Can't figure out what the heck is wrong with my truck. Prior to relocating to the East Coast, I was having issues with it seeming down as though it were starving for fuel. Thought it was the TPI system and I got tired of it and switched back to a carb. Still had the same issues, switched back to the TPI and the truck sat for several months during my relocation. Recently took it out for a drive and still having the same issues. When it dies, it's as though the alternator (new) is not charging. I had the alternator tested last night and it checked out fine so I was wondering if perhaps is wired wrong. I have the main wire from the battery hooked to the stud, of the three wires from the pig tail, the red is also hooked to the stud, brown to the guage & black capped. Is this correct? Any other thoughts as to what the issue may be??? A guy at the parts store also suggested I was testing it the wrong way. My father taught me years ago to disconnect the battery cable while the engine was running to test the alternator, if it still runs it's good but this guy says that was true for older carbed motors but since I'm running TPI, it doesn't work because disconnecting the cable doesn't provide enough juice for the computer. Anybody else heard of this?
Think I found my problem!! The alternator wire had shorted out at the starter. A quick splice and power's restored. Hope to road test this later in the week.
Barnyard Alternator Testing FWIW ; Disconecing the negative cable with the engine running just above idle speed is always as 100 % positive dynamic alternator test . HOWEVER !if you touch that same cable to the battery again , you'll " spike " (drive to max charge) the alternator and most times , run it . So , to do this field test you need a helper who'll shut the engine off after you disconnect the negative cable and the engine remains running . It's nice you found that Open , I always like the simple solutions .
So I can disconnect the cable as long as I don't try to reconnect it while it's running without frying the computer?
Robert, Unless you got some kind of Mega Mega Mega Zillion Joule surge protector for DC, kill the engine first.
Field Charge Testing YES . Just be aware that if you get ' clever ' and wrap the negative cable in a rag or empty Cheetos Bag then run around to the ignition switch , those pesky , ever present Gremlins will shake it so the cable end *just* skitters across the top of the battery and touches the post 1/10th of a second before you're able to say " Oh , SHI.... " . You have been warned ! . by the fool who yanked the wrong relay on a running '91 Toyota Camry yesterday , I meant to yank the # 2 AC fan relay but instead yanked out the EFI Power Relay , imagine my surprise when the engine quit Lucky for me , these old Toylettas are well made , no harm , no foul , off it went late last night for head works , no way am I going to dip into a 24 valve DOHC V-6 F.I. monstrosity .
Um ; That was a warning not a suggestion . I gotta be very careful about sharing old trade secrets here..... .
