can someone help? I am sure someone out there has run a wire loom from the door to the cowl pillar. which one and location in the door you ran it? I just tried one from summitt md way down the door, lets just say that did not work. As always thanks
My first question would be is what are you trying to wire up? Secondly, wasn't the wiring to the dome light run over top of the headliner?
sorry bout that. I need to run the power window and shaved door handle wires back to the fuse panel and tie them together. the dome light does (or will agian) run over the top. the billet loom i attempted to install would not slide though as designed due to the way the door closes.
You might try heading to the junkyard to look for a rubber accordion style wireway from a late model vehicle. Hope this helps!
The way our doors swing creates a shearing efect in the door jambs. I reccommend running the wires through a piece of metal tube bent to match the hinge piece comming from the door. Tack the tube to the bottom of the hinge, push the wires through, leave a small loop of wire inside the kick panel for opening and closing slack. This works very well, I did it on the 50 I built. Use the largest brake tubing that will fit when the door closes. You can also zip tie the wires to the hinge arm, but the pipe looks much cleaner.
Is this kind of what you had in mind, Chebby? I still might do a hard conduit like you suggested, although this doesn't appear to be vulnerable to pinching...it moves in and out pretty freely...
That is pretty much what to do. Just zip tie it to keep it stabilized. If you look at the action of our doors, instead of a swing out (like a house hinge) our doors have more of a sliding movement, which makes jamb wiring difficlt.
We use the set up where a stainless steel spring slides through thick graphite grommets. The AD's put them at a radical angle but have never had one give a minutes trouble. In the picture the upper is for wires and the lower is for the emergency release cable in case the electrical stuff malfunctions. We now put the bear claw latch in the door pillar so that along with door to post spring loaded contacts for the windows and/or locks no wires into the door are necessary. Having the latch and solenoid in the pillar is good since it doesn't get slammed with every door closing but a draw back with the contacts to operate the windows or locks is the door must be closed for them to work.
