Now that summer has officially started .... Cleaning up the springs. Any suggestions/ do's and don't regarding painting etc? Is there a better paint/protective coating for them such as POR15? Or is a good paint best? Oh, is it a good idea to use a primer first? Haasman
I completely disassembled all the spring packs, then blasted all of the pieces, then painted them with KBS Coatings' Rust Seal paint... no primer. This product is very similar to POR15. I'm happy with the results, but I can't testify as to the longevity of the paint job... it's been done only a couple months and the truck isn't built yet. Damon
Wow a lot of work. Aside from removing the through bolt, did you have to pry the spring locking pieces apart? Haasman
Wirebrush and clean all you can. Clean with brake cleaner, then I finish up with carb cleaner to get all the residue off. Now use a good spray paint, I like the Krylon proffessional. Spray away. This is on the truck, of course, to make it look nice. If the springs are off, go ahead and dissassemble them and paint individually.
Yes. I had to pry everything apart to separate the leaves. Since the through bolts were also rusted, I also replaced those. A few of the clips were broken, so I had the spring shop replace those as well. Damon
More spring repair questions So after cleaning the front and rear springs (my son has been helping, worked very hard!) I noticed that the eye's bushings were elongated. In order to repair I need to hammer out/press? the inner bushing and then use this bushing (and bolt) as the repair? The other end(s) this piece is hammered out/pressed and replaced with the part from the shackle repair kit I just received? Thank you for your time and sharing your expertise. Very helpful for this AD newbie. Haasman
You've got it right! The large pivot bolt goes through the plain bushing end of the spring and threads into the hanger. Don't lose the four jam nuts for the pivot bolt. Somehow I've managed to lose mine, and they're kinda hard to find to replace them. The other end of the spring, with the threaded bushing, is for the shackle pins. All of the parts are replaceable. The jam nuts may be replaceable, but I've yet to find a supplier. Damon PS. It appears as though the shackle end of your springs have been bent or heated and bent in order to drop the truck some. I'd have reservations about their load carrying capacity if they've been improperly heated. Please be careful in reusing them!
I wouldn't trust my life on those springs even if they were bent properly which I doubt there were, no competent spring shop would let something like that out. Jmo, I would save my bucks and buy a pair of drop springs from Eaton Springs or Posies.
Heated Springs I have to agree , once they're heated , springs become flaccid and un suitable to carry weight ~ either buy now ones or , look in the various Hot Rod builds & go buy the old springs they took out , they'll be pennies and *much* safer . DO NOT buy cheapo springs ! . I did this on my '49 3100 and was rewarded with a pogo stick like front axle . Remember to grease the threaded spring bushings BEFORE you assemble them as well as 1,000 miles after the first drive and a few times each year after then .
So what you guys are seeing is that my truck's springs have most likely been heated by someone who wanted it lowered .... .... that the safe rule of thumb is if heated walk away from them? OK ... so I checked out the Eaton Springs or Posies sites for springs. Very informative. I believe it was the Posies site that one can choose various ride heights such as stock, -1", -2" etc. I am in the middle of my truck all apart. I have no idea what its ride height is/was. I liked its ride height before I took it apart. Any suggestions. BTW, I sincerely appreciate everyone's support on this. Haasman
I've see where some guys have taken the top spring with the eye in it and turned it over putting the eye on the bottom then collapsing it back in to the stack. I think it's called reversing the spring but I also think this only works if the eye is offset and not centered.....
Eaton has the ones that can be bought in different heights, and yes heat and springs don't go together. Eatons site even says that if your welding near a spring to protect it from spatter. Go with the three inch drop and use blocks to drop it a little more if desired. Just don't go wild with the blocks because there not really recommended. The taller the block the more leverage your applying to the springs and will get spring wrap. Also get the rearend centering pin on the springs relocated back around three inches to get the housing centered in the fenders. Posies sells a spring that this is already done too it and is a part number 440A. Eaton does not recommend moving it back 3 inches because it makes the vehicle unstable. The say the most to move it is so that it is centered from front to rear. On a stock spring the spring is shorter from the front eye to the pin than the back. One more thing when reversing the eyes you need to rearch the spring by putting it in a press.
Hey Russ, pictures of them would be nice as well as a description as to how they are finished, such as insulation between springs, paint or anti-corrosion finish, etc. Thanks!
1 Hotrod, you think a 3" drop? Have you looked at my truck? I would like to have the same ride height after changing the springs. Here are some pics- I can give you the tire size if that would help... Haasman
Honestly I can't tell you if a 3 inch drop would put you at the same height as the picture your showing, now my opinion would be no it wouldn't. I saw the earlier pictures you posted and the differential had blocks on it and the springs bent to get it lowered. I do think that with lowered springs and blocks you will get it real close or right on where you want it. You can also remove a few leafs, removing the leafs won't raise or lower the rear end housing but will make the spring squat a little.
I can show you both Posies and Eatons. Both are quality springs and come with the bushings in the eyes. Eatons first...they are raw steel and look like they have been tumbled with nylon sliders between the springs, the ends are rounded off and tapered. The clamps are thick steel and riveted to the spring. One end has to be ground on to get into the frame mount. I use a 4 1/2 grinder with a blending wheel. Poises....raw steel no finishing, nylon sliders between the leafs. The ends are square and no tapering and the clamps are just banding material. You have to grind the ends as well.
These are helpful photos. I didn't realize they came with built-in nylon slider blocks, very cool. You say that either company's spring ends have to be ground down to fit the spring shackles? How much? BTW, those are some serious "saw horses"! You could set your whole truck on them! I appreciate you opinions on which springs. I am now in a quandary .... unsure which springs to go for .... maybe best to reassemble with the old springs, take some measurements and photos and start from there. Haasman
Springs Eaton gets the nod always because they're higher quality . Be aware the nylon sliders improve the ride a great deal . Don't get lost in killer low just to look cool else you'll make it not fun to drive and enjoy .
