The kids and I are really loving everything about our old '55.1 truck EXCEPT our inability to take it on long hauls due to it's limited top speed. The old '57 235 practically screams at 55 MPH and I just can't seem to see taking it for a long time at that speed. It's a '54 rear, so it has a torque tube. Also, try as I may, I'm having a devil of a time getting the front brakes NOT to pull (severely) even though the entire braking system has been rebuilt. I'm no stranger to working on drum brakes, but these things are giving me fits! So... I've been thinking of how to make braking safer (since I've got two kids driving now), and how to make the truck keep up with the highway speeds for extended periods WITHOUT causing a meltdown in the engine. ALSO, to make it all the more difficult I want to do this without SEVERELY altering the truck. I do not want to put a V8 in it. I do not want to put a "front clip" in it, etc. Here's what I'm thinking of doing and I need a little help and advice: I'm thinking of upgrading the front brakes to disc. Who makes the best kit? I know Bill Hanlon had something to say about this a while ago, but I don't remember what it was. This would also entail changing out the master cylinder. Which master do I need and how to install and plumb it? I'm going to leave the rear drums the way they are. I really, really, really want to be able to do highway speeds all day long so I need to know if the Patrick's 3.55:1 rear end gear kit is worth the money and if I'm going to be able to achieve this goal using my stock tranny and 235 engine, because they parts and labor to get this job done is typically going to cost me about $1200.00 complete. Or...what are the other options short of changing out the entire closed drivetrain system? I have an SM420 4 speed tranny now. I know I can change out the rear of the tranny to an open driveshaft type and put another rear end in the truck, but which rear and what ratio will work best? And then, what about the rear brakes on the new open drive rear end? How to plumb it and make the e-brake work and all that? I'm realtively happy with the bumpity-bump suspension, so I don't need to change out any of the steering or suspension components. I have an original sway bar up front, so that is better than NOT having it. Any suggestions and/or reports of what you may have done and how it worked out? Thanks, Andy
Hi Andy, I live out of town 20 mi and need to use the highway to get around to I installed the Patricks' gears and am very pleased. The only drawback, other than cost which you are pretty close on, is my 3 speed doesn't have the low end 1st gear pull that it used to have. I'm also very interested in a future upgrade addition of front disc brakes to improve stopping and look forward to see what gets proposed here.
So Larry, You're running a 235 with the stock 3 speed, right? How fast can you go on the highway with the Patrick's gear set and what RPM is it running at? I'm wondering how my granny 4-speed first gear is going to do once the 3.55:1 gears are in. Right now, 1st gear is about as useless as...(well, you can fill in your own metaphor here). Thanks, Andy
355/1 should be plenty for any safe hiighway travel. I have 342/1 and love it, I alson have open shafts, but the highway travel is great, I keep a long distance between me and the other cars on the freeways here because of the hack brakes.
The 3:55 ring & pinion conversion will net you speeds of 65-70 on the highway. You will need to also install an earlier carrier assembly from a 1947-1953 on your 54 torque tube for these gears to work. Best price around on the 3:55 ring & pinion kit is here.... http://vcca.org/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/252251/NEW_3_55_Ring_Pinion_1940_1953#Post252251
different carrier Patrick says that I MAY have to use the earlier carrier, but maybe NOT as it depends upon which one was originally installed in my truck. I guess I'm going to find out soon enough.
Patrick ring and pinion His catalog says $450.00. don't know if they are in stock. I spoke to him a long while ago about whether or not the carrier needed to be switched. I think you already know where I'm going to buy them when I decide to take the plunge. Andy
Highway Speed Remember too that the O.D. of your rear tires makes a big difference . 32" seems to be the <magic> size .
3.55 : 1 Rearend and transmission. Hey, there I should like to know how this stock 47-53 carrier looks like if some one could be so kind to it show with a photo here ? I use the Patricks setup 3.55:1 and the converted saginaw 4 speed (Patricks) wich makes a 65-70 miles an hour on the highway. Not shore if the Saginaw 3 gear or the granny 4 gear with this ratio rearend would give the same outcome in speed as i havent tryed this combo! Martinius.
I have a friend who's 3rd gear went out in his 53. I may be doing the s10 5 speed/4x4 s10 rear conversion for him. If so, I will do a tech article on it. We recently put a s10 5 speed behid a flathead in a 49 Ferd, made a HUGE difference in drivability.
Mine is a 1 ton this unit came out of a 78 1 ton and modified for the AD with new axles. The highway speed is great, towing a trailer is not so great but I do not tow a trailer every time I go for a drive.
Correct Highway speed is no longer a problem. I don't have a tach, but the engine "cruises" along at 65 mph with passing speed still avaialble. I find that the wind noise is more of an issue than the engine. I have used some acoustic matt to quiet the motor compartment noise, but the a/c (windows rolled down) at highway speed is fierce competitiin for the radio.
Gears and install kit This may sound like a dumb question but if I purchase the gear and pinion, do I also need to buy the installation kit like our sponsor sells?
FWIW - My rebuilder said he appreciated having the install kit, but it sounded like he had done it previously without.
Rear end cardan ! Easyest way is to work with the rearend is to remove the wheelaxle from underneath the truck.Then tap of the old oil,take the parts in the cardan out your self, then look close at its condition and decide whatever parts besides the new 3.55:1 pinion and gear you will be needing. Years of use gives normally wear and other parts are very often required , the kit your mentioning included. Then reverse your install proses and have a mechanic to calibrate the distance in between the gear and pinion before having it back in position again. Hope this advice helps you out Martinius.
Carrier Assembly I'm also going to upgrade my ring and pinion to the 3:55.1. I'm having a problem finding the 1947-1953 carrier assembly that I need. If anybody has one or knows where I can get one please let me know.Also if I find this, what would a fair price be? Sorry, I didn't mean to highjack your thread. Thanks, Jerry
Andy, First thing let's make it stop in a nice straight line. Starting with the easiest, swap the drums from side to side and test. Now do the same with the shoes. If it still pulls in the same direction as before go on ebay and get a one or two thousand psi pressure gauge for less than fifteen bucks. Make an adaptor to go from the gauge threads (probably 1/4 male npt) to the end of the rubber brake hose. Have one of the kids, same one for both sides, stomp the pedal as hard as they can and take a pressure reading. Repeat on other side. If the line being open has caused a spongy pedal just loosen the gauge at the adaptor while holding pressure on the pedal and let any air escape around the threads. You now have absolutely tested everything but the wheel cylinders themselves. They make frame mount power drum brake boosters which give one great brakes at a fraction of the cost of a conversion. Unless a dual chamber master cylinder is specifically requested I use a single chamber one and have no of very little plumbing changes to make.
I found a 48 rearend on craigslist and bought it. I took it apart and have one question. Is this the "carrier assembly".The part that the ring gear is attached too?
