My question is about the tubular v8 cross member mounting. The mount is too wide for my frame rails so i obviously need to cut to fit but do i need to weld it inside the end caps? They are about 5 inches deep so will contain the crossmember once cut to length. Not welding would allow it to pivot. Is that a problem? The tranny will be mounted to it's crossmember so once that is bolted there will be no more pivot. Anybody have thoughts on this? TIA
I would cut to size, test fit, then weld where the tube fits into the ends, then drill and spot weld 2-4 spots at the ends of the mounts.
?? How much ' too wide ' ? . Back when I were a laddie I did a clutch job and upon re assembly the cross member didn't fit anymore . I had to use a bottle jack and some 4X6" s to get it in there , when all was said & done it fit just fine but surely looked over an 1" too wide when it was apart . Measure thrice , cut once .
V8 Crossmember I used a crossmember from POL (it was 3 parts..crossmember and 2 'end-caps'). The end-caps were about 2 inces or so long so the crossmember can go 'inside'. The crossmember was too long (by about 6 or more inches). I figured out that I had to cut both ends so the motor mounts would be centered as much as possible. At first, I thought about making the passenger side of the crossmember shorter so the motor would mount more to that side and hopefully free up more room on the driver's side where the steering gear was mounted. However, looking at the tranny crossmember I had, I dismissed that idea because that tranny mount I had MUST mount in the center of the frame. I thought it better to keep it all centered all the way to the rearend. I did not weld the crossmember (motor) to the end-caps and with my mount, don't think it's necessary. With the motor and tranny mounted, there is no movement, up/down. I think tho, when its roadworthy, I will weld the endcaps on the motor crossmember and will not weld the tranny end-caps. Roger
Roger, That sounds like a good plan. The end caps I have are about 5 inches long and it seems like it wouldn't need to be welded at least to get everything lined up and tested. Everyone, I appreciate all of the feedback. This is a great site. I am hopefully going to be able to finish up the drivetrain stuff in the next month. I would love to hear the old guy running and see it moving before the snow starts to fly. Finding the time is the tough part. I did a couple sketches of paint jobs if anyone is interested in seeing and giving input. Jason
Cut your cross member a little short so you can move it side to side this way you can center your motor. You are going to have to cut the end tubes also because once you have cut the center piece to size the tube ends are not going to slide on far enough, they will hit on the bends of the center piece. The center tube needs to be cut down 2" on each side and the sleeves need to be cut down around 1 3/4" Here's a link to CPPs instructions. http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/EngineTransX.pdf
Thanks for the link!! I did not get that with my purchase. That is a great help. Hopefully this week or next and drive train will be in place. Body work is progressing. I will have some pictures soon. Thanks for the guidance as always!!
It would be nice if they would give instructions with their product or at least tell you about the online ones. Good luck with your truck.
