... recommendations as to where it is best to attach the lift chains. This is my first engine removal so I thought I'd ask the experts. Haasman
What?! Really? Wow ... Oh no! ... Of course I know that .... this all part of restoring process. I am going down to the frame. Haasman
I had the head off and just put back in two head bolts at opposite corners of the block. I think if you took off the valve cover you could do the same thing just on top of the head. I also had some problems trying to pull the transmission with the engine. I ended up unbolting the bellhousing from the transmission and pulling just that.
Engine lifting! This is a job for 2 persons one stearing/balancing and the other carfully lifting. Using an elephant lifter is great . Important to connect your chains at all the 4 corners coming together in the senter over your engine. Easy peasy
Thanks for the replies- any particular bolt locations better than others? Head bolts (after taking the valve cover off?) Haasman
Here's how the shop manual suggests it be done. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0621.htm Hope this helps. Ken
I used the right rear head and left front bolts on the head as I had a wide lifting bar. You should have no problems lifting it with transmission attached since you have the bodywork removed.
Engine lifting Coilover (Evan) had a great old post on how he does it using a unique device of his own design that is very easy to make. It lifts the engine in a balanced fashion safely and securely. I found the engine install to be very difficult and I had the complete nose off. The engine with the manifolds on is lopsided and it was tough. Search Evan's old posts and you will find it. It may help you out Andy
Pulled the rockers and shaft, attached half the lift chains to the head bolts and two to the upper trans bolts. Came out quite easily and seems well balanced. Not bad for a first-timer. Haasman
Here's the lift bar Chiro mentioned that we use on all the inline engines. The two long bolts are grade 8 and replace the front and rear rocker stand bolt. If you look closely where the bolts run through the bar you can see the 7/16 nuts welded to the underside of the lift bar, these are to space the bar up so it doesn't crunch down on the rocker arms. The series of holes allow the chain to be moved forward or back to obtain balance. When an engine or engine/trans is hung from just a single chain you can twist it, tilt it, roll it, or combine any of these functions at once. Once a chain is attached in two or more places you nearly lose all this and have to manhandle it to change positions. Also much easier than cranking on an engine leveler. You CAN put an engine in (or pull out) with this set up by first using a forward hole to set it down vertically till it rests on whatever and then move the chain to the balance point and raise into position. The fan and w/p need to be off and it's close between the crank balancer/pulley and core support but have done some this way. Much better to pull the front clip so engine and trans can be removed or installed as a unit.
