This is the question this week? In putting an s-10 frame under my 53 chevy truck. I am now trying to figure how to deal with the gas getting from the tank to the carburetor. You can see in the picture the top of the gas tank, This is a 91 s-10, my understanding is that this is a tank for fuel injection I will be running a chevy 383 with a carburetor. The pump in the tank is high pressure to feed an injection system, I was planning to lower the pressure with a regulator. But told that I can't just lower it that much with a regulator. Is this true and if so, how do I still use this tank and get it to work with a low pressure carburetor????? Steve
Fuel injection is a recirculating system, in other words it draws from the tank then returns to the tank as well. You have a pickup line, return line and a couple of lines that probably go to some sort of smog canister. To use that tank you would probably have to remove the fuel pump from the tank, plug off 3 of the lines and possibly extend the pickup line so that it reaches to the bottom of the tank or within 1/4 ". Then use an external pump like the stock mechanical pump on the engine or electric pump. There may be the possibility that another sender from a tank that was from a carbureted vehicle might work too. Or you could take your chances with a mechanical or external electric pump and leave the stock pump in the tank disconnected from power and just draw fuel through it.....Good luck....Big Tim
Thanks Big Tim, I was thinking of pulling the tank pump out and just run a hose into the tank and pump it out with with an electric pump mounted on the frame rails, like you suggested. I was told for this to work I would have to have the fuel line come out of the bottom of the tank, because it needs to fall with gravity to the pump because the electric pump would only push the fuel to the engine, . the pump does not have suction power to pull gas up through the top of the tank. Did I say this correctly, it seems to an issue with sucking /pushing. THOUGHTS. Steve
Total BS, Those pumps will draw fuel as well as push. I have a custom built Aluminum tank I fabricated 15 years ago in my 54 and it draws fuel from the top with an electric pump with no problem. I wouldn't use a rubber hose though, use a piece of steel brake line and a compression fitting to extend one of the existing lines to the bottom of the tank.....Big Tim
Thanks, Its always hard to know who is talking B.S, and who has the correct answer. But on this site the answers always seem to be correct, or someone else will correct them. Steve
Even the mechanical pump will pull from the tank. The Unibody we just finished pulls from the tp with a mech. pump and works perfectly.
I can't use the mechanical pump because the 350 block is set back about three inches in relation to the stock motor mounts on the s-10 frame. That is why I am going the route of an electric fuel pump. Any recmendations on which pump to use.
Use a good name brand inline fuel pump.....Mr. Gasket should not be considered a name brand.....or a factory equipment pump. Cheap ones crap out on you at the worst possible time.......like in a rain storm.....10 miles from town.....in a T bucket....on the way to the beach.
I wish I had the smarts that you guys have. I got on line and checked out the the Purolator PRO 06SV is only $40, which I like. So many people keep telling I need a lot of fuel to supply a a 383 with a 750 holley. I have forgotten the formula on how much fuel is needed per cc. I do know that my block was bored to 40 over. I guess this makes it a 385??. So 32 gal/hr will be enough?? My engine building buddy thinks should get a carter street pump. I may never get this project finished, but with out the help of this site, I would still have a rusting P.O.S. mostly in boxes. Thanks again for all the help.
Your truck will never starve with 32 Gal. an Hr. You need to find out what's the maximum fuel pressure a 750 Holly requires though ( probably around 5 PSI ) and regulate the fuel pressure so that it don't go over that and you should be fine....Big Tim
Thanks guy, Now I just have to figure out how to get the top of the tank off. Looks like I will be running a Purolator PRO 06SV and some regulator. Steve
If you disconnect all the lines and wires to the sender you can then take a punch or chisel and tap on one of the raised tabs counter clock wise and the sender and float assembly will twist out of there. There might be a o ring to deal with. To reassemble just reverse the process....Big Tim
Electric Fuel Pumps What the fellas here said *BUT* , 4 ~ 7 PSI is WAAYYYYY too much pressure ! the pressure regulator you're thinkng of using , will reduce the critical fuel flow volume ~ take the time to order in the correct 2 ~ 4 PSI E Pump and mount it near the tank , it'll suck up the fuel just fine , pressure regulators are a silly patch repair that's never necessary . ~ what the well meaning folks meant to tell you was : E- Pumps should be mounted near the tank , not up near the engine as they are designed to push the fuel , this doesn't mean the cannot suck , it just means they'll work better & last longer if they're properly installed so they push the fuel forward . Over 4 PSI and you're going to have rich running troubles in any streetable engine . Many old Japanese cars and nearly all old British cars have very good quality high volume low pressure electric fuel pumps , new @ FLAPS or absurdly cheap in junkyards , the late 1970's MG E-Pumps have no points to fail , they're transistorized and bulletproof as well as using only 4 amperes maximum . Always mounted underneath the car above the rear axle , just in front of the fuel tank . Use rubber mounts to avoid telegraphing fuel pump noise into the car . The cheapo cbe typ ones that everyone hates becaust the fail , only fail when they're improperly installed : far from the tank so they run hot as the fuel passing through any E-Pump is what keeps it cool & lubricates it . This means NO FILTER between the tank and the pump ! . No need to $pend lots of $ for fancy chrome Hot Rod crap if you just want it to run reliably .
Thanks vw nate, I will attempt to find the correct pressure for the holly 750 carb, and get a fuel pump for it. steve
Also, don't forget to wire that pump through a relay. Running an elect. pump with out a relay can shorten the life of the pump too....Big Tim
E-Pumps , Safety Etc. I was looking at the oil pressure switches on 1970's ~ 1980's vintage L6 engines and many have two or three connections for just this purpose : You wire the relay via the oil pressure switch so if you have a collision , the E-Pump doesn't keep pumping fuel out until it catches fire and you burn to death... . ' But ' I hear you ask ' how do I get fuel up to the carby before the engine starts & builds oil pressure ?' . Good question ! you wire the starter signal to the relay and this operates the E -Pump whenever the starter is operating . Simple , safe and effective , just the way the OEM's do it . Relays are cheap , I use those cute little cube relays as they're continuous duty and the better , OEM ones are rated to 30 ~ 50 ampers so the 4 ampere E - Pump is never going to wear it out and many of them are about 1" square & have nifty mounting tabs built right in so you can hang it anywhere your heart desires .
