & slowly cranking over . This last because it should spin fast with the plugs out... If you skip steps , you'll never get there . # 1 : cranks nice & fast # 2 : valve gaps # 3 : spark (I know this is bad now but you need to fix the other stuff first) once you're here , set the timing . # 4 : fuel ~ you can cheat and simply add a litrtle bit of fuel to make it run 30 ~ 60 seconds at a time , BEWARE THE FIRE DANGER !! Etc.....
sorry to interrupt... Hey Cody - just wanted you to know i responded to your request regarding the need for a radiator support. Check out the pics i posted on your thread in the parts wanted section. I also sent you a 'private message' but since you are fairly new to this site, you may not have figured that out yet. I see you got your hands full, but just letting you know i am here when you are ready. Good luck - sounds like you are making headway!
I tried getting the cables at my local auto parts store and they said the lowest they could get was 4 gauge. So I guess I'm gonna have to order the cables offline somewhere. Oh yeah, sorry Ive been busy and in and out of town, slipped my mind I guess. I need the rad support but I was hoping I could get it a little bit cheaper. Im sure shipping cost is gonna eat me too.
Well... I found a running 235 for sale in my area and I'm thinking about picking that one up. Its a 55 bel air engine. If the engine in my truck was original, i'd stick with it, but its already been swapped. He wants 200 for it but I'm hoping I can get hime down to 150. It hasnt run in a year but Its better than 10+ years lol. And I figure with all of the things that need to be replaced on my engine now, Ill be up to 200 with still a high mileage engine (from what I could tell by cylinder wall wear) whereas; I could by this one and already have it running I dont think its a hydraulic lifter motor though like the one I have now. Which type of lifter is preferred? Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it very much.
Used Engines Are always a crap shoot . Be SURE to get the starter included ! . Complete used 235 engines top out at $150 fan to clutch and those fools who won't see them for this or less , still have them lying behind the garage 5 years later..... Offer him the $150 and walk away , he'll call you in a week or two . Me , I'd take the time to get the old one running but I'm stubborn thataway . If you get the engine out of the truck , take the time to clean & wire brush it Hospital Clean then rinse it off with Ether (starting fluid) and re - spray it gray like a truck engine should be , paint the starter , generator , dizzy etc. gloss black and once it's in and running , you'll be amazed how good it looks .
He said he'd take 150 for it, this engine will be more of a temporary one. When I get another truck( one thats all there ) Im planning on using the original engine from it, but I'll have this used engine I can throw in there while Im rebuilding the original slowly Then I can sell the used one. I hate the feeling of "giving up" on my current engine, but i will have far more than 150 in it to be able to get it anywhere near as good of condition as the one im gonna be buying. The one ive been working with has sat uncovered for 10 years with the carb off. Im suprised I even got it un-seized to begin with lol
When I go to pick up this engine, how should I attach the engine hoist to the motor? It has a transmission hooked to it if that makes any difference. Thanks, Cody
Hoisting It all depends on how it is ~ if it's complete , I'd prolly use one of those web sling things to avoid denting anything . Watch the balance ! once it begins to tip , GET OUT OF THE WAY before it beaks your bones . no kidding here . I always look at a loose engine (out of vehicle) as a chance to practice my Used Car Lot skills , get it looking spiffy so when someone later on looks at it running and you say ' oh yeah , I'm going to sell that ' you might get $200 instead of the usual $75 ~$150.... plus , it's just a good work habit to develop . I don't see why you think it'll take any $ to get the old one running.... When you remove the non running engine ,be sure to leave the cylinders filled with Diesel Fuel .
