swap torquetube to get more top end speed

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by dan cocomise, Apr 28, 2012.

  1. dan cocomise

    dan cocomise Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Messages:
    56
    what is my best option, lowest cost this 1/2 ton 235 is at best average.first swap 4.11 to 3.50 ring and pinion, bring the tube and rearend to shop.i looked at torque tube overhall manule it looks not to bad and i have acsess to the tools but getting the right gear mesh is not ez corect.second option get a junk yard 3.50 rearend and trans,get driveshaft cut to fit.third option is there a 3.50 carier that will fit my axle housing get a trans and driveshaft and welled the pivit bracket.i will take my time.thaks
     
  2. Flashlight

    Flashlight Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
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    Location:
    Greeneville, Tennessee....Looking out over the Smo
    I've done both...less cost and headaches, do away with closed tube, get a good open rear-end and the possibilities are endless. Put on a Saginaw 4 speed (Bolt-in) and have a drive shaft cut or made. Four speed Saginaws are cheap and findable....$200. Rear-ends..$50 and up.

    Those gear changes for closed shaft are $400++ alone! You lose numerous oil leak points by going open shaft. Like I said I have both. Been there, done that!
     
  3. classic.george

    classic.george Member

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    Apr 28, 2012
    Messages:
    7
    if your looking to get the max "MPH" out of your truck.. my opinion would be being get a saginaw 4 speed out of camaro or something put that on.. get a 2nd series rear end and put that under the truck.. it will now be open driveline.. but the reason why the torque tube was so successful is because it wont let the wheels walk in front of another. the new corvettes have gone back to the torque tube.. but anyways get that 2nd series rear end.. call patricks and get their 3.38 gear ratio and it will allow you go increase 15% in speed and decrease 15% on rmp's at a high speed.. my .02
     
  4. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    'splain that to me Lucy?
     
  5. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Mar 30, 2005
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    Location:
    Plano US
    Absolute cheapest option is to get a driveshaft from a 3/4 ton since they are enclosed in the front and bolt up to your present transmission. The driveshaft is then an open type from the hanger bearing back to an open rear end. GM, bless they're little heart, has an opening between the gussets on the crossmember just in front of the E-brake cross shaft which the hanger bearing exactly fits into. The last step is to scout up a 61" <> wide rear end and weld perches on it from our host(?) or Chassis Engineering that have the spring center bolt hole moved ahead 1.5" so the open rear has the wheels centered in the fender opening. The Camaro/Firebird rear is the right width and geared way down into the 2's but is also 5 lug. Haven't used one yet but they say a Colorado/Canyon rear is the right width, shallow gearing available, and 6 lug. I know a 2004 has drum brakes so existing brake line plumbing could be retained.
     

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