So i wont get into how it happened but I have had a setback and need advice which path to pursue. Does it look like something that could be handled with a stud welder and slide hammer or should i seek the service of a pro? with the exception of the crease everything else seemed to stay straight. I am not looking for perfect.
Are you sure you didn't spring the door opening? Very lucky if you didn't. I've seen guys pop out an area like this using nothing more than some screws, a block of wood and a crowbar. Good luck!
Your hinge (front) pillar has definitely been moved forward and rolled outward. Three pull plates attached where the weather strip bumps up against, with one near the top, one centered, and one lower will pull everything back pretty close. We have tools designed for that type of thing but before I had them I'd braze 1/4" plate with hook holes in them to fasten the puller to. Used brass instead of weld because it will migrate the full length of the plate instead of just in spots like weld beads. That pillar is the strongest part of the entire cab so the anchor for the other end of the puller to hook to is going to have to be creative. Heavy channel that can be fastened to the pillar above and below the damaged area and then extended back to a vertical channel fastened to the rear door post will keep all the force on the hinge pillar only and not transferred to other parts of the cab. Three come-alongs from the puller tabs to the rear anchor channel can be worked so everything moves evenly. Pull tight and hammer around the ridge to help relieve stress, pull-hammer,pull-hammer,------. I'd bet your hinges are junk even if you can't see it and compare the hinge pockets to those on the other side to see if they are out of position. A saving grace is the coach work on AD's is so bad from the factory that any door that fits good enough to exclude full grown cats is within specs.
hey coilover you said to use brass instead of weld because it will migrate the full length of the plate. what do you mean by that? i use silicon bronze (SIB) on thinner gauge (24 and up) alot. is this the filler you are talking about? also, would'nt something like er-70s2 be stronger being that it has a high tensile strength? aside from all that i completely agree with you on the fix, it definitly looks rolled. but hey look on the bright side, judgeing by the floors there is bound to be rust up in the cowls so now is a good time to fix all that. -Robert
Yes, silicon bronze would do just as good or maybe better. There is not much surface area to bond to but I'm going to try Panel Bond the next time something like this comes up. It is what they have used since the 80's to fasten the door hinges to the pillars on Chevy trucks and have had no problems that I'm aware of. We have been using it to bond floor crossmembers to the floor pans since the whole length is fastened, not just at spotwelded points.
Hang Tough ! This is actually a very common event , my '49 had this and it was fixed by the PO . Follow Evan's instructions and it'll be fine .
i was thinking of drilling holes in a plate then bolting them to where the hinge bolts, then following pull-hammer method.Brazing , well bodywork for that matter, is not a strength and i would have to hand it off to someone. The hinges are done, not easily noticed but comparing them to pictures you can see it, but i was going to replace them after it happen anyway. Nate,I have relaxed some since it happened, i had to walk away and clear my head. then i looked at it again and saw it wasnt horrible, not good either, but not project ending.
hey coilover i misunderstood your first reply. i didnt realize you ment to attach the pull points. i thought you wanted to reattach the door pillar with bronze. -Robert
Looks like my truck when I got it....explains the one shiny cowl side and shiny door. A hurricane slid my truck over about 6 feet in m my uncle's driveway and snatched open the door before I got it.
