My next fix is a leak inside the cab. When truck first starts, after a few minutes, I get a steamy mist comming up towards windshield. After shut down and sitting for a bit I get a small puddle of coolant on cab floor on passenger side. Look for recommendations on how to approach this fix. I assume I have to drop the heater box?
Yea, it sounds to me like a typical heater core gone south. You may be able to find the leak and solder it, or have a radiator shop do it, but our hosts show a core for $170, or the whole assembly for $175. Seems like a lot for a core, but maybe I'm getting outdated... Either way, it's going to have to come out...
Ahhh, yes the heater core split. What # radiator cap are you running? The stock was very low pressure, when I put in a modern 16# cap, the core split completely one morning, right in the floor. Just get a new core and all should be well.
Malmoth OR. 4 th. of July. The kids parade whas great to watch, a lot of classic vehicles where passing the camera mans eye. I will ask my famely to download them to you tomorrow and show these beautifull cars soon ! God loves America and i love it to. Martinius.
heater core replacement Thanks and that is what I assumed, replace core. Any tips or tricks in replacing it?
Unbolt it, pull it out, put new core in, bolt it back. It should be a pretty straight forward swap. There is but one wire and a ground, 2 hose clamps and 3 or 4 bolts through the firewall.
olchebby, my heater core went south also after i put a new alum. radiator w/16# cap. Suppose i patch the core and then use a #7 cap on the new radiator, will that keep the old patched up core from blowing again? Thanx, Mike
The old timer that repairs my old heater cores recommends no more than a 4 lb. radiator cap. The leak could be from a hose, the control valve or the core The host has the best price on rebuilding the control valves. http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Heater-Control-Valve-Rebuilt/productinfo/68-105/ Best price I have seen on new cores is from J.C. {$135}.
Thanx Deadzone, I wish it was that simple! All new hoses and valve(re-tighthened clamps) Fogged up windshield and antifreeze smell in cab.How about a 0# cap. Would that give me heat and not bust my core once i get it repaired?
Crushed Inlet or Outlet tube On my 1951 I had leaking inside the cab . I found the previous owner had OVER tightened the hose clamps and crushed the In/Outlet tube. I made them round again, inserted a 1/2 inch stainless insert inside each, reclamped each hose and NO problem for over 5 years. Its worth a look.
