I have a 1965 C10 (longbed fleetside) and am in the process of getting it legle to drive. at this point i am having a problem with my signel flashers. My right side (back and front) work fine but the left turn ones will not. I can see a dim light on my dash indicator but nothing outside front or back. I have replaced all bulbs and the flasher on the fuse box but still nothing. Could this be the flasher box on the radiator support above the volt regulator or just a short maybe? Any tips would help.
Hi Kevin, First off welcome to the forum. Start by setting the parking lights on with the headlight switch. Are the left side lights on or off? On = signal switching problem, Off = circuit problem. Clean the sockets for the bulbs out really well with steel wool, emery cloth or some other abrasive. Make sure you are getting good contact, and power to the socket with a probe. Then trace back the wiring looking for trouble spots like a badly crimped wire. Clean the contacts as you go. Trace right up to the column harness and make sure the connections are tight. If you get inside the cab it may be related to the turn signal switch. Best of luck, Dennis
I will try that. I for got to also say that i have replaced the switch and wire asembly inside the stearing wheel so i know that is working both ways.
I just tried the lights and this is what happend..... turned on the light switch to just the first point and NO lights came on at all. not the flashers, the rear lights or the main lights. (the key was turned to the ON position). At this point I tried the switch and can still get the left to flash in the rear and front but nothing on the right (the signel in the cab still comes on very bright for a sec then goes dim). I will go and clean all the contacts in the bulbs like you suggested too. I beleave both brake lights work though but i will check to make sure. I have also noticed that in the opening on the front of the hood next to the lights are small orange lights that are connected to the same harness. I think some one just added these later because they dont show up on the wirering diagram. I was thinking about removing them and just getting a whole new harnes for this part of the electical. work continuing, any other suggestion would be great.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Aug-21-03 AT 12:36 PM (CST)]"(the signel in the cab still comes on very bright for a sec then goes dim)." That sure sounds like a short to me. Did you replace the "column" wiring? The wires that run down the inside of the column sleeve and end with a connector harness? If yes you may have crimped that harness when you installed it, or ran a screw or something through a wire. Check for continuity all along the circuit. Its a tedious process but it will produce results. Dennis
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Aug-21-03 AT 06:20 PM (CST)]yes i did replace the column wiring, i will check to make sure nothing got crimped or stabbed (lol). I spent today taking apart my rear light assembles and cleaning them, i ordered the rear tail light assemble and the under hood assemble from here today. With those freaky extra lights on the hood and all the patched and cut wires in there i just feel better with replacement ( i can still use them when i finish the truck anyways) and that will be one less thing that would be messed up. Once I have something to check the continuity i will try that too. Thank you for all the help dvalentine!!!! I will keep updating as i get stuff done untill i get them all to work. Keep the sugestions comming!!!!!! PS on a totaly different supject, on chevy dutys parts list how do i know if i need the 1963-66) Engine Harness-6 Cyl w/ Lights or the (1963-66) Engine Harness-6 Cyl w/ Gauges or do i need both?
"PS on a totaly different supject, on chevy dutys parts list how do i know if i need the 1963-66) Engine Harness-6 Cyl w/ Lights or the (1963-66) Engine Harness-6 Cyl w/ Gauges or do i need both?" If your instrement cluster has gauges? You need the the gauge harness. If you have what we lovingly call "Idiot Lights" on the cluster, you need the harness for lights. You don't need both. If you have the idiot lights, it may be a good time to consider swapping to a gauge cluster. Keep an eye out on e-bay for them if you are interested. BTW, I don't work at Chevy Duty, I'm just a regular guy like you. Dennis
On my old '63, I had a similar problem. It turned out to be a bad ground in the circuit. My cab and bed were not grounding to the frame due to corrosion. Some hard cleaning and auxilary ground wires cured the problem. Hope this helps.
Just wanted to update this..... I got the wiring harness for both the under hood to the flashers and the rear one from there back end to the rear brake lights/flashers. I installed the under hood one today and now both FRONT flashers work fine (though the pass side one is a little dim but I think this is just and old light maybe). The rear pass side still works fine but driver is still out (so I got 3 of the 4 flashers working now). So two questions now ; one... do you all think the new rear will fix the last light (drive rear)? and two... I noticed that even with the front flashers working the lights don’t come on when the head lights come one, shouldn’t they be on solid with the rest of the night lights? If so what could be causing this. Hope I explained my self on this but if I didn’t let me know what I can elaborate on.
Glad you are making progress on this. "one... do you all think the new rear will fix the last light (drive rear)? " Have you made sure that you are getting good ground to that socket? Is the socket and contacts clean and shiny ? Is it the correct bulb in there ?? Yes ? Then, The new harness better fix it ! "and two... I noticed that even with the front flashers working the lights don’t come on when the head lights come one, shouldn’t they be on solid with the rest of the night lights? If so what could be causing this. " What causes that is ,,,,, the factory ! The parking lights don't come on with the headlights on... But Wait ! It can be fixed and it's an easy one. The hardest part will be removing the headlight switch to get to the wires better. ( I feel a " How do I remove the headlight switch rod" question coming on.) All you have to do is to tie the #4 and #7 ( purple to brown ) wire together at the switch and it works... I did it to mine in about 5 mins... Dennis
All you have to do is to tie the #4 and #7 ( purple to brown ) wire together at the switch and it works... I did it to mine in about 5 mins... Yes, but doesnt this turn the headlights on when you only pull the switch out to the parking light position also? I took the headlight switch apart and was thinking of welding a little add-on piece to the contact on the little slider so it would continue to power the parking lights when the headlights are on. If the headlights dont come on in the parking position with yourt way I'll do that instead... '66 C10 Fleetside LWB 355/350
>All you have to do is to tie the #4 and #7 ( purple to >brown ) wire together at the switch and it works... I did it >to mine in about 5 mins... > >Yes, but doesnt this turn the headlights on when you only >pull the switch out to the parking light position also? I >took the headlight switch apart and was thinking of welding >a little add-on piece to the contact on the little slider so >it would continue to power the parking lights when the >headlights are on. If the headlights dont come on in the >parking position with yourt way I'll do that instead... > >'66 C10 Fleetside LWB 355/350 No, The brown wire is the tail light circut. So the front parking lights are now on the same circuit as the rear lights which come on when the switch is in the parking light position. All I did with mine was to remove the purple and insert it into the the brown connector. No splicing required. Dennis ( sorry for the delay. My firewall was preventing me from posting. Got it fixed now)
Okay, got the rear tail light harness on and NOPE still getting just passanger turn lamp to work and also noticed that the brake lights arnt working either. got a little volt tester and connected it to the plug point on the firewall and found that the driver turn lamp is working there but not at the other end on the middle harness so i will be replacing that one (the one that goes down the frame under the truck). Also tested the brake lights at the firewall pluge and that doesnt work at all (in either plug). I am thinking that it could be the switch on the brake pedel or (hopefully not) the main under dash harness (cant afford that one at this time). If there is anything else that you can think of let me know. dvalentine is the god of this forum
[updated:LAST EDITED ON Sep-08-03 AT 08:15 AM (CST)]Check the steering wheel harness connector, if there is a loose wire in it, your brake lights may not work. Here is the under dash schematic in case you need it: evers.homelinux.org/images/66-under-dash-wiring.gif And here is the tail light schematic: evers.homelinux.org/images/66-rear-light-wiring.gif '66 C10 Fleetside LWB 355/350
I have to agree. With no brake lights it's starting to sound like the column harness. As for the God thing?? You are too kind... Now get outta here..
ok update time: i finnally got the front rear tail light harness on the truck. the one that connects to the firewall back to the light harness in the way back. This fixed the flashers...all four blinking like crazy now. But (and you knew there was a but) the brake lights still dont work. I also noticed the the rear nightlights dont work. front headlights work pretty good (will be replacing that harness soon). I have the switch for the break pedle but havent replaced it yet. I am still having problems with finding the switch on my truck. Any ideas on the switch/break lights or the nightime running rear running lights? At least the flashers are working great now though
The break light switch can be found right on the bottom of the steering column. It should have a red wire and a white wire. When the brake is pressed it opens the circuit. An eady way to check to see if current is being passed, is to connect the wires to the switch before you install the switch. Just let it hang there, then you can walk around and see if you lights are working. If they still are not, get a tester and point in to the white wire to see if there is current. Then do the same thing all the way up to the column and underneath. If you don't have contact then remove the steering wheel and make sure you have the contact on the switch. Bobby G.
Hi I know this is a old post but I'm hoping I can still get some assistance with an issue I'm having. I have a 63 c10 short bed that has a late 70s to early 80s steering column in it, that issue that I am having is that the front signal lights come on when I hit the brake. I have tried crossing and 're directing the wires coming out of the column but is doesn't seem to correct it. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.