66 Brake Failure

Discussion in '1960-1966' started by Lon66C10, Jul 5, 2003.

  1. Lon66C10

    Lon66C10 Member

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    I have a 1966 Chevrolet C-10 daily driver. Last week my brakes failed on me driving to work. I added some fluid and it worked for a bit then they went out again. Obviously I'm losing fluid/pressure somewhere in the system I'm just not positive where.

    I checked the lines- they all look fine. A few of the rubber hoses could use replacing but they do NOT seem to be the source of my trouble.

    Where I THINK the problem lies (and I'm here to confirm that ;) ) is where I add the brake fluid. The rubber inside the lid feels all spongy and deformed. When I clamp the lid back down it doesn't feel like it's completely locked down. I think I'm either losing fluid through here or not maintaining pressure.

    If anyone has had a similar problem or can decipher my rambling to figure out my problem I'd sure appreciate it!

    Lon
     
  2. dvalentine

    dvalentine Charter Member

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    Does the brake pedal go to the floor ? A yes answer to this and everything else looking good suggests that its' the Master Cylinder itself.

    Now might be a good time to consider swapping out the old single jar for a modern two cylinder system from the 72 and up years. More work ? Yes. Safer ? Absolutly !

    Dennis
     
  3. Lon66C10

    Lon66C10 Member

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    Dennis,
    Thanks. Yes, the pedal sinks all the way in. You suggesting upgrading, eh. Sounds like a good idea to me. When you say more work... how much do you mean? Will a /72 dual cylinder not just bolt right in or do I have to do some modification?

    Lon
     
  4. dvalentine

    dvalentine Charter Member

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    Hi Lon,

    By more work I mean you will need to run new front brake lines. Get your hands on a "GOOD" flaring tool and practice a few times before committing to doing the brake lines. The new line runs from the front output on the M/S, straight down to the frame, and then crosses over to the right frame rail by running it across the back of the front suspension crossmember the same way the single system line now runs. The existing line installs into the back output of the M/S. On the right frame rail you will find the T-fitting that splits the current line to the front. Replace the T-fitting with an L-fitting. The new line runs straight down from the M/S and has a T-fitting there. One side runs to the left front, the other, across the cross member to the right front wheel.
    The master cylinder from the 72 should go right in as long as you have the truck bracket. You may need to widen a hole or two in the firewall, but it will go in with little trouble.
    Make a run to the local Pick-N-Pull and grab the bracket, and the rod that goes from the pedal to the M/S, then pick up a new M/S...

    Dennis
     
  5. Lon66C10

    Lon66C10 Member

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    Dennis -

    Thanks! Sounds like what I'm going to do next week!

    Lon
     
  6. dvalentine

    dvalentine Charter Member

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    Good Luck Lon !!

    ( I just wanted to get over the hump to my 375 post... What a blabber mouth ! )

    DV
     

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