Key switch

Discussion in '1973-1987' started by T-bone, Feb 27, 2012.

  1. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    1986 chevy, battary good, starter good , contacts to starter good. Turn switch and nothing. Chanced switch same thing. Starter will not turn or make any kind of noise. Its like the switch will not engage. I read something about a tumbler. Not sure what that means. Need some advice before I have it pulled to the shop and spend a lot of money.
     
  2. nerfherder78

    nerfherder78 Member

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    Did it start before you replaced the switch?

    The tumbler is the ignition cylinder, where you put the key in. Its operates the ignition switch located farther down the steering column by a rod. If the rod isn't in the right spot on the switch or if the switch is too far out of position it won't power the starter solenoid.

    Are you getting power to the cab? Another common failure point are the fusible links, located on the wires going from the starter to the cab. When these fail you typically lose all power to the cab; although very rarely when they fail they allow just enough power to operate a few lights or accessories. If you are getting power to the cab, there is also one going from the ignition switch back to the solenoid.
     
  3. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    No it would not start before the change. Yes the power was getting to the dash and all. But I went to pulling out all fuses just to be checking (all ok). Now there is no power to the dash. The interior light and horn works. I can see a square rod move up and down when I turn the key on the left side of colom and it has a "U" shaped notch on it. The steering locking pin will also pop up into place. I have not took the colom apart no futher then were the key switch is. I feel that is what I need to do next??
     
  4. nerfherder78

    nerfherder78 Member

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    1. Before pulling the column apart further, I would check to make sure the ignition rod is moving with the ignition cylinder. If you pull the two panels below the steering column and reach around from the left side you should feel two rods on top of the column (they come out from the outer collar just behind the gauge bezel): one at about the 10/11 o'clock position for the high beams, and another at the 12 o'clock position for the ignition switch. When you turn the key, you should feel the ignition rod slide down towards the firewall.

    If it doesn't move, then you've probably found the culprit, and will need to tear down the upper column.

    If it does move, then the ignition cylinder is fine, and your issue is elsewhere.

    2. You said after checking the fuses that the dash has lost power but the horn and interior light still work, what about the headlights and brake lights? If those don't work, I'd say try running a 10-12 gauge test wire from the positive battery terminal to the junction block on the firewall next to your brake booster, that should bypass most of the fusible links. If power is restored, you have a bad link. If not, at least you can rule that out. There might be more links between that junction block and the fusebox, but to check that you'll probably need a wiring diagram.

    3. The ignition switch might be slightly out of place or the rod may not be engaging the switch properly. If you can get the switch down without unplugging it you can stick a flat screwdriver in the slot for the rod and push it back and forth to see if that works.
     
  5. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    I did as you said , I did not feel but one rod at 10 position. To make sure of that I took off the bezel so I could see better. I see the high beam rod and nothing ealse. Just so I understand, the ignition rod , should I be seeing it at this point? By the way the head lights and all do work.
     
  6. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    update: I have found the ignition rod you told me of. Bouth are more to the left side of the coloum. I have started to take off the upper coloum and seen what looked like a heavy wire but is the other rod. I turned the switch , it had no movement. So I assume something is broken or needs to be reconnected. Thanks to you I now have a better feeling about doing this. If you have more advise pleas keep it comeing and I'll keep asking as I go.
     
  7. Reinovator

    Reinovator Member

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    Did you get this straightened out?:eek:
     
  8. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    not sure if my update got to you so I'll put here . Had troble with the parts stores getting what I need so I ordered on line the replacement ket. The rod that is turned by the key switch is broken so I'm on hold for a few days. I do have a question about the pice that makes contact with the high beam rod. What is the best way to get it back togather so that it lines up with the rod? I understand how it should line up but looks a little tricky.
     
  9. T-bone

    T-bone Member

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    Got everything in and back togather. Took a few trys but its done and running. Drove it down the road , lights all good , inside and out. Switch truns over good. Just one thing. Can't turn the switch back toward the driver for the auxiliary switch. For now I'm good but later I'll try figure that one out.
     

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