Yes, I have. The problem is you have to change the spring parches too because the original ones are hinged.....Big Tim
1954 rear end Hi. I also have an earlier rear end housing - in my 1954 1/2 ton. When I got the truck it already had the transmission/driveline/readend replaced. I believe the rearend is from a 1955. The person who did this swap did not change out the 1954 rear end housing...nor remove the pivots, as decribed in the previous post. I can tell this is a problem as my leaf springs are not properly aligned. In looking for options to fix this, I have seen that many parts companies sell rear end conversion kits ror 3" diameter axel tubes. Does anyone know of these kits will work with the original 1954 housing (assuming of course that I grind off the original perches)? Thanks!
I'm just finishing doing this on a 51. We installed a 95 Impala SS rear and it is a GREAT fit. It has rear disc brakes. You will need to cut off any existing mounts from most any axle as none wil bolt directly up. Order 3" tube saddle mounts from Speedway or Summit. Sit the bracket on the alignment pins, sit the axle on the saddles, center the rear, raise the snout to align pinion angle, then tack weld the saddles. Remove the axle and fully weld the saddles, now re install and ubolt down the axle. Now run brake lines, bleed and drive.
Thanks! I have now included some pictures....The first two show the terrible job the previous owner did in trying to convert this house to work with an open drive train. The last picture shows the open style drive shaft. I am hoping i can keep this 1954 axle housing by removing the perches and installing an after market conversion kit (weld on new axle perches). Has anyone else done this with a 1947-54 housing?
Rear end drive train. Your right , this is dangerous driving with as nothing is hooked up properly. Follow Coilovers or OlChebbys instructions or look at preveous threads written here at the forum about the subject.There is a lot of information mentioning the minor conversion suggestions i have written about aswell.
Yeek ! Yet another ' Farm Job '...... . Anyways , drop that rear end out and carefully grind off the pivots , follow Russ' instructions to the 'T' ~ the pinion flange angle is critical , : it must be 3 degrees when measured vertically , use a cheapo magnetic bubble gauge from Harbor Freight or the local pawn shop . Take your time setting it all up then tack the supports in , drop the rear end again and make good , deep penetration welds . Yes , it's time consuming to do it right but once done , you'll have a nice truck to drive .
